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Galvanized Sheet Metal- Wax? Spray? Update

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Update 8 June

I read up on this and there are several suggestions, not too clear though. Anybody got something that works for sure, please pass it along. Thanks.

OK I put a sheet of galvanized sheet metal as the insert fridge door dรฉcor in the used Dometic 7401L we got (the original insert was gone)for the truck camper. I used that instead of plastic so it would hold fridge magnets. ๐Ÿ™‚

Hands get black stuff on them from the metal as is. Apparently you can clean that off but it comes right back. One idea was to use car paste wax on it just after you clean it? Or is there an easy peasy spray you can use and it will make a seal cover to stop the black stuff getting on your hands? What about maybe that clear spray that goes on top of car paint spray? Would that "hold?"

If nothing works Plan B is to put a plastic or counter top laminate insert on top of the steel insert but there is not much thickness room to get another insert in. (the magnets should still work I guess)
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
13 REPLIES 13

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Update-- I sprayed the PlastiKote car paint clear top coat stuff on the galvanized door panel I made (which I first wiped down with mineral spirits) using lots of clear coat. A month later it is still good. No stuff on the fingers, and the fridge magnets hold nicely.

Luckily the "new" fridge door matches the 1981 metal range hood and oven door, which are now back in fashion anyway!

I think I got away with it. ๐Ÿ™‚

BTW that used Dometic 7401L has turned out to be a really nice little fridge for a small RV! They did that one right.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I will probably go with the no-work Plan B as this is all too much bother for me. ๐Ÿ˜ž

I did try some clear coat car paint spray I had left over from a job I did, which is why I asked about that. Just sprayed some (it is called "plasti-kote" and says it is an acrylic lacquer) on the as-is metal (no cleaning or primer first) yesterday. This morning it is dry and no grey-black stuff gets on your fingers rubbing it, which you do get on the as-is metal.

Seems way too easy to be true. I wonder if it will stay like that very long.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
Muriatic acid can be used to strip off the galvanizing. It's readily available and used quite often for cleaning concrete. It's also used for adjusting PH of swimming pools. Make sure to do this outdoors. You will need something that you can lay the sheet metal into and cover the sheet with acid. It will work quickly. Once the galvanizing is gone, pour a mixture of water and baking soda over the panel to neutralize the acid then rinse with water.

An interesting experiment is to file the copper edge off a penny then drop it into muriatic acid. The acid will eat up the center zinc and leave the copper intact.
Tom
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westend
Explorer
Explorer
Spray, roll, or brush on a galvanized steel friendly primer and top coat it with color of choice.
I like Sherwin Williams DTM Industrial Primer but I buy it in gallons, only, and it isn't cheap. Any auto-body shop or hardware store should have galvanized steel primer in small quantities and/or spray cans.
My experience with galvanized steel is that left unpainted, will still make your hands dirty and any wax will deteriorate over time so that constant maintenance will not be trivial.

BTW, I have a galvanized steel boat in my yard that is 80 years old and rust free. That is the one good attribute of a good galvanic process, it won't rust.
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BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Chris Bryant wrote:
Why not replace it with plain steel sheet- you can easily paint that- it's just the galvanizing that is the problem.


Yes I made a mistake, but now I spent the money so I am looking for at a way-around. Plan B is only another $7 and no real work involved, but I will try the other ways except that big job as posted above. Yipes to that. ๐Ÿ˜ž
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
Why not replace it with plain steel sheet- you can easily paint that- it's just the galvanizing that is the problem.
-- Chris Bryant

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
B.O. Plenty wrote:
Why not replace it with wood, plastic, laminate or aluminum. Is it that important to have refrigerator magnets sticking to it??

B.O.


No fridge magnets, no DW! She has priorities (as do they all) ๐Ÿ™‚
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
Why not replace it with wood, plastic, laminate or aluminum. Is it that important to have refrigerator magnets sticking to it??

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
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2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks, it does seem like a lot of work to leave it as is and clean it every so often. Not going to happen.

I have the extra bits of sheet metal from cutting the 2 x 3 to fit the door, so I will try the various ideas (sticky paper, various sprays) on that spare sheet metal and see how that goes. If no joy, I will go to Plan B
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Galvanized sheet metal is good for various uses BUT is a high maintenance item IF you want to keep it clean and looking good.

Zinc Oxide is used so it is reactive just like an anode rod in water heater so routine cleaning of surface will help the zinc oxide strong and intact.

Gallon of HOT water----1/4 dish sop mixed in
Soft bristle brush.....clean surface in small swirling motions, start at a top corner and work across back/forth
(Hard water stains.....water/white vinegar on soft rag---scrub stain)

Now treat for alkaline deposits
Mix 1 part baby powder and 2 parts MILK
Scrub surface top to bottom with small brush

RINSE....
Several rinsing to make sure ALL residues/cleaning solutions are removed

DRY....
Soft rags. Rub down to COMPLETELY remove ALL moisture

WAX....
Metal Polish or paste wax
Work in small sections....rub on in circular motions starting in top corner and work across then down
Apply, let dry/skim...buff off-----SMALL Sections

WAX takes lots of time and elbow grease

Don't see why a 'spray wax' couldn't be used ....like Turtle or McQuires
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US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Zinc chromate is the recommended tie coat between a galvanized surface and top coat. I did not recommend this to Naio because she will not be handling the part.

You are dealing with inevitable oxidation of zinc.

Cleaning off oxides in preparation to use adhesive is a chore. Chris Bryant's excellent suggestion can be tested by applying a swatch. Do not stick all of the liner hard and fast. Press half like a permanent application then yank on the free half and see if that peels off the pressed-on half too easy.

School of hard knocks with my Vest Frosts. BTW cheap liners are worth less than they cost. Those that use 3M adhesive are better.

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
I wonder if a stick on shelf liner type material would stick.
-- Chris Bryant

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
I'd suggest spraying it with a clear coat of some kind. Krylon etc.

I don't think paste wax or any coating like that will keep it from discoloring. Zinc is pretty reactive.
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