Electrical Issues 2006 Coachman Captiva 265

[exp2ex]

Got to the campsite today. Got her all set up and have a few issues.
First off the frig will not cool at all and the check light comes on.
That has never happened before.

Next, The AC or fan will not run, and the lights are all dim and the more I turn on the dimmer they all get.

The GFCI next to the converted will pop a few seconds after I push the frig on button.

no breakers are popped and no fuses are blown.

If I click the breaker for the AC off then on I can get it to run in cool and just fan mode.

I just installed a new battery a few weeks ago.

So this is not my forte so to speak but I can't stand it when things don't work.

My first thought is that there is a issue with the converter.

So any and all help would be appreciated.

Thank you, Chip

[westend]

Some battery chargers will not charge a depleted battery.

You will need a working meter to correctly diagnose your 12 V issues.

Knowledge bits: 12 V side of life

Battery University

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Smart Trickle Charger / Flat Battery

=

Water Pistol versus Forest Fire

You need a genuine charger for an overly discharged battery.

[exp2ex]

UPDATE !
So looks like my new battery is completely destroyed. I removed in from the rv and put on a smart trickle charger overnight and can't get it over 7 volts. My old battery would at least hold 8.5v.

I put the old battery in to see if the interior lights would at least work. I pulled out the breakers to check for corrosion, there is none. I put them back in and the fan & AC would turn on. Then I turned the lights on and they were very dim and the ac/fan stopped.

All the 12v fuses have good continuity and all the C/Hammer breakers seem to be working fine.

Got me a volt meter from harbor freight. It is defective. One wire has no continuity. YEA !

So for a break down. I need a trouble shooting guide for the converter.
Step by step instructions to run through before I buy a new inverter.
The one I have now is a : WFO WF-8955AN

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Gad do I EVER need a 27 hour day 🙂

WFO's make excellent bench-top power supplies. Wish I had more of them. Strip off their fur coat and blow in their ear.

[CJW8]

You need a volt meter to trouble shoot this. Low priced meters can be found at Harbor Freight Tools, Walmart or even Sears. If your lights are very dim, you have likely taken your new battery down to below 10-11 volts which has removed some life from your new battery.

Until you can fix or replace your converter, put a multi stage 30-40 amp charger on your battery ASAP to get it's voltage up. The longer it sits at less than 12 volts the more it is damaged.

I wouldn't bother fixing the WFCO converter. They are not known to be very battery friendly especially if you leave your camper plugged in 27/7.

Since you are not well versed on electrical, I'd take it to an RV dealer and have the WFCO replaced with a 40 Progressive Dynamics converter.

[DrewE]

exp2ex wrote:
A little update. I took the cover off the converter to check all the wiring. Everything looked good. I removed the 40 amp fuses and when I put the top one back in the entire camper powered up. Everything from slideout to ac. Then I wiggled it again and all shut down.

There must be a loose connection somewhere on the DC panel, then. I would guess that maybe the solder connections to the fuse holders for the 40A fuses (and quite possibly others) are dry or cracked or otherwise bad, though it could be the main wire connections being loose.

Disconnect the battery and the AC supply, and remove the inner front cover on the distribution panel, and it should be pretty straightforward to remove the DC fuse panel to check things out. It would be an excellent idea to label the wires going to the DC fuses with their slot numbers if they are not already so identified so you can get them back to the right positions.

[exp2ex]

A little update. I took the cover off the converter to check all the wiring. Everything looked good. I removed the 40 amp fuses and when I put the top one back in the entire camper powered up. Everything from slideout to ac. Then I wiggled it again and all shut down.

[exp2ex]

I tried to get a photo loaded up but this is the best I can do.

Here is the link to the photos of converter etc...

http://www.snapfish.com/library/share?w=snapfish_us&c=snapfish&l=en_US#7t2RuGrmv5puQByqz5D9GQ/AUS/27939640738070/SNAPFISH

[exp2ex]

Found the ground cable that attaches to the frame next to the battery to be incorrectly crimped and loose inside the terminal end. I re crimped it, cleaned it and reinstalled the cable. Did not fix anything. I am thinking the battery is drained so the charger is on it now. FUN !
My converter is a WFCO 40 amp. All connections and fuses look good.

[exp2ex]

2006 coachmen captiva 265ex.
I'll be able to check it out a little bit more today when I get it home but sure is going to stink hand cranking in that slide out. Some of the outlets continued to work and even the microwave even though the interior lights slide-out fridge AC bathroom fan continue to not work

[MEXICOWANDERER]

A bad converter will not cause instant 12 volt problems after a long "The Alternator" drive.

[fischer]

Your converter could be bad
Dim lights means your battery is weak
What rig do you have We can help if know this
Check the ground on your chassis battery mine is bolted to the frame
You can add your rig to your profile like below

[exp2ex]

I do not believe that has ever happened. I replaced the battery simply by removing the cables and re connecting the cables to the new battery. I might add that the camper has it's own 40 amp service that it is always connected to at our home.

[mobilefleet]

converter should have reverse connection fuses to protect it in case when you were hooking up battery you accidentally touched wrong cables (ie pos to neg and vice versa, or touched a ground with pos side when connected etc).