cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

DREAMING. Controlled Shower Water Temp

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
This goes as well in a stick and brick.

"I think I want a 103F shower today"

Tap-tap-tap with a finger

Green light comes on...

Perfect...

(sigh)
23 REPLIES 23

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Mex
if there is almost no water flow in the afternoon from the pipes
i think the only 'way' for the pump will help
is if you place it at the output of the water heater or in that water line inside the house
once the tank is pumped empty, the reservoir is gone,
i'm not sure the pump will help with low pressure from the city side
if there is low flow from the city side
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

free_radical
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
This goes as well in a stick and brick.

"I think I want a 103F shower today"

Tap-tap-tap with a finger

Green light comes on...

Perfect...

(sigh)


Something like this?

https://youtu.be/DftrVQiFnMo

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
The medical hideout has a foot thick concrete wall covered with 6" ceramic tile. Typical Mexico aptitude.

Copper hot water pipe passing through eleven feet of concrete. Adjusting shower temperature in the winter resembles Ming The Magnificent tuning in his long range visual spying machine. Twenty adjustments.

But I need to boost water pressure at least to 8 PSI. At three in the morning, it is OK. After work it is a dribble. I hate to put a dime into this place but it is no joke that many times, showering means standing under a dribble. Wonder if an RV pump would work? I have lots of power supplies.

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
This goes as well in a stick and brick.

"I think I want a 103F shower today"

Tap-tap-tap with a finger

Green light comes on...

Perfect...

(sigh)


I installed an automatic hot/cold water mixer control in our stick-and-brick master bath decades ago when we built it. No electricity involved - so no absolute temperatue number on it's twist knob - just find a knob position that feels good and use it the rest of your life.

It does it's shower water temperature control thing regardless of system water pressure and regardless of how many other faucets in the house are running. It still works as well as the day I installed it. It wasn't inexpensive though ... quality never is ... you just have to figure out how to pay for it.

Boy, I sure wish there existed a version of this suitable for RV showers - that worked as well as the one in our stick house and without having to rip into the shower stall wall to install it!
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Turns out I will need 2 booster pumps because my water pressure can be measured in ounces per square yard. This is in a stick and brick.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
thanks for link to the off set adapters
but my wall is too shallow
would need to cut the shower stall and then add a box/raised housing, for increased depth

guess i will keep using it the way it is
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

CJW8
Explorer
Explorer
Thermostatic Valve

adjustable offsets
2003 Forest River Sierra M-37SP Toy Hauler- Traded in
2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS 5th wheel toy Hauler (sold)
2004 Winnebago Vectra. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
Mr Wiz - now I see what you mean.

I'm not a plumber, but small brass adapters/offsets might not be necessary. PEX pipes can be pulled back and or forth and to the side - a lot. When I moved my kitchen sink, I bought flexible supply lines and fittings because new location of sink was several inches sideways from PEX pipes. But - with some effort - was able to pull the pipes right there.

When the wall is too shallow, this mixer won't fit even without brass adapters... or you could make a box on the shower wall. Just an idea.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Almot
he has a box on shower stall wall enclosing, the shower valve
it also seems a necessity because that wall is the outside wall of the RV

my shower wall fittings are the side backed against the bedroom inside wall
and the water lines are inside the bedroom wall
the faucet fitting is right against the stall wall
remove cover in bedroom to gain access to water lines
those offsets would never fit in my wall and allow connecting the water lines pex fittings, everything assembled would be too deep for my wall

this one is new replaced about 4 months ago, but not thermostatic temp adjust
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Almot wrote:
If I set water heater lower, I will need to mix more hot water in, and will run out of hot water sooner. Unless I misunderstood Time2roll.
Yeh more for the stick and brick, as mentioned in the OP, were I have 75 gallons.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
Mr Wiz, brass adapters are included with the fixture. They bring the spacing from 6 " to a little over 4", not quite 4". Then you pull original PEX pipes in the wall slightly wider to match the adapters. Here is the video that explains the install:

Thermostatic Shower Valve Install.

I don't know why you need access from the other side of the wall, maybe your plumbing is different.

He already had the "box" on the wall, many trailers don't, I know people had to cut the PEX pipes shorter and use Shrakbite fittings.

If I set water heater lower, I will need to mix more hot water in, and will run out of hot water sooner. Unless I misunderstood Time2roll.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
unless i make a bigger hole in the wall in the bedroom for the access hatch
i can't use the 6" center
the existing hatch plate, does not allow enough access for 6" centers
a plate in the shower will not change that

i don't plan on enlarging the hole in the bedroom wall

if you have a link to those 'little elbows'
please post it, i haven't found anything the right size
to work with out butchering the wall and shower stall
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Easier to get the mix right if you turn your water heater down closer to the desired temperature.
Otherwise get something like pictured above.
Not rocket science.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
wa8yxm wrote:
Re the 4" centers. You may notice the one in the photo was mounted on kind of a box..

HDPE cutting board. Behind the board (I think) are little elbows to bring it from 6" to RV 4", this is in another guy's trailer. This one is without a bathtub faucet, but they come with faucets too, google for Cherry Juilt Thermostatic Bathroom Shower Mixer Valve.

Quality... about as that of a cheap Walmart or Home Depot diverter, 15% DOD, the rest work, until they don't. You still need to twist the knob while holding the red button to change/make it hotter. Not really tap-tap, "Alexa, 108F please and one martini stirred not shaken".