Kenper wrote:
I am not sure where the regulator is. I have a black rectanguler box on the end of the Gen head that looks like it's not adjustable. It's in the gen Head picture on Flikr. Unfortunately I can only check this site from work at night then go look at the Gen the next day. I haven't noticed any other wiring so I'm sure that's it. I will have to unbolt it to see if there's any adjustment on it. My meter is accurate so I am apparently sending 140 volts to the TT. Luckily the weather has been pretty mild so I haven't run it much. I have solar panels for the day to day stuff like TV. I stay in the TT 4 days a week for work so I don't want to fry anything.
On a side note, I pretty much live in my trailer half the time. In the summer the solar panels keep me charged up. In the winter they can't keep up. Would it be worth it to buy one of the little 800 watt genny's for lights, TV, heater fan (propane) and battery charging in the winter? They should use a lot less gas.
I had forgotten about the photos on Fliker. I just got thru looking again.
The rectangular thing is most likely an AVR, just a different shape than I am familiar with. There are too many wires going in and out for it to be a capacitor. The one below is the most common style of AVR in Chinese generators. The voltage adjustment screw is on the back side as shown. It is a 10 turn adjuster, so don't give up at 270 degrees of movement.
Take your rectangular thing loose and look at the opposite side. Keep your fingers crossed that it has an adjustment.
140 volts is not the best level to have, but fortunately it is more damaging to incandescent light bulbs than anything else. Your TV and other electronic devices most likely have a "switching" power supply and will work safely off of 140 VAC. A/C should be OK too - just a higher fan speed. Still, you need to get the voltage down to 132 or less to be absolutely sure you don't burn up the toaster or hair dryer.
Have you checked engine speed? Over speed can also create overvoltage as well as a high frequency (depending on regulator type). Back off on the governor adjustment screw a turn or two and check voltage again. It would be better to have 50 to 55Hz and 130 VAC than 60 to 65 Hz and 140 VAC.
Man, I wish you were closer. I could check that little bugger out and get it to where it is suppose to be in no time if I could get my hands on it for just an hour or so. (Voltage, RPM/frequency and power level)
As for the little generator..... I also have solar panels (300 watts) that can feed either the house or aux side of the battery banks. The house side has two 127 Ah AGM batteries, the aux has four of the same and connects to the inverter for TV, microwave, etc. The little generator will help to recharge batteries during the dark months - just be sure you are using the 120 volt AC out to run a 3 or 4 stage charger and not charging directly from a generator DC output. My little gennys are either a Kawasaki 1400 or a Kipor 2000Ti (my choice). But truthfully, I use no more fuel with the installed Champion when recharging than I do with the smaller gensets. Power is power and load is load - with a 70 amp charger on the aux side and a 65 amp on the house side the little gennys are working pretty hard to charge - thus under more load and using more than normal fuel. When using the Champion it is less than 1/2 load and it just purrs along and sips fuel.
I sure am learning - your model genny has features I have not yet seen. I will need to dig a little deeper to find out what is being used.
Please keep us posted as to what you discover on the AVR thing.
Seafoam is a great product. I have used it for years in my Evinrude 2-stroke outboard motor.
I have recently started using two other products that are giving me excellent results. The B-12 is used like Seafoam. It has the same ingredients and the cost is about 1/2 that of Seafoam.
The other is Blaster LMT. Awsome product!!! I sprayed it into the 3 cylinders on my Evinrude this spring as directed. When I started the motor the amount of black goo and crud running out the exhaust was unexpected. It really cleaned out the residue.
I used it last night on my Honda WX-10 water pump engine. It is time to drain and clean the pool (done!) It really made a difference in how the engine ran after the treatment.
Seafoam, B-12 and Blaster LMT are all good products for keeping the internal parts of your Chinese 3000 watt class generator clean. Of course, the LMT is only good as a top engine cleaner as it does not run through the carburetor jets. But, it cleans the top of the engine fast and pretty darn good.
I do not have a light scope but do have a small pinhole CCD camera I have modified so I can poke it inside a spark plug hole. The camera when used with a fiber optic light help me to see what is inside a cylinder.
As some may know I have been using water/alcohol (-22 windshield washer fluid) injection on the 454 gas engine for over a year now. It allows me to run the Hypertech power program on regular 87 octane gas. I can promise you there is not a cleaner set of cylinders on a gas engine anywhere - unless it is new. The water has removed all carbon and EGR residue. An old trick is to remove the air filter on a small engine and spray water into the intake while the engine is running - just enough to prevent stalling. The water will break loose any carbon. It does take numerous sprays over a period of 10-15 minutes to get results. Be careful - too much water can cause engine damage. Water does not compress like the A/F mixture!
Generally, the spark plug tells the story. Learn how to "read" a plug by its color. It can tell you the state of the engine very quickly. Unfortunately, with 100,000 miles bewtween plug changes this is becoming a forgotten skill.
I have recently started using two other products that are giving me excellent results. The B-12 is used like Seafoam. It has the same ingredients and the cost is about 1/2 that of Seafoam.
The other is Blaster LMT. Awsome product!!! I sprayed it into the 3 cylinders on my Evinrude this spring as directed. When I started the motor the amount of black goo and crud running out the exhaust was unexpected. It really cleaned out the residue.
I used it last night on my Honda WX-10 water pump engine. It is time to drain and clean the pool (done!) It really made a difference in how the engine ran after the treatment.
Seafoam, B-12 and Blaster LMT are all good products for keeping the internal parts of your Chinese 3000 watt class generator clean. Of course, the LMT is only good as a top engine cleaner as it does not run through the carburetor jets. But, it cleans the top of the engine fast and pretty darn good.
I do not have a light scope but do have a small pinhole CCD camera I have modified so I can poke it inside a spark plug hole. The camera when used with a fiber optic light help me to see what is inside a cylinder.
As some may know I have been using water/alcohol (-22 windshield washer fluid) injection on the 454 gas engine for over a year now. It allows me to run the Hypertech power program on regular 87 octane gas. I can promise you there is not a cleaner set of cylinders on a gas engine anywhere - unless it is new. The water has removed all carbon and EGR residue. An old trick is to remove the air filter on a small engine and spray water into the intake while the engine is running - just enough to prevent stalling. The water will break loose any carbon. It does take numerous sprays over a period of 10-15 minutes to get results. Be careful - too much water can cause engine damage. Water does not compress like the A/F mixture!
Generally, the spark plug tells the story. Learn how to "read" a plug by its color. It can tell you the state of the engine very quickly. Unfortunately, with 100,000 miles bewtween plug changes this is becoming a forgotten skill.
