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3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
professor95 wrote:
EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here.

In the eight year run of this thread we have amassed almost 10,000 postings and surpassed a million views. This creates somewhat of a dilemma for anyone who has just discovered the forum.

Since the amount of information is virtually overwhelming, I suggest you set your preferences for this thread to read "newest first" and then begin to page backwards.

What you will find in these pages is a wealth of info on virtually any make or model of Chinese manufactured synchronous (non-inverter) generator in the 3,000 watt performance class. Info will include how to rewire series coils to parallel to obtain maximum wattage from a single 120 volt outlet. Tips on further reducing sound levels, how to care for these generators, which ones are "RV ready" and provide the best overall performance for the dollar invested. Which companies NOT to deal with, where the best prices are, how to safely wire the generator into a home or RV, how to check your RV for electrical faults, sources for generator accessories, which 20/30 adapters are safe to use and which are not. How to convert a gasoline generator to propane or NG. This is only the beginning. The forum has a life of its own with the focus sub-topic switching frequently. Still, the main topic of utilizing the amazing, inexpensive Chinese gensets is always there. The amount of creativity and innovation presented in these pages is indicative of the talents shared in the diverse backgrounds of the folks who make up our combined RV community.

Many of the original brands and models of Chinese gensets mentioned in the introduction and early pages of the thread have since disappeared. New EPA and CARB emissions requirements, company bonds assuring the emissions warranty will be honored even if the company goes out of business, and fierce competition in the industry have changed the playing field. Champion Power Equipment has become the apparent "trophy team" providing an ever expanding retail outlet, an ample parts supply, a strong warranty and excellent customer service. CPE has continued to improve their product and now offers a new model (#46538) with exclusive convenience, safety and performance features aimed at the RV market. Big names like Cummins/Onan, Honda and Generac all now have Chinese built open frame synchronous gensets available. Ironically, the prices often found on these gensets has not significantly changed during the past eight years - even with the devaluation of the American Dollar and new EPA/CARB requirements.

I also encourage you to use the search function and even the advanced search options to find information. Key works such as "rewiring", "PowerPro", "Champion", "Onan Homesite", "Duropower", "ETQ", "Jiung Dong or JD", "Tractor Supply", "Costco", "Lowe's" and "Home Depot" are all examples of keywords that will give you specific information on different models being sold by retailers today.

Or, you can fill your glass with your favorite beverage (keep more close by - maybe some munchies as well :D, sit back at your computer, tell your wife (or significant other) that you will see her in the morning and spend the next 10 or so hours reading through the postings.

No one on the forum gets mad if you ask a question that is a repeat. Please do not hesitate to post to the forum. All questions are considered important and those active on the forum will do their best to respond with a valid answer.

Also note we are not out to knock the Honda, Yamaha, Kipor or other brands of high end digital gensets. We recognize the quality of these products and their suitability for quite, efficient RV use. But, there is a flood of reliable, inexpensive and comparatively lower cost gensets coming out of China that are excellent alternative choices for the RVer wanting power to run an air conditioner, microwave, etc. without excessive noise or breaking the budget.

Oh, one last thing. The folks on this forum are true gentlemen. We do not flame one another or the product discussed - period. Ugly contributors usually have their comments and remarks ignored by our masses. It is not a forum to start arguments to obtain a clear win. We do disagree on many issues, but we have all agreed to do that in a respectable manner.

We now have the introduction of more and more inverter gensets. There is a rather extensive thread named "The Official Unofficial Champion 2000i Generator" on this forum. Today, I added info on the new Champion 3100i inverter genset. Discussion on this product may get moved to its own thread at a later date.

Many have looked upon this thread with distain saying Chinese is cheap and doomed to failure. I remember saying exactly the same thing about Japanese products a few decades back. But, over the past eight years the track record for Chinese built generators has shown otherwise.

Please, join us in a fascinating journey down the Chinese built genset road of knowledge.

This is the question I posted that got it all started back in March 2005.......

Randy


For a little over a month now, I have been somewhat intrigued by the availability of a 3000 watt, 6.5 HP generator at Pep Boys and Northern Tool for under $300.00. The engine on this generator looks identical to a Honda 6.5 HP OHV engine. Knowing that the Chinese have become very adept at โ€œcloningโ€ reputable technologies from other manufacturers, I was not surprised at the similarities. Neither store could give me any information on the generator nor did they have a โ€œrunningโ€ display model.

I have done a little research. This is what I have discovered:

Many of these generators are imported by ELIM International (www.eliminternational.com) out of Buffalo, New York from Jiung Manufacturing in China. (The unit at Northern is identical but carries the JIUNG name.)

The engines are indeed a Chinese knockoff of the popular 6.5 HP 196cc Honda Engine. โ€œSupposedlyโ€ Honda has licensed the engine technology to the Chinese manufacturer of the product.

The Chinese company that makes the ELM3000 generators is a rather large, diverse, long-standing company with a reputation for โ€œabove average qualityโ€ Chinese made products (Jiung Manufacturing). There are many more Chinese companies making almost identical gensets.

The generators at PepBoys do have a six month limited warranty. But, it is only on the engine (not the generator) and requires paying for shipping to and from Buffalo. Probably not a very practical thing to do if you have warranty issues.

ELIM does supply replacement parts (a PDF parts manual is available on the ELIM web site). No prices are given for replacement parts nor is there an โ€œavailability listingโ€.

The generator head itself is a brushless design. The only really significant wear parts in the generator are the bearings โ€“ most likely universally available.

The published dB rating is 67 at 23 feet. This is โ€œreasonablyโ€ quite for a generator of this size as most comparabl.... The 67 dB rating is the same as Honda gives their 3000 watt CycloInverter with a โ€œlook alikeโ€ eng...






















Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.
10,029 REPLIES 10,029

Old___Slow
Explorer
Explorer
Fixit,

I just looked out in the genhouse and found I have on hand: One, a Facet Onan part #149-2272 fuel pump and a Holley 12-804 1-4 PSI Fuel Pressure Reg. Never tried the two together as I am a follower more than a leader. Do you have a Chinese genny? If so, maybe you might see what you can do and give us a report.

Floyd

mrfixit454
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the Fuel pump and needle and seat update Professor, I originally asked because an Onan I used a while back had the fuel pump. I installed the gen in my 5th wheel at that time and used a Marine 2.5 gallon tank with quick disconnect. The tank sat under the 5er while parked. We used it for 4 years (weekend campers during the season) and it worked well like this. By the time I got around to getting all the parts and installing a permanent tank, we sold the 5er and kept the gen as a backup to our home. I found a company that made carts for Onan's so its now on wheels and easy to move even though its 200+ pounds. I also used a facet fuel pump on my 64 bug and used a pressure regulator at that time at about 2 psi. I figured that if it could be used in these 2 applications, there was a chance for the Chinese gens.

Fixit
2012 Lance 830 w/Tent Option
2006 2500 Dodge Ram Megacab, Cummins, Auto.

Old___Slow
Explorer
Explorer
Prof,

Several questions from a NON 'lectrician. On the diagram from the HF genny on the link left by JC, the duplex shows one leg of the output (240v) going to the upper and one leg going to the lower recpt. Will the yellow 120v RV adpt work and will it give the full output with the 120/240v switch set to 120v. Also I note by going to the link JC left to the HF genny, it more clearly shows (if I am not wrong) the 12ac on the windings changed by the diode to 12 vdc for battery charging. HMMMM, one poster said something about AC ripple in the 12vdc output on the C46540, is this where that statement come from? Is there such a thing? Will it effect the 12vdc fan I have plugged into that outlet. Or charging any battery? The fans used, have to this time run without failure.

Floyd

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
Not a bad price at all - especially considering the shelf price is $349.95 (not 299.95). Savings are more like $70 between May 20 and 25.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
Crackshot wrote:
Kenper wrote:
Hi, Im a Newbie here.
Apparently I fell into the trap of buying a split phase generator from Harbor Freight. I didn't even know there was a difference between parallel and split until I tried to run my AC. No Luck. Is there a way to rewire this generator to get full power out of the 120 outlets or from the 240? I don't know how to get it into picture format but the Wiring Diagram is on page 30 of this PDF. http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/98000-98999/98706.pdf
Thanks for any help.
Ken


I have a similar genny you have there and going to get a twist lock 110V to 30 amp adapter today.
From what I understand from my manual, is that it will give it 5 more amps and double the watts.
My A/C is 13000 BTU and the normal 110v outlets wont't do the trick.

I will post the results tonight.


No, no, no........ you will not get 5 more amps and double the watts. Watts is power and it is the voltage x the amperage. You will have exactly what you have on a single duplex outlet at 120 volts. Any attempt to alter this in a manner different than putting the two generator windings in parallel with respect to the proper phase relationship will ruin your generator and possibly damage anything connected. It can also potentially ruin you!

All kinds of urban myths about generators abound. Guess this is a new one.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
Kenper wrote:
Hi, Im a Newbie here.
Apparently I fell into the trap of buying a split phase generator from Harbor Freight. I didn't even know there was a difference between parallel and split until I tried to run my AC. No Luck. Is there a way to rewire this generator to get full power out of the 120 outlets or from the 240? I don't know how to get it into picture format but the Wiring Diagram is on page 30 of this PDF. http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/98000-98999/98706.pdf
Thanks for any help.
Ken


Schematic for your generator is shown along with necessary changes to make the windings parallel with the proper phase relationship for full wattage at 120 VAC to a single outlet.
PLEASE UNDERSTAND I CAN MAKE NO WARRANTY OF CORRECTNESS NOR CAN I TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS - EITHER YOURS OR MINE.
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!






Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

Crackshot
Explorer
Explorer
Kenper wrote:
Hi, Im a Newbie here.
Apparently I fell into the trap of buying a split phase generator from Harbor Freight. I didn't even know there was a difference between parallel and split until I tried to run my AC. No Luck. Is there a way to rewire this generator to get full power out of the 120 outlets or from the 240? I don't know how to get it into picture format but the Wiring Diagram is on page 30 of this PDF. http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/98000-98999/98706.pdf
Thanks for any help.
Ken


I have a similar genny you have there and going to get a twist lock 110V to 30 amp adapter today.
From what I understand from my manual, is that it will give it 5 more amps and double the watts.
My A/C is 13000 BTU and the normal 110v outlets wont't do the trick.

I will post the results tonight.
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Lariat Quad cab 4X4 Off Road
5.9 V-8 Magnum, 4:10 differential
4 speed auto with factory trans cooler
HD factory Suspension
2007 Jay Feather EXP 29 A

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
Old & Slow wrote:



Ok, I get it. Need to turn the petcock off after using the genset. But, could you give us more info' and link to a 'electric fuel transfer pump' And how would that effect the gravity feed/needle seat? Safety is a wonderful thing.


Electric transfer pumps may be fine for moving gasoline from one tank to another provided that you are using an actual explosion proof electric fuel pump and not some jury rigged device, are absolutely positive no source of static electricity arc or battery connection spark is nearby (including ignition sources from RV) and, of course, a fail safe overfill protection device is installed. Additionally, good ventilation is always required - especially when working with closed spaces. If you are not familiar with this concept do a little reading related to the requirements for fuel and the venting of installed fuel tanks as per marine applications with pleasure boating. This is the reason I have treated the "cave" as one should treat a bilge on a boat.

I guess you have all ready assumed all of the above can easily make an electric transfer pump cost prohibitive. The vacuum transfer method discussed earlier is much less expensive and safer.

Now to the float needle:

A small amount of gasoline that remains in a carburetor float bowl acts as a flotation fluid for a brass, cork or plastic circular float that pushes a small needle valve against a seat (seal) to prohibit fuel from a fuel tank flowing into the carburetor.

Just as when an adult tries to use a child's small swimming pool flotation tube as a water support device only to discover he sinks while the kid floats, the carburetor fuel bowl float is only capable of a specific amount of buoyancy in relation to the amount of liquid it is displacing and the weight (gravity or counter pressure) that is being applied to the flotation device.

The counter pressure on the carburetor float will increase as the total weight of the fuel above the needle valve increases within a predetermined volumetric area. In the case of the Chinese generator fuel tanks, their design is a large, relatively flat tank that has maximum area and minimum height. Still, as fuel is added and the fuel becomes โ€œstackedโ€ overhead the weight of the fuel will cause an increase in pressure on the float bowl needle.

If too much fuel is โ€œstackedโ€ the weight of the fuel may overcome the counter pressure that is being exerted by the float in the carburetor fuel bowl pushing up on the needle and seat and fuel will enter the carburetor, overflow the container and find somewhere else to go as long as the pressure above exceeds the pressure below.

It is interesting to note that on the smaller inverter style gensets (Honda 1000i, 2000i, Kipor, etc.) the RUN โ€“ STOP switch on the engine also includes the fuel shut off. When you shut down the engine, you automatically turn off the fuel. If the fuel valve is turned on and left on with the engine not running and the fuel should leak past the needle valve, there are specific drain tubes to route fuel to the bottom of the generator case. This prevents fuel from running back into the engine and contaminating the crankcase but does nothing for raw fuel being spilled into an enclosed compartment where the portable genny may be stored. This type of genset also has a fuel cap that can be put into an unvented position. Great to stop leaking in transit but a real problem as temperature changes and fuel expands โ€“ thus increasing pressure up to 15 psi in a closed tank.

None of the GX200 style carburetors I have encountered on the Chinese gensets are specifically designed to withstand pressures on the float needle exceeding 2-3 psi. Their typical operating pressure is design rated at around .5 psi.

In summary โ€“ be careful and turn off the fuel petcock when the engine is not running! Not with just these generators but with your pressure washers, lawn mowers, garden tillers, pumps, or any other small gasoline engine with the fuel tank higher than the carburetor float bowl.

IMHO, forget about electric transfer pump systems as well. Too expensive to do it right โ€“ thus too many shortcuts are taken creating greater risks. The safest method is in reality filling the genny tank from an approved transfer container like a red โ€œgasoline onlyโ€ flex spout plastic fuel jug.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
Explorer
kenper's HF manual link -

HF Manual pdf

~

Kenper
Explorer
Explorer
Hi, Im a Newbie here.
Apparently I fell into the trap of buying a split phase generator from Harbor Freight. I didn't even know there was a difference between parallel and split until I tried to run my AC. No Luck. Is there a way to rewire this generator to get full power out of the 120 outlets or from the 240? I don't know how to get it into picture format but the Wiring Diagram is on page 30 of this PDF. http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/98000-98999/98706.pdf
Thanks for any help.
Ken

Old___Slow
Explorer
Explorer
mrfixit454 wrote:
"The float needle is and always will be a potential failure point on gravity feed fuel systems that have several gallons of gasoline pushing down on them.

Of course, all one needs to do is turn off the petcock as directed and warned in the manual to almost totally reduce the incidence of leakage."
"

Have you guys considered an electric fuel transfer pump to avoid the gravity feed/needle and seat issue? a remote tank outside the "cave" could be used. A tank system kind of like the toyhaulers. The concern then becomes whether or not you want to be having dinner with a tank under you!



Ok, I get it. Need to turn the petcock off after using the genset. But, could you give us more info' and link to a 'electric fuel transfer pump' And how would that effect the gravity feed/needle seat? Safety is a wonderful thing.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
mrfixit454 wrote:


I have since talked to my brother-in-law who is a PM at a underground fuel tank construction compnay and he says they use that type of plastic for venting all the time but not for continuous direct fluid contact, so I guess I should not be concerned.

Fixit


It is nice to have that second statement of suitability for PVC. I was not overly concerned having used it for plumbing on my fuel transfer tank in the TV and as a vent pipe on a gas furnace. Schedule 40 PVC is pretty dog gone tough stuff and extremel resistant to everything but heat over 140 degrees F and MEK based solvents.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

mrfixit454
Explorer
Explorer
professor95 wrote:
mrfixit454 wrote:
but is there a way to plug up the vent holes/slots in the original cap so you don't have to drill the tank? Or is this simply impossible?


Possibly. But I would not want a tank that was permanently unvented.



Sorry Professor, I assumed you knew I meeant the vent would be added to the metal cap as well, just like the plastic. My concern was using plastic, thus buying a second metal cap and modifying it just like you did. I should have been more clear.

I have since talked to my brother-in-law who is a PM at a underground fuel tank construction compnay and he says they use that type of plastic for venting all the time but not for continuous direct fluid contact, so I guess I should not be concerned.

Fixit
2012 Lance 830 w/Tent Option
2006 2500 Dodge Ram Megacab, Cummins, Auto.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
Now what happens when you have the alt on the truck making power and also the converter? Will that cause issues? I was thinking of putting a relay in there to break the connection from the truck when the 5er has 110. maybe I am just over thinking things again...


its 12-14 vdc.. yes you over thinking, there is NO conflict, no problem with having (2) charging systems on the same batteries


As an example: My converter and solar charge controller are both connected to my battery bank when plugged into shore power. The charge load is actually shared between the two systems, depending on battery internal resistance (charge state).

You can also order larger tow vehicles with dual alternators - no problems with charging there as the load is shared between the two alternators.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Now what happens when you have the alt on the truck making power and also the converter? Will that cause issues? I was thinking of putting a relay in there to break the connection from the truck when the 5er has 110. maybe I am just over thinking things again...


its 12-14 vdc.. yes you over thinking, there is NO conflict, no problem with having (2) charging systems on the same batteries
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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1997 F53 Bounder 36s