Mountain Towing Advice

[mighty7sd]

I live in Kansas and am dreaming of taking our 5er out to Colorado.

The 5er is 35' and I drive a 3/4 ton, 6.0L Gasser. I just scaled the rig (~17K lbs) and I'm almost exactly at my truck GVWR fully loaded, though I'm still 500 lb under my GCWR and Rear GAWR. Basically, I can't get any heavier...though I may as my little kids get bigger.

Even on rolling hills in KS I feel like I'm struggling to accelerate, and I know I can only dream of a 3500 Diesel with exhaust brake!

What is everyone's experience towing in the mountains at your weight limits with a gasser? Is it not worth it? Can it be done if you can stomach dirty looks from passersby (or those that pile up behind you)? Is it no big deal? Should I just plan on camping at the base of mountains and not traversing them? Thanks everyone!

[KD4UPL]

Understand that your engine needs to rev to go up hill; 4,000, 5,000, or higher RPMs are normal. The engine is designed to run that way.
Use the tow/haul mode on your transmission all the time. When desending a grade be in low gears that allow you to not need the brakes very much. Again, the engine will be turning a lot of RPMs as you descend a grade in a low gear. This is normal.
If your truck is running hot, turning on the cab heat will help. It sounds counter intuitive but it works. It essentially give the engine heat somewhere else to go.

[hornet28]

Depending on the grade down you may want to drop to an even lower gear than it took for going up. If you use the gears it will save even more on your brakes. Can't tell you how many times I've been behind someone who didn't know enough not to ride the brakes. I'll tell you the sight and smell of brakes smoking isn't good. One place I've seen that more than once is 89A from Prescott to Cottonwood through Jerome

[K_Charles]

Our 33ft TT excursion was around 16,500 lbs and did fine in Colorado. The V10 would scream from time to time but could maintain a good speed. We even passed a few 5th wheels that were too big for the diesel pickups pulling them. You won't be the only one not speeding.
As said above, go down in the same gear the truck would use going up and go down slow.

[Bipeflier]

Old truckers saying, "DON'T GO DOWN A HILL IN A GEAR HIGHER THAN YOU CAN PULL GOING UP".

You can't go too slow going down.

[romore]

You recognize you are pushing your limits, you need to drive accordingly and be aware of what is happening around you. When climbing keep your speed down to avoid overheating, turn on your hazards if going appreciably slower than the rest of the traffic and stay in the right lane. On two lane use turnouts to allow traffic to go by and smile at the salutes you will inevitably receive.
Downgrades require special consideration. Slow at he top and use the tow/haul. On steep grades drop a gear and again use the hazards to warn drivers behind you, if speed starts to climb snub the brakes firmly then get off the pedal. DON'T ride or pump them. Also, consult the map and plan fuel stops, they will be frequent.

[Lwiddis]

"What is everyone's experience towing in the mountains at your weight limits with a gasser?"

There are hills in our West and then there are HILLS. By researching your route, taking Interstates where possble for the bigger climbs (multiple lanes) I believe you will have enough power. BenK's comments are valid about safety. Yes, visiting the West is worth it. Don't just think "Rockies." Think SIERRAS too.

[BenK]

This is part of the why of ratings...the OEMs design to and test to their specifications that list the max weights at the worst conditions (ambient temps/humidty/etc, max incline going up and down, longevity, ability to manhandle that at max rating, etc, etc)

DO NOT ride the brakes going down. Get into the lowest gear comfortable for at whatever speed you wish to be at. When the speed goes above that speed...brake HARD and scrub off speed till about 10-15 MPH below that speed you wish to be at.

Then let the brake cool while it gains speed...to then brake HARD again.

Repeat till the bottom

You can also change out the diff gear ratios to a higher numberic. Don't know what you have, but going to a higher numeric diff ratio will both increase the rated GCWR and allow more engine braking in low gear.

That will eat into MPG, but IMHO, MPG is NOT of real concern vs safety/longevity/etc