Requesting Specific Advice

[wolf_rver]

Good Evening,

I have been researching and researching and would like to see if anyone can chime in on my specific scenario.

Background... I have previously owned a Rockwood Roo 183 and began towing it with a V-6 Nissan Pathfinder... after a few unnerving trips and worrying about my truck falling apart (on CT hills nonetheless) we upgraded to an 06 Suburban. The experience was night and day.

We sold the trailer in 2011 and have since upgraded to an 08 suburban.

We are looking to get back into camping within the next year or so, and would like to be able to plan accordingly. For instance, if we need a new TV, we want to be able to financially plan for it ahead of time. We really like the layout and look of the Jayco White Hawk 23 mbh The specs on it state a dry weight of 4680lbs and a dry hitch weight of 655lbs. DW and I have both determined that this could very easily be the camper we purchase, so I want to work with these specific numbers. However, if anyone has alternative, lighter campers that they know of, we would love to hear. Requirements include bunk house and dinette or couch slide. We are definitely OK with the Murphy bed. We would not want to decrease in length to a 17' or 19'.

The Suburban is a 5.3 L with the 3.73 gears... It has a listed tow rating of 7,100 lbs, but when I put the vin in the vin decoder, I get the following:

Gross Combined Wt Rating 14000, 13,000 lbs 14000.0 min 14000.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Trailer Wt. 5000 lbs 5000.0 min 5000.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Tongue Wt. 500 lbs 500.0 min 500.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Trailer Wt. 7900, 7000 lbs 7000.0 min 7900.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Tongue Wt. 1185, 1050 lbs 1050.0 min 1185.0 max

I am pretty certain that I understand everything about how hitch weights and trailer dry weight plus cargo weight factor into the towing decision. We really like the 23 foot range campers with the bunks and don't have any real desire for the next step up to the 26 foot range. If we did, it would be a no brainer that we would need a more capable TV. I suppose that my dilemma is that we don't plan on buying the camper for over a year and are not certain if it will require a TV upgrade. There is decent trade in equity in the current suburban, so it could be ideal to maximize on it now and upgrade in TV if warranted.

We do plan on doing some local camping, but also intend to use the camper for cross country road trips when we eventually get it. We are not "bring the whole house" with us type of people and did pack lightly with the previous camper, but also, we never went cross country.

My current personal thought is that even if the stated dry weight is off 10% that puts us at 5148 lbs dry, then include approx 1200 lbs of stuff and we are at 6350, putting us about 750 lbs under max weight. We will certainly use weight distribution, I still have the equalizer from the previous camper, so if I go by the VIN info, then I am 1550 lbs under max.

Is anyone towing within this limit? Is anyone towing this type of camper with a 1/2 ton suburban? Has anyone ever seen the yellow sticker on a real live camper of the variety that I am looking at to compare how far off base from brochure weight the things are?

Thanks in advance for any input you can offer. We have every intention of being one of the safe, responsible ones out there on the road.

-Eric

[handye9]

Your tow vehicle has several ratings that are inter-related.

Max tow rating is what the vehicle is rated to pull, under prime conditions. Those conditions DO NOT include aftermarket accessories, passengers, pets, or cargo of any kind. As you add weight (people, pets, accessories, cargo) to the tow vehicle, you are reducing it's max tow capacity, along with it's available payload, pound for pound.

Payload (AKA cargo carrying capacity) is what the vehicle is rated to carry. Payload is used up by weight of people, pets, cargo, accessories, weight distributing hitch, and tongue weight from the trailer. Should be a tire / loading sticker on your drivers door post. It will show your payload / cargo carrying capacity. It is possible to exceed payload before you get close to that max tow weight.

You also have weight ratings on the hitch, axles, and tires. Your true "max tow weight" is limited to the weakest link in your overall ratings. Normally, that is payload.

Here's a link to a calculator that may give you an idea of what is a good weight for you to tow.