90 degree SAE to MC4 connector?

[CAJW]

I'm finishing a rooftop solar install on my truck camper and have an OEM flush mount (on roof) SAE 2 lead plug wired to the factory wiring. I purchased the only SAE (10ga.) to MC4 adapter I could find, but it's a straight SAE plug and when plugged into the OEM flush mount plug, it sticks up in the breeze a good 6". The stiff 10 ga. solar wire attached to the MC4 connectors puts strain on the SAE plug and I anticipate an early failure of that plug due to the strain placed on it by the heavy wire.

I've searched for such a right angle SAE plug, but no luck so far, nor could I find this being discussed here. I know many will respond that I should just go ahead and install a junction box, but I don't want to drill any additional holes in my roof and surely I cannot be the only one that could use a right angle plug. I succeeded in getting the panel mounted on the luggage rack without drilling any holes in the roof and shouldn't have to drill more holes, just to connect the wiring.

If anyone knows where to source such a connector, I'm all ears.
Thanks

[shelbyfv]

I think he has just the one panel.

[time2roll]

MC4 connectors come in parallel to connect multiple panels to a single wire.

[shelbyfv]

I'm probably missing something obvious, but why not make a short length of cable(s) with SAE on one end and MC4s on the other. Would serve the same purpose as your adapter but would lie flat on the roof.

[hedge]

not sure I've seen a ready made box like you're looking for. AM solar has some nice ones but don't think they have MC4 connectors.

Easy enough to build yourself though out of a standard plastic junction box available at any home center. Below is the one I made, just epoxied in the terminal strips and then drilled holes to add the mc4 connectors and the outgoing heavier gauge wire.

can't seem to post the pic but it's the second pic in this thread.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29071756.cfm

[CAJW]

Ok, on to plan B. I'm now planning on replacing the OEM SAE connector on my roof with a junction box. My search for a box with my criteria seems to be coming up short, so maybe the collective here has a suggestion. In a perfect workd it would have:

Removablw weatherproof lid
Hole in bottom for wiring
Terminal strip to connect 10ga. wires
MC4 male & female connectors wired to terminal strip
Room for future expansion to add additional panels

Something like this looks interesting, but not sure how the diodes will work with my system?
Ebay box

System components in order of connection: (all 10 ga. wiring)
Renogy 150W panel w/ inline 15A fuse
30A BlueSea circuit breaker (at controller)
Trimetric SC -2030 controller (connected to Trimetric TM -2030 battery monitor)
30A fuse, then to batteries

[time2roll]

I would remove the SAE connector.

http://gpelectric.com/products/cable-entry-plate

[landyacht318]

My SAE 12v plugs were so problematic I eliminated them nearly completely, in favor of Anderson powerpoles in the 45 amp flavor.

The problems were high resistance developed quickly, leading to heatng and melting when passing 20 amps.

Even at lesser amperages, it was just a matter of time, and connection/ disconnection cycles before intermittent failures became common and would cause a curse fest.

My exterior powerpoles exposed to weather, I sealed the back ends where the wires enter with 'amazing goop' and fill the contact cavities with dielectric grease before mating them. I use some thin stainless wire to lock them closed, but they sell ridiculously overpriced special locks for that purpose

45 amp powerpoles can take 10AWG wire, but are not so easy to crimp properly without their special tool though.

SAE 10 gauge is 6 to 12% thinner than 10 AWG.

Good luck on you 90 degree SAE quest. I would personally pursue other avenues.

[hedge]

If you can find the SAE plug in a 90, adding the mc4 ends on it is trivial.

I originally wired my panels to my OEM SAE connector by building my own plug, mine was installed in the fridge vent so it came out horizontally so I didn't need the 90.

I don't believe the SAE plug is strictly waterproof either so I'd consider adding some tape at least or something around the connection to make it more weatherproof.

Below is a link to another install where the OP hollowed out the plug and used it to run the wire inside without adding any new holes which I thought was pretty clever.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27976350.cfm