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Converter/Charger

3Lakes_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
I'm trying to get a handle on how to properly charge my two new Trojan T-105's. I'm replacing two Deka Intimidator AGM,s that are 7 years old. Trojan recommends a Staged charger, with specific voltage and amps. My 2002 Hurricane has a Fortron Power SRV series converter with a 13.6 +/-0.2 VDC output. Should I expect this converter to keep these batteries in proper charge and condition? I will only use the motorhome 2-3 times a year, for 2-3 weeks at a time.
30 REPLIES 30

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
3Lakes Steve wrote:
CA Traveler- Is that a piece of copper water pipe? Yes
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

3Lakes_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
CA Traveler- Is that a piece of copper water pipe? This may work for me, as this is a temporary set-up until the weather warms up, and I can complete my new wiring. I'm leaving for Texas next week on my first trip with the MH.

The plan is to use the living room cabinet for the new converter, a 300W inverter, and the cheapo Chinese meter. This cabinet is directly above the battery bay, which has room to add an enclosure box to house
the bus bars, shunt, a few fuses, and a main disconnect. At that point, only 1 set of cables will run to the batteries.

smkettner- I have 2 lugs on the positive terminal now, I'm thinking 1 is the engine alternator, and the other to the DC fuse panel. The top of the stud barely gets through the nut.
Steve

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Here are two terminals with three on one post.



BTW I have not cleaned these posts since installed in January 2006.
Wingnuts are stainless.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
A flattened piece of copper pipe and copper bolts makes an excellent bus bar. Here's a bus bar that supports a battery monitor shunt. And just so you know this shunt and the Trimetric battery monitor cost me $0 on the current rig. Well OK it cost more than that on the last rig. :B

2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
The fewer the terminals at the battery the fewer there are to corrode. Reconstructing a half dozen terminations is a bummer. Chew on this: Battery replacement time. Two cables versus the three that fall hidden behind the batteries. A buss bar is a touch of common sense

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Not sure #2 will fit the converter terminals. #4 would be fine.

Yes just disconnect 120v power from the old converter.

Three lugs should fit... depends on the lugs.

Fan should mostly stay off unless heavy charging or lots of incandescent lights are on. Should be off when sleeping.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
3Lakes Steve wrote:
Getting ready to mount the new converter, I have a spot about 4'from the battery bank that I think would work, and better than the current location of 20'.

My thought was to run new 2 awg to the batteries, and leave the existing cables to the old converter in place. I would just unplug it and leave as a backup?

My Trojan batteries have a stud on top, but don't think it's tall enough for 3 lugs. Any Ideas?

The converter will be in living room, in a small table/cabinet above the battery bay. Do you think fan noise will be a problem?

Thanks, Steve


You can use a bus bar when running out of battery post height. Run the bus bar to the battery post and attach the other wires to the bus bar terminals.

Yes, the existing wire from battery to DC fuse panel will also work for your deck mounted converter near the batteries to reach the DC fuse panel
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

3Lakes_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
Getting ready to mount the new converter, I have a spot about 4'from the battery bank that I think would work, and better than the current location of 20'.

My thought was to run new 2 awg to the batteries, and leave the existing cables to the old converter in place. I would just unplug it and leave as a backup?

My Trojan batteries have a stud on top, but don't think it's tall enough for 3 lugs. Any Ideas?

The converter will be in living room, in a small table/cabinet above the battery bay. Do you think fan noise will be a problem?

Thanks, Steve

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
3Lakes Steve wrote:
Went shopping on E-Bay last night, Decided on American made PD9260C with pendant, $175 delivered. Chinese 5-40V, 0-300A Battery monitor from Elite.Element, $38.80 to my door. Looks like it provides all the info and parts of the more expensive units, hope it works. also picked up 12 1156, 27 LED replacement bulbs for $2.00 ea.

Going to have to do some stretching exercise before I install, The RV engineers worked hard to put the electrical systems in the most inaccessible areas.

Thank for the help
Steve


2 plus one comments

First comment: Re the 9200.. I have done some serious research into converters and a better one I have yet to find, Congrats.

Now the plus one: Re the China stuff, I can not comment as I have not either researched or used that (OH, I have a 9180 with chrage wizard, makes it into a 9280 with pendent for all practical uses).

Comment two: Re: "Let's make it hard to service"

I think they hold a contest and the one who does the best job of making a service technician cuss gets the prize.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer
60 amps on a pair of 225's... bam! That'll git'er done.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
3Lakes Steve wrote:
I will definitely be using the RV for 3-7 day off pedestal camping.
I would avoid the PowerMax as it does not hold boost voltage into absorption. Fast charging to about 75% only.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
3Lakes Steve wrote:
Went shopping on E-Bay last night, Decided on American made PD9260C with pendant, $175 delivered. Chinese 5-40V, 0-300A Battery monitor from Elite.Element, $38.80 to my door. Looks like it provides all the info and parts of the more expensive units, hope it works. also picked up 12 1156, 27 LED replacement bulbs for $2.00 ea.

Going to have to do some stretching exercise before I install, The RV engineers worked hard to put the electrical systems in the most inaccessible areas.

Thank for the help
Steve


Good choices. You are going to be a happy camper!
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

3Lakes_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
Went shopping on E-Bay last night, Decided on American made PD9260C with pendant, $175 delivered. Chinese 5-40V, 0-300A Battery monitor from Elite.Element, $38.80 to my door. Looks like it provides all the info and parts of the more expensive units, hope it works. also picked up 12 1156, 27 LED replacement bulbs for $2.00 ea.

Going to have to do some stretching exercise before I install, The RV engineers worked hard to put the electrical systems in the most inaccessible areas.

Thank for the help
Steve