Backer plates for snap-up brackets added 7 years ago on my tube style A-frame:
Backer plates for Reese DC frame plates added 4 years ago on my tube style A-frame:
Note: Jam nut was installed.
I have a 1,250lb loaded tongue weight and use 1,500lb trunnion bars.
Bob
Backer plates for Reese DC frame plates added 4 years ago on my tube style A-frame:
Note: Jam nut was installed.
I have a 1,250lb loaded tongue weight and use 1,500lb trunnion bars.
Bob
Drew_K wrote:
On the snap up brackets, where do you put the backer plates?
You're trying to ensure the the DC brackets are connected well (self tappers in thin steel may not hold well) and you're trying to prevent the face of the frame from being bent.
For the snap up bracket you're trying to do the same thing, as well as prevent the snap up itself from bending.
My approach is probably the most "overboard" by adding plates to both sides of the frame as well as spacers to prevent excessive squishing of the frame when securing the plates. The DC mount and the snap ups are attached to the plate with studs that are threaded and welded(click photo for more info):
Here's a more normal approach (Click photo for more info):
Another approach would be to put the tube I have on top of the frame through the frame (welded) and then bolt through the frame.
I would also add this: It doesn't take some crazy avoidable event to bend a thin tube A-Frame. It's prudent to do the extra reenforcing from the start.
You can also get riv-nuts from Reese. For a tube frame - I would use these at a minimum - 5 per side. I would set the riv-nuts by building a setting tool from star washers rather than the approach in the Reese instructions.
I think the internal backing plates would add some level of support over the riv-nuts and would be worth the additional work/expense. If you did all the other work a muffler shop could tack the nuts on for you....
anaro wrote:
the TT we are seriously looking at is a 2014 sabre 320RETS (lots of pics, floor plan and weights here). we will be purchasing either a 2014 silverado 2500 or 3500 gasser to tow with (both have specs ok for this TT). we bought the Reese dual cam new from TT dealership in 2011. here is a very old pic from before everything was dialed in 2 TV ago but it is the only pic I currently have of the hitch.
if it helps we will probably be loading a bit heavy in that front closet adding to the tongue weight as that is the best place for our chairs, screen tent etc. to be put away.
OK I looked up your camper. First, very nice camper. Congrats on your choice.
Second, As Barney said, skip the Reese round bar hitch you have now. It is not going to work for your new rig and you will not be happy with it.
Now to what size, the link to the dealer you sent shows a 2014 model that has a GVWR of 11,149 with a dry TW of 989 on a dry GVW of 8,473#. A CCC of 2,626#. This has a dry TW % of 11.7%. And it states the length 35' 2".
Then I go to the Palamino site and they have something different.
320RTS
I cannot find what year the Palamino site is stating. They say that camper is 10,585 GVWR with a dry TW of 869 on a dry GVW of 8,035#. A CCC of 2,500#. This has a dry TW % of 10.8% The color scheme on the outside is different. And it states the length 36' 1".
Do not know why they are different. Maybe the web site is 2013 specs? Maybe something to check out. Even the fresh tank is a different size. and they are also a foot different in length
Since you liked us to that dealer 2014 unit we will work with those weights. You are starting with a little over 1,000# empty TW once the LP tanks are filled.
Since this is rear living area camper, and a lot of your storage is forward of the axle, the TW is going to rise once you start loading fairly quickly. You are into 1,500# WD bars and maybe 1,700# pending what you end up hauling fresh water if you need to haul fresh water. You really want that big a camper and 35ft long to have good TW to start with. Be looking to get to loaded 13 to 15% TW per GVW.
Here is what I would recommend, the Reese HP trunnion bar system with the DC and the 2 1/2" shank. Note: You want to get a 1" hi rise tow ball rated at 12,000# or higher to not bind in turns at the DC. You can pick either the 1,500# or the 1,700# WD bars. I myself would go to the 1,700#. But you could manage the TW to fit the 1,500 if needed. Adding 1500# of gear at 15% TW is right at 1,500# on 9,973# GVW. By buying the 2 1/2" shank now, that is done with in case you need to upgrade to the 1,700# bars, then you just do the WD bars. If you are buying a new truck, many of them now come with the 2 1/2" receiver to start with. Check the truck reliever WD rating that you can handle the 1,700 if needed or mange down to fit in the 1,500#
Here is mine,
The hi rise ball compared to the standard
Also heads up. You need to bolt the snap up brackets to the frame with these kind of heavy TW's or you will have snap up failure.
Another heads up, it looks like that A frame is rectangular tube. And since Forest River now owns Palamino like they own Coachmen they may have done the same setup. See this very unfortunate issue
DC setup by Mrekim
You need to put backer plates on the tube frame to not crush it. Mrekim's situation seems to the worst we have seen but many others have had tube frame deformation (swaged out) from self tapping screws and trying to bolt the snap up's on with out using the backer plates. Those who have started with backer plates have not had the issue.
I'll throw out this thought on the truck, with a camper this big and the TW starting at 1,000#, I do not know if your are looking at the diesel, crew cab and what bed weight you have, however consider a 1 ton single rear wheels. My camper has a 1,600# loaded TW and I have 500# of stuff in the truck bed. That and a crew cab I'm glad I went 1 Ton SRW's. In the not to distant future we will be doing cross country travel and a truck cap is in the thoughts (300#) and odds are high more stuff... the cost difference between 2500 and 3500 SRW's new is not a lot but you sure do get a more payload.
Hope this helps and good luck. Enjoy the new rig.
John
PS. If they offer a 16" tire in E load range on the camper, seriously consider it. I could not find a tire size. They may have 15" D's and that is too close on either of those 2 campers.
the TT we are seriously looking at is a 2014 sabre 320RETS (lots of pics, floor plan and weights here). we will be purchasing either a 2014 silverado 2500 or 3500 gasser to tow with (both have specs ok for this TT). we bought the Reese dual cam new from TT dealership in 2011. here is a very old pic from before everything was dialed in 2 TV ago but it is the only pic I currently have of the hitch.
if it helps we will probably be loading a bit heavy in that front closet adding to the tongue weight as that is the best place for our chairs, screen tent etc. to be put away.
if it helps we will probably be loading a bit heavy in that front closet adding to the tongue weight as that is the best place for our chairs, screen tent etc. to be put away.
