Equal-i-zer hitch choices

[JSDaly]

I am in the market for an WD hitch and pretty much have my heart set on the EQlizer. I have a question regarding the choices.

I can use the 6000 lb rated version of the hitch and I can buy it for around 600 bucks. But there are 1000 and 1200 lb versions available for less with shipping.

Is there any reason besides the additional tongue weight, which my application can handle, that I shouldn't buy the heavier hitch?

[JSDaly]

Ron3rd wrote:
Interesting that the EQ's with the lighter bars would cost more. BTW, EQ has a calculator on their site that will help you with bar selection.

kvangil wrote:
If the ones with heavier bars are cheaper, go ahead and go with the cheaper setup. Your tongue weight being 320 lbs, add propane, battery, and cargo in the back of your TV, the 600# bars may be cutting it closer than you think. FWIW, I use a 1400/14000 Equal-I-Zer setup with a 5000# gross weight trailer and have never had any issues; the ride is fine too...

Ron3rd: Yeah, I thought it was odd too. I suspect it's because there are more of the heavier hitches out there so the price isn't as flexible.

kvangil: Good to know. I have ordered the 90-00-01000. So we will see.

[kvangil]

If the ones with heavier bars are cheaper, go ahead and go with the cheaper setup. Your tongue weight being 320 lbs, add propane, battery, and cargo in the back of your TV, the 600# bars may be cutting it closer than you think. FWIW, I use a 1400/14000 Equal-I-Zer setup with a 5000# gross weight trailer and have never had any issues; the ride is fine too...

[Ron3rd]

JSDaly wrote:

Ron3rd wrote:
You mentioned $600. I bought by EQ hitch wtih 1200 lb bars off Amazon for about $485.00 with free shipping.

Yeah, the 1000 and 1200's can be found cheaper. The price on the 600's tend to be in the middle 500's with shipping. I asked this in the OP. I saw the price you stated and was wondering if the heavier hitch would work in my application. 🙂

Interesting that the EQ's with the lighter bars would cost more. BTW, EQ has a calculator on their site that will help you with bar selection.

[JSDaly]

Ron3rd wrote:
You mentioned $600. I bought by EQ hitch wtih 1200 lb bars off Amazon for about $485.00 with free shipping.

Yeah, the 1000 and 1200's can be found cheaper. The price on the 600's tend to be in the middle 500's with shipping. I asked this in the OP. I saw the price you stated and was wondering if the heavier hitch would work in my application. 🙂

[Ron3rd]

You mentioned $600. I bought by EQ hitch wtih 1200 lb bars off Amazon for about $485.00 with free shipping.

[Drew_K]

Call Equalizer. I called them once because I wasn't sure which model to buy, and the guy I spoke with was very helpful and knowledgeable. Everyone posting here is trying to help and very well may be right, but I'd add the manufacturer's opinion into the equation and then decide what to buy.

[APT]

The 1000 pound bar EQ is designed for 400-1000 pounds of TW. Either 600 or 1000 pound bars seem appropriate.

[JSDaly]

Well, the GVWR of the trailer is 5500 (3K dry). I don't intend to load it past 4K . The factory tongue weight is 320. Do I add the propane bottles and batteries? they are directly on the tongue. Plus the Equalizer hitch (32#). And I have 2700lbs over the rear axle on my TV, nothing packed behind the rear axel. So I think the 6k is the correct choice.

[atreis]

I use the 10,000 lb version with 1,000 lb bars. Why? Because it was the smallest they had available at the time. (The 6,000 lb version hadn't come out yet.) It works fine, even for my lightweight trailer. It might ride better, or something, with the 6,000 lb version - I wouldn't know having never tried it - but it's not too much just more than needed.

[JSDaly]

geotex1 wrote:
The real question is how close us your trailer to the 6000#? If you are within a few hundred pounds, move up to the 10000#. Why? Because it'll handle your current trailer and then be there for you when you upgrade to your next, certainly larger, trailer. A lot of folks not familiar with the way the Equal-i-zer actually works always throw out a concern over having too heavy of bars but I can assure you there's greater margin than a traditional WDH setup. Yes, I do run the Equal-i-zer and know a little something about the mechanics of its operation. That said, if you only have a 4000# camper, certainly 10000# or larger will be too much.

Yes, I believe this is the correct question. Thanks. I'll get the 6k hitch. I was trying to save a couple bucks.

[geotex1]

The real question is how close us your trailer to the 6000#? If you are within a few hundred pounds, move up to the 10000#. Why? Because it'll handle your current trailer and then be there for you when you upgrade to your next, certainly larger, trailer. A lot of folks not familiar with the way the Equal-i-zer actually works always throw out a concern over having too heavy of bars but I can assure you there's greater margin than a traditional WDH setup. Yes, I do run the Equal-i-zer and know a little something about the mechanics of its operation. That said, if you only have a 4000# camper, certainly 10000# or larger will be too much.

[downtheroad]

Get the bars that best handle your loaded tongue weight. (around 13% of your trailer's GVWR is a good start) Getting bars that are too heavy is not recommended and will also make your set up ride rougher.

[JSDaly]

When I say my application can handle, I mean that I have enough weight available on the tongue and rear axle to handle the additional weight of the the heavier hitches.