3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

[professor95]

professor95 wrote:
EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here.

In the eight year run of this thread we have amassed almost 10,000 postings and surpassed a million views. This creates somewhat of a dilemma for anyone who has just discovered the forum.

Since the amount of information is virtually overwhelming, I suggest you set your preferences for this thread to read "newest first" and then begin to page backwards.

What you will find in these pages is a wealth of info on virtually any make or model of Chinese manufactured synchronous (non-inverter) generator in the 3,000 watt performance class. Info will include how to rewire series coils to parallel to obtain maximum wattage from a single 120 volt outlet. Tips on further reducing sound levels, how to care for these generators, which ones are "RV ready" and provide the best overall performance for the dollar invested. Which companies NOT to deal with, where the best prices are, how to safely wire the generator into a home or RV, how to check your RV for electrical faults, sources for generator accessories, which 20/30 adapters are safe to use and which are not. How to convert a gasoline generator to propane or NG. This is only the beginning. The forum has a life of its own with the focus sub-topic switching frequently. Still, the main topic of utilizing the amazing, inexpensive Chinese gensets is always there. The amount of creativity and innovation presented in these pages is indicative of the talents shared in the diverse backgrounds of the folks who make up our combined RV community.

Many of the original brands and models of Chinese gensets mentioned in the introduction and early pages of the thread have since disappeared. New EPA and CARB emissions requirements, company bonds assuring the emissions warranty will be honored even if the company goes out of business, and fierce competition in the industry have changed the playing field. Champion Power Equipment has become the apparent "trophy team" providing an ever expanding retail outlet, an ample parts supply, a strong warranty and excellent customer service. CPE has continued to improve their product and now offers a new model (#46538) with exclusive convenience, safety and performance features aimed at the RV market. Big names like Cummins/Onan, Honda and Generac all now have Chinese built open frame synchronous gensets available. Ironically, the prices often found on these gensets has not significantly changed during the past eight years - even with the devaluation of the American Dollar and new EPA/CARB requirements.

I also encourage you to use the search function and even the advanced search options to find information. Key works such as "rewiring", "PowerPro", "Champion", "Onan Homesite", "Duropower", "ETQ", "Jiung Dong or JD", "Tractor Supply", "Costco", "Lowe's" and "Home Depot" are all examples of keywords that will give you specific information on different models being sold by retailers today.

Or, you can fill your glass with your favorite beverage (keep more close by - maybe some munchies as well :D, sit back at your computer, tell your wife (or significant other) that you will see her in the morning and spend the next 10 or so hours reading through the postings.

No one on the forum gets mad if you ask a question that is a repeat. Please do not hesitate to post to the forum. All questions are considered important and those active on the forum will do their best to respond with a valid answer.

Also note we are not out to knock the Honda, Yamaha, Kipor or other brands of high end digital gensets. We recognize the quality of these products and their suitability for quite, efficient RV use. But, there is a flood of reliable, inexpensive and comparatively lower cost gensets coming out of China that are excellent alternative choices for the RVer wanting power to run an air conditioner, microwave, etc. without excessive noise or breaking the budget.

Oh, one last thing. The folks on this forum are true gentlemen. We do not flame one another or the product discussed - period. Ugly contributors usually have their comments and remarks ignored by our masses. It is not a forum to start arguments to obtain a clear win. We do disagree on many issues, but we have all agreed to do that in a respectable manner.

We now have the introduction of more and more inverter gensets. There is a rather extensive thread named "The Official Unofficial Champion 2000i Generator" on this forum. Today, I added info on the new Champion 3100i inverter genset. Discussion on this product may get moved to its own thread at a later date.

Many have looked upon this thread with distain saying Chinese is cheap and doomed to failure. I remember saying exactly the same thing about Japanese products a few decades back. But, over the past eight years the track record for Chinese built generators has shown otherwise.

Please, join us in a fascinating journey down the Chinese built genset road of knowledge.

This is the question I posted that got it all started back in March 2005.......

Randy

For a little over a month now, I have been somewhat intrigued by the availability of a 3000 watt, 6.5 HP generator at Pep Boys and Northern Tool for under $300.00. The engine on this generator looks identical to a Honda 6.5 HP OHV engine. Knowing that the Chinese have become very adept at “cloning” reputable technologies from other manufacturers, I was not surprised at the similarities. Neither store could give me any information on the generator nor did they have a “running” display model.

I have done a little research. This is what I have discovered:

Many of these generators are imported by ELIM International (www.eliminternational.com) out of Buffalo, New York from Jiung Manufacturing in China. (The unit at Northern is identical but carries the JIUNG name.)

The engines are indeed a Chinese knockoff of the popular 6.5 HP 196cc Honda Engine. “Supposedly” Honda has licensed the engine technology to the Chinese manufacturer of the product.

The Chinese company that makes the ELM3000 generators is a rather large, diverse, long-standing company with a reputation for “above average quality” Chinese made products (Jiung Manufacturing). There are many more Chinese companies making almost identical gensets.

The generators at PepBoys do have a six month limited warranty. But, it is only on the engine (not the generator) and requires paying for shipping to and from Buffalo. Probably not a very practical thing to do if you have warranty issues.

ELIM does supply replacement parts (a PDF parts manual is available on the ELIM web site). No prices are given for replacement parts nor is there an “availability listing”.

The generator head itself is a brushless design. The only really significant wear parts in the generator are the bearings – most likely universally available.

The published dB rating is 67 at 23 feet. This is “reasonably” quite for a generator of this size as most comparabl.... The 67 dB rating is the same as Honda gives their 3000 watt CycloInverter with a “look alike” eng...

[jpkiljan]

professor95 wrote:

. . .
I know we have had the bonding/grounding discussion before on this forum and agreement seems to evade the group. Even our Northern neighbors have code regulations that require the designated neutral on a genset to be bonded to the frame. I am adamant that this practice is not safe for a portable genset used with an RV (it is OK for connection to a residental power system).
. . .

Hello Professor95, You're certainly right about there not being agreement. I reached just the opposite conclusions after reading the article in the IMSA Journal at this link

http://www.imsasafety.org/journal/marapr/ma5.htm

or click HERE.

These are the guys whose job it is to hook up emergency power supplies in the field during civil disasters. To me, that gives their views a fair amount of credibility. Sorry, but I don't remember who to give credit to for originally posting that article to this group.

This assumes, as you did in a later post, that the neutral and ground are not bonded together inside the RV. They are not in my MH; but, of course, they could be in other people's RV's. For my RV, and probably many others, it certainly looks like IMSA is saying that the Canadians have got it right when running an RV off of a generator--the generator frame and the power socket's neutral should be bonded together.

This also assumes that you are using the generator to connect to the residential wiring with a transfer switch that does not switch the neutral connection. Apparently, that is the most common kind of low-amperage transfer switch. In that case the IMSA article is saying that generator frame should not be bonded to the neutral since it will leave you with currents flowing through both the neutral and the ground wire into the house.

I've never read the NEC and don't plan to. But, to me, the basic principals seem plain enough: the neutral should be connected to the ground wire at a single point (and only at a single point) in every electrical hookup--portable or residential. And, that parallel currents flowing in the neutral and the ground wires of any circuit are a hazard.

--John

[Old___Slow]

fireguy60 wrote:
Just my two cents....

I have been reading this forum for a long time now, a lot of information. I have asked questions, and recieved answers. Thank you to all who post here.

I am not a Champion owner, I had my All-power before I found this forum, but I was able to get some good ideas here and I thought I would post my gen after the modifications.





I fabricated the wheel kit myself, I still am thinking about extending a handle on the end.

One mod I added: The double pole switch to isolate the load without having to manually unplug the cord.

Happy camping everyone!:)[/quote

Nice mod. I see something that is of interest to me, there is discussion ongoing about the flow of air through the genset. The picture post shows more clearly, on your genset,what I can't see on my Champ. The openings in the middle. I'm so new to this genset world. I find each day posts that are so interesting. At my old age it's fun again, learning new stuff. The design of these gensets is unique. I think with a mod. to repossion the muffler, I would be in business. Anyone have ideas that would help my adding a heat barrier between the muffler and the genhead.

Thanks,

Floyd.

[wpoling]

Has anybody looked at being able to parallel two C46540's together? I've found that with my new set-up I'm running out of power, 15,000 btu air conditioner, Xantrex Freedom 458 100amp Charger / 2000 watt Inverter, coffee maker, microwave, etc. Main problem is I can't run air when charger is in "bulk" charge mode.

I'm thinking about a Guardian RV 5500 to 6500 unit. Does anybody know if you can mount one of these on the back like the Onan Juice Box?

Bill

[hbski]

MrWizard wrote:

Why would this be so? The louvered cap is the inlet, so the AVR should see the coolest air as it enters the gen head.

I imagine it can still be a lot cooler outside, provided it doesn't generate significant heat itself.

maybe that is the way it should be, but it is not

no it is not the inlet, it is the exit, remove the cap and place your hand in front of the avr, you can feel hot air blowing out.

the fan is on the other end of the shaft near the motor and like the one on the motor it pulls air in on that end and blows it thru the genny head and out the lovered end

if it is suposed to work the other way somebody designed the blower wrong or is mounting it backwards on the shaft

the AVR is definetly cooler outside than inside the genny head

EDIT: i just went out and stuck my hand under the genny head where it meets the engine, where the fan opening is, it is cooler than the end cap, there is NO warm air blowing out of the front end of the genny head !

Uhh, on mine it draws air in that end cap and expells it out near the front downward and toward the back. This flow pattern was confirmed by champion when I e-mailed them about the generator air flows at a time when I did not have access to mine, but was working on my enclosure design. Once I had access I started it up and indeed confirmed that it draws air in that endcap. This information was pivotal in my enclosure design.

[MrWizard]

its not as quiet as a honda UI that is idling

however when that honda is running the A/C it and the champion are pretty close too the same sound level, it takes sound meter to prove it .. to the human ear they are close in level but at a different pitch

[AZJIM1]

everymilesamemory wrote:
I've been trying to read through here to see what anyone says about the noise level of the Champion?

Is it quite like a Honda or Yamaha, or more comparable to a Contractor Generator??

Pat

While camping in Yosemite in June there were two built-in generators in Motorhomes nearby that were MUCH louder than my Champion was . . . one of them was on the far side of the loop I was in and was easy to hear. That being said, I am hoping to someday find a good deal on a little used Honda, Yamaha, etc. to use for battery recharging, etc. on trips when I know I won't need the A/C.

[Old___Slow]

hbski wrote:

MrWizard wrote:
.....when mounted in the genny head there is hot air blowing on the potted/encased side of the AVR.....

Why would this be so? The louvered cap is the inlet, so the AVR should see the coolest air as it enters the gen head.

I imagine it can still be a lot cooler outside, provided it doesn't generate significant heat itself.

Voltage regelators have been on my mind since the Old Onan I trashed needed a new one, the Onan reg. is priced @$336.00, that is of course more than the cost of my Champ. When I looked at the picture Mr Wizard posted this am I thought I would investigate and opened the genhead to have a look. I could see that it was attached in the genhead with heat from the muffler, metal to metal. That spelled heat. I made the decision to move the AVR outside of the genhead. Something else I noticed, by moving the AVR maybe there would be increased airflow through the genhead. Any help we can give the little fellow to run cooler, ever how small it seems, is worth the effort.

[MrWizard]

to fireguy60, nicely done.

[MrWizard]

Why would this be so? The louvered cap is the inlet, so the AVR should see the coolest air as it enters the gen head.

I imagine it can still be a lot cooler outside, provided it doesn't generate significant heat itself.

maybe that is the way it should be, but it is not

no it is not the inlet, it is the exit, remove the cap and place your hand in front of the avr, you can feel hot air blowing out.

the fan is on the other end of the shaft near the motor and like the one on the motor it pulls air in on that end and blows it thru the genny head and out the lovered end

if it is suposed to work the other way somebody designed the blower wrong or is mounting it backwards on the shaft

the AVR is definetly cooler outside than inside the genny head

EDIT: i just went out and stuck my hand under the genny head where it meets the engine, where the fan opening is, it is cooler than the end cap, there is NO warm air blowing out of the front end of the genny head !

[Old___Slow]

Thank you Mr professor, I'm more concerned now than before. The thought had always occurred to me that the RV is on rubber tires and has no grounding. I lived in the Philippines for a few years and there as you know it's 220. I needed 110 for US products. Not knowing about electric matters I had been using a converter and it was noticed by a local. He told me to just make a good ground and use only one of the wires, as you know they only use a two wire system no ground. for 110v one wire for 220 two wires. I also needed 110v power for the US a/c I had, he said, no problem, in the metal panel box was a common ground. They either sent 110 or 220 to various outlets. I thought this kind of dangerous but just scratched my head and went about my business. It will take me some time to sort out all my questions, however I needed to be in your class to maybe better understand all about grounding. Not knowing anything about gensets I have a real fear to continue my wiring of the genset RV plug.Perhaps I need to spent the $100.00 to be on the safe side. I have been plugging the RV power cord into the RV plug on the getset but still would like the genset to be wired to the RV plug for the power cord. Thanks again for your thoughtful post.

Floyd

[TKMJ]

professor95 wrote:

TKMJ wrote:
In my own haste to get the genset up and running (a week after I got it) I started that puppy up (yes I added the oil first) and started using the genset. I did not plug my multi tester into the genset to check it. Shame on me bigtime. I ran my saber saw with no problem to cut out some 1/4 plywood figures. After I was finished with the saw I plugged my motorhome in to get some light going inside to get a little work done. It ran fine. I know not to use the A/C and other devices because of the design of the genset. 15amps max per receptacle. The A/C sucks 12.5amps. I did not want to over tax the genset. The problem occurred when my wife stepped into the motorhome with bare feet. She grabbed the pull up handle at the step and got zapped bigtime. 120 volts from her left hand down to her feet. It knocked her 10 feet as she fell on the driveway. Her hand had minor burns on it from the shock. She also has a minor burn on her right foot bottom. She was locked up on the handle for only a few seconds. I jumped out to help her and also got hit upon my exit. After shutting the genset down I disconnected the genset and plugged my meter into the 120 volt receptacle. Here are my results. hot to neutral 120V. hot to ground zero volts. neutral to ground 120volts. The receptacles were wired backwards. I then plugged the genset back into the coach and tested the frame to an earth ground 120 volts was the reading. I then disconnected the genset and plugged the coach into the house and retested it. Zero volts from the frame to earth ground. The problem is with the genset and not the coach.

Ken,

I finished reading your post about an hour ago. I also viewed your photos. This is my take on the generator based on the info you have given:

There really is not a protected neutral on these gensets like you have in residential power systems. Either side of the winding may be called neutral. The problem is when all of the outlets do not use the same point on the coil winding as the designated neutral and the genset is used to power an appliance (an RV is an appliance).

In the residential wiring world, the silver screw on a duplex outlet should have the white wire and the gold screw the colored one. But, gensets do not always follow residential wiring codes per NEC.

You said you measured at the 120 volt outlet. Did you measure at both outlets to see if the results were the same? Remember, on a split circuit the designated neutral will be common to both outlets (the center tap) but hot will be at different ends of the output coil(s). From the front of the outlet the longer slot should be "neutral", the shorter slot hot and the "D" shaped center opening the ground (actually grounding).

It sounds to me like your generator may have the designated neutral bonded to the frame and one of the two outlets may have the wiring reversed. This could be a potentially dangerous situation. I know we have had the bonding/grounding discussion before on this forum and agreement seems to evade the group. Even our Northern neighbors have code regulations that require the designated neutral on a genset to be bonded to the frame. I am adamant that this practice is not safe for a portable genset used with an RV (it is OK for connection to a residental power system). The neutral should not be bonded to a portable generator frame for RV use. The grounding lug should have the frame bond and the designated neutral will find ground, if needed, from the appliance it is used with. Increased safety is achieved when the frame on a genset having the power outlet grounding lug bonded to the genset frame is also bonded to earth ground.

I hope this is a little clearer than muddy water.

BTW, our extended summer RV travels have come to an end :(. It is now time to return to a job.

Professor95,

Better take another look at the pictures. The hot side of of both 120volt recepticals are bonded together while the neutral (t-slot) of each receptical goes to the breakers on opposing phases. Hence when a volt meter is applied to the neutral slot of both recepticals 240 volts is achieved.

Per artical 250 and 551 of the NEC, the panelboard of a RV must have a bonding jumper between the neutral and ground as a seperatly derived system. When the generator was applied to the coach the 120volts on the neutral wire of the cord was applied to the both the neutral and ground of the coach causing an unsafe condition. Therefor the chassie of the coach became the hot side while the power side became the neutral. (reversed polarity) causing the accident. In the genset the nuetral and ground are not bonded. It was a mistake made at the factory. Even my plug-in polarity/GFCI tester showed a reverse polarity situation.

I am still waiting to see what Wildfire has to offer to fix the situation. So far they have offered to replace the genset. Shipping was not included in the deal. It's their standard replacement policy. Not enough for me. I replaced one genset on their terms. I won't replace a second one that almost killed my wife on those terms.

30+ years as an electrician has taught me a great deal. I also hold an inspectors license as well. I also teach in an appriniticship program. I live by Art. 250 NEC.

Ken

[Wuttevr]

Mr Professor.....scratch that. The All-Knowing One,

I now need a beer and 2, maybe 3 Aleve, but I am a better man for it. You have just increased my knowledge of AC exponentially; somewhere in the neighborhood of to the 1000th power. Thank you.

Best Regards,

[professor95]

Old & Slow wrote:
I'm sorry professor, can't see very well, in this muddy water. From the view I have I'm lost as always when it comes this subject and only wish to have a more clear picture. Being one of those (OLD) guys that missed taking the Electric 101 class I've been handy capped through life. You explain and explain again and I so wish I could get the drift. I'm floating in muddy water trying to understand the ground, floating ground, common ground, commercial, non commercial, north, south ...I feel like a real dummy. I ran a large company but this grounding floors me. I am almost afraid to finish my project of installing my new champ by wiring a RV plug from my Retrofitted genset factory tray. I need to wire, with a RV plug and 12 gage romex into the metal transfer box used by my old Onan. It has two wire (one white I think I understand is the ground and I don't know what kind of ground) and the black that I know to be hot and in the box is a copper unprotected wire that I remember as not being used. The way the factory set up was is fool proof. The power cord from the RV, you either plug into shore power or into the socket which leads to the genset. No chance to make a mistake. So I'm still lost about this white ground wire to the RV socket.
My Champ. genset in grounding to the frame by metal contact.

Floyd

Please understand all of the ground and neutral stuff is indeed a challenge to decipher and can be confusing. It has nothing to do with eyesight or age :B The NEC codebook devotes a large percentage of its language to grounds and grounding. I have spent an entire semester teaching just that one concept.

A common argument and misunderstanding focuses on the neutral and ground wires being redundant since the both tie to earth ground. The most common question is why do we need two wires going to the same point when one should work?

It becomes even more confusing when the NEC requires common bonding in main panels and separate bonding in sub-panels.

Let's bring things down to simple language and a silly analogy.

If you come to a river and there is no bridge, you have two choices: Wait until there is a bridge built or look for another route.

The flow of electrons is no different. Where we as humans get into trouble is when they find another route using our bodies.

In direct current systems electrons always flow in the same direction, negative to positive.

Alternating current has no fixed polarity. Electrons run one way and then the other. In the US this change occurs 60 times per second.

AC does not need a ground. But it does need a complete path (bridge) from a starting point and ending point, or ending point and starting point, to make a circuit. If one direction is blocked, it becomes pulsating DC.

AC power systems in the USA physically connect one wire in a 120 volt system to good old Mother Earth (not so for 240 VAC). The wire that connects to earth is called ground. It is therefore designated as "neutral" since it by itself has no electrical potential.

We can be hurt by the flow of electrons through our bodies when that other wire in a 120 volt AC system that is not connected to ground comes in contact with us while we are in contact with ground. We refer to this "other wire" as the HOT wire since it is not at ground potential.

Picture for a moment an electric heater with a metal case. Inside is an element that gets hot when electrons from the two wires in an AC power system go through it.

In example 1, suppose the element burns in two and the remaining end connected to neutral contacts the metal cabinet. If you touch the cabinet, nothing will happen to you.

But, in example 2, if the end of the element that is NOT connected to ground touches the cabinet and then YOU touch the cabinet while YOU are grounded YOU will complete the circuit and can be hurt or killed. It is a 50/50 shot as to which end may contact the cabinet.

To better our odds of survival should a fault like example 2 occur, we will add a third conductor. It will be bolted to the metal cabinet and the end of the conductor will go to earth ground (called the grounding conductor). Now, if the power wire that is not connected to ground touches the cabinet it will have a path to ground and hopefully trip a breaker or blow a fuse before you touch it and you will be spared the pain of an electrical shock. If everything is working OK, no current will flow in this "third" wire, or grounding conductor.

An RV is wired like the electric heater and other appliances we plug into conventional power systems. There is NO connection between neutral and the grounding connection unless a fault occurs. In a correctly wired RV, the frame and other metal parts of a RV should be connected to the third wire, or grounding conductor - again, the metal parts of the RV should not connect to the neutral conductor within the RV wiring system. It is possible for the RV frame to find a path to ground through jacks when it is not plugged into a power source. Note the word "possible".

When a RV is plugged into a conventional 120 VAC power outlet (referred to as shore power) with the neutral connected to ground per the National Electrical Code, one of the two power wires in the RV will be at ground potential. The third wire, or protection wire created for grounding, will also find earth ground through a second (and different) path. All is good in this situation.

In exhibit A we have a portable genset sitting on the ground. The wire designated as neutral on the genset is bonded to the frame of the genset - thus the genset frame and neutral are somewhat grounded. A fault occurs in the RV that causes the power wire to come in contact with the RV frame. Since the frame is not grounded in this situation, we have no "bridge". The RV frame is said to be HOT. We come along and put one foot on a metal step or touch a metal part while the other foot is on the ground. Now we have a bridge through us. (codes in Canada require neutral bonding to the genset frame. USA codes do not)

How can this be prevented? One method is to isolate the generator from ground "IF" the neutral is bonded to the genset frame.

A safer method is to NOT bond the genset neutral to the frame. This isolates the two power wires from true ground. We then bond the third wire to the genset frame and tie the genset to earth ground.

When replacing your Onan with the Champion you should be sure there is an uninterrupted connection between the generator frame, the RV frame and the grounding lug on the generator. Neither of the two power wires should contact any part of the RV or genset frame. Lastly, to protect yourself from a potential fault anywhere in the system, it is a good idea to have a portable ground for the RV frame and/or a ground fault circuit interrupter in the power feed.

How do you ground the RV frame? Metal jacks may do it if the earth is moist. Better yet, drive a metal stake or rod in the ground and connect it to the RV frame with at least a #10 copper wire. A battery jumper cable works well for this purpose. Or, you can learn to jump from the ground to the RV step with both feet at once. Also, be reminded that concrete, gravel and (to a lesser degree) asphalt all can conduct electricity. You can get a pretty good shock standing on concrete as well as wet grass.

Another protection method is to use a ground fault circuit interrupter between the power source (both genset or shore) and the RV power cord. A 30 amp GFCI for RVs run about $100, less than 1/100th the cost of a funeral or emergency room visit. Yes, I use one all the time because I can never be sure of grounding the RV adequately.

I'll say it again (and again, and again, and again), having a neutral wire on a portable genset bonded to the genset frame when connected to an RV is just asking for trouble.

Maybe this water is not as muddy and you can more clearly see the potential problem.

[Grumpy4Ya]

Howdy All,
I'm new to this forum and this is my first post, so please pardon my beginner errors. I've already read quite a few pages of this thread and the wealth of knowledge and civility of all the posters is terrific. I feel like I'm whipping a dead horse here, but I wanted to check with you all before I dove in with my 2nd gen purchases. I bought a Coleman Powermate, 4000 peak watts 3250 running 240v @ 40a, and 2 duplex at 110 @20a, a while back thinking I could power the AC in my 23' 90 Fleetwood 5er. The AC is one of two models and either puts out 11,000 or 13,500 btu's (is btu correct for cooling?) and its on a 30 service in the RV. Any how, when I looked at the specs for the AC, it showed the most draw as 13.2 amps, soooo, I thought the unit could handle it. And it did, under the right circumstances (nice cool days, for a limited test time). However, when the outside temps get hot my amp meter shows a creeping draw up to 20a +. and I'm popping breakers faster that popcorn. The service manager at my local RV place said that when the ambient temp is high it is not uncommon for AC units to creep up, therefore the 30a service. I'm looking to upgrade to the Champion C46540 RV ready with the 30a breaker. I was looking for some sage advice as if you all thought this should resolve my AC dilemma. I would really appriciate any help you all could give.

[fireguy60]

Just my two cents....

I have been reading this forum for a long time now, a lot of information. I have asked questions, and recieved answers. Thank you to all who post here.

I am not a Champion owner, I had my All-power before I found this forum, but I was able to get some good ideas here and I thought I would post my gen after the modifications.





I fabricated the wheel kit myself, I still am thinking about extending a handle on the end.

One mod I added: The double pole switch to isolate the load without having to manually unplug the cord.

Happy camping everyone!:)