Some Questions about the Design of Traditional Class C's

[I-10bound]

Hi You all,
Another dreamer here, I want to buy a short class C motorhome in about a year if finances permit it. I want a very traditional one such as the Minnie Winnie 22R, a Freelander 19CB, or maybe that new Freelander 20CB that's built on a Ford Transit platform. Used but not old, 2013 or up. I like these models because they're small, but still have 3 separate beds if I travel with my brother and my mom.

In the meantime, I've been doing much research on these models, and motorhomes in general. I came upon this article that kind of scared me:
The RV Industry's Dirty Litle Secret: Quality

The author paints a very pessimistic picture, that the whole RV industry is a scam. Salesmen peddling shiny boxes on wheels, but the basic design is flawed an that they all will leak in short time.

However, the article must be old, because it's all about luan construction and rubber coated roofs. Todays RV's use composite walls such as Azdel, and fiberglass rooftops. So hopefully things aren't as bad as the article makes it out to be. I know about the BornFree brand of motorhomes, but they're just too dang expensive.

So now a just have a few specific questions about the design of class C's. First of all, do they have some kind of metal framework underneath that holds the whole thing together? Winnebago is the only one who points out their "SuperStructure".



I was happy to see that their metal framework extends into the cabover sleeper. Do the other makes have a similar framework? It would seem dangerous to me, to have the entire cabover portion constructed of wood beams and studs. If the cabover was to suffer some rot, and somebody decides to sleep up there while the RV is in motion, heck the whole thing could break off and the passenger goes hitting the pavement!

Next thing I was curious about are these fiberglass rooftops. In the case of say a Minnie Winnie, is it like a one piece "hard cap" similar to a Chinook or Scamp trailer? Or is it a fiberglass layer that is added the existing roof structure?

And the last question is about these composite panels they're using in place of luan. Is it true it resists delamination? I'd be taking real good care of this motorhome, keeping it covered when not in use. Plus I live in Phoenix, AZ and it's dry most of the year here. Still it's nice to know that if a small leak did occur, it wouldn't be the end of my RV.

That's all, I appreciate the help. These questions I just could not find answers to online.

[I-10bound]

Thanks you all for the replies, I got something out of everybody's input. I would of responded earlier, but their server kept timing out on me.

And Ron, what a gorgeous coach you own. You must drive down the highway with pride!

[ron_dittmer]

Some people exposed to RVs for the first time, don't realize that the house portion of a motor home is not built to the same standards as the chassis and other regular automobiles. They are often disappointed when they learn the reality of it all.

[fireflock]

The RV industry has a problem that I've seen in a few other industries as well. Most of their new sales are made to people who are brand new to RVing and don't know much about what they are buying.

The perverse result of this is that the industry builds coaches that appeal to non-RVers on the sales lot. Too many are poorly designed, poorly built, and overloaded from the start.

There are a few niche manufacturers who do things differently. Most new RV shoppers think their products are overpriced and undersized.

[toedtoes]

Also, the 22R has a longer dinette (74 inches versus 69 in the 25B) - those 5 inches could be a big deal for a sleeper.

[ron_dittmer]

tjfogelberg wrote:
The smaller Winnebagos are good choices. 22R and 25B both VG. Counter space is very limited in the 25B but you could put inserts over 1 or both sinks and also get a folding cover for the stovetop. The 3 sleeping areas (actually 4) in the 25 B are amazing for an RV only 27' long. Read all the good info here carefully and you'll do fine.

For the OP with 3 adults traveling, each wanting their own bed, I favor the 22R. With the shorter 23'-10" over-all length, they should be able to get by without a tow vehicle. The only issue with the 22R are the water/waste/propane capacities. Three adults will need to take navy showers to make it work without hook-ups. And so little a propane tank would be an issue if doing high altitude and Canadian camping where the furnace is used often at night. Also, it is not clear how much cabinet space there is for 3 adults worth of clothing and such.

But still a very nice floor plan.

For Phoenix AZ, be sure to get a very light colored exterior to reduce radiant heat.

[tjfogelberg]

The smaller Winnebagos are good choices. 22R and 25B both VG. Counter space is very limited in the 25B but you could put inserts over 1 or both sinks and also get a folding cover for the stovetop. The 3 sleeping areas (actually 4) in the 25 B are amazing for an RV only 27' long. Read all the good info here carefully and you'll do fine.

[Campfire_Time]

Here's the best comment in the OP's link: The only exception to this rule are the ultra-high-end million-dollar "rock star" buses - but few can afford those (even the people who buy them).

And quite frankly, that's the answer. If all RVs had the quality we expect, few of us could afford to have them. So they make so that we can afford them. And we have to live with that or not have an RV.

And like your house or car, they need maintenance. It's not hard to check the seals twice a year. It's not hard to clean the roof membrane and keep it in good condition. Apparently the guy that wrote that article was expecting perfection and a maintenance free experience and now he's bitter that he didn't get either.

One thing I do agree with is comments about fit and finish. Attention to detail, the little things, would make RVs a lot nicer when new.

[midnightsadie]

listen to ron, he,knows his rv.

[toedtoes]

DrewE wrote:
The cabover on any class C is not designed for occupancy while in motion. There are a few reasons for this. First, it is a very vulnerable location in the event of a crash. While crashworthiness is not a strong point of motorhomes in general, the spot exposed at the top of the front with nothing securing one in is worse than pretty much anywhere else in the RV. Second, the framework of a cabover is designed to support the weight of a person when the RV is not bouncing around on the road, but not the much higher dynamic loads that having the weight there would impose when going over a large bump.

I disagree with this comment to a large extent. The weight of a person in the cabover bunk while driving down the road is NOT going to be enough to stress the cabover while going over a large bump. Many many many people have used the cabover for storage and have exceeded the weight of a single person without issue - I have never heard of anyone having the cabover become structurally damaged due to putting weight in it while traveling.

I do agree with the safety issue (although I grew up riding in the cabover of a truck camper) and wouldn't recommend sleeping in it while traveling.

[ron_dittmer]

Better protection over an RV cover in desert heat is a carport with one or two sides to block the worst of the sun and allow the breezes to pass through. But few people have that privilege as an option.

Each region has it's own challenges. Florida adds humidity & rain into the heat, many areas with snow and such. It's hard to accommodate ideal motor home protection.

[obgraham]

Keep in mind also, that living in Phoenix, you are avoiding the issues of water leakage to a great extent, but you are replacing it with the issue of sun and heat. Your rig, inside and out, will get a real baking.

[DrewE]

To answer your specific questions: Every RV is going to have a framework of some sort, either metal or wood. A properly designed wood framework is perfectly acceptable if it is kept from rotting.

The cabover on any class C is not designed for occupancy while in motion. There are a few reasons for this. First, it is a very vulnerable location in the event of a crash. While crashworthiness is not a strong point of motorhomes in general, the spot exposed at the top of the front with nothing securing one in is worse than pretty much anywhere else in the RV. Second, the framework of a cabover is designed to support the weight of a person when the RV is not bouncing around on the road, but not the much higher dynamic loads that having the weight there would impose when going over a large bump.

Most fiberglass roofs are basically flat sheets of fibreglass set over a substrate of plywood, basically like a rubber or TPO roof made of fiberglass. The details of how this is attached to the tops of the walls vary somewhat. Very few class C's have a molded fiberglass roof like a Scamp trailer.

A rubber roof can last many years with proper maintenance (far more than ten years in many areas). A TPO roof is more durable still, and fiberglass properly built better yet. Any one will require proper maintenance and keeping up with the sealant aging at seams and penetrations.

(You aren't going to find any pre-2013 Transit based RVs in the US, of course, since Ford didn't sell the vehicle here until then.)

[DutchmenSport]

I just saw ron.dittmer post above. I think this is very good information.

I would like to challenge you to do 2 things:

1. Stop focusing on negatives about RV's and looking for the bad things about them.

2. Take ron.dittmer information above and start looking for the positives in each brand / model you are considering. (what do they have to offer that a different brand does not). Then, look for the "good" things in them, and then look for the same good things that are a bit "better" in the next make / model. By focusing on the positives, and looking for the "good, the better, and the best" you'll begin to take on new appreciation for what you are contemplating in purchasing that CLASS-C. Abandon that mind-set of bad,worse, and worst or you'll forever be nit-picking any brand / model you finally settle on and never truly be happy with it.

[toedtoes]

I agree with Dutchmen Sport - it seems like the author of that blog has made a few observations (such as the hunting trailers) and has used that to bash all RVs.

Yes, RVs need to be maintained. You need to check for leaks after the first rain of the season and preferably after every heavy rain thereafter. At the first sign of a leak, you fix it. You don't let it leak for months and then claim the RV was "defective" because there was water pooling up under the mattress.

As ron.dittmer points out, there are various grades of build that can reduce your potential for issues. But even if you go with the least of them, you can have years of happy RVing by just being observant and keeping up with general maintenance. Re-caulking seams and windows and vents on a regular basis (yearly, etc., depending on the individual needs) can prevent most of those problems. And a single incident of a leak is not going to destroy the RV - that's why checking after the first and any heavy rains is important, because you can stop a leak before it has a chance to turn into mold and rot.