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Gathering parts to refine my solar

Vintage465
Nomad
Nomad
I have a new combiner box to gather up my three 150w panels. Prolly going parallel to start with. In my current set up of two 150w panels in parallel there is no fusing before the controller or between the controller and the batteries. Reading a document by Renogy regarding fusing they recommend one at the combiner box and between the controller and the batteries. Makes sense to me. The fusing size doesn't really seem difficult to figure out.
My question is:
1. Having this nice sized wire then throwing in a fuse really sizes down the wire size for the distance of the fuse. Yes it's only an inch but it is about 25% the size that the 8ga. conductor is that will be carrying the voltage and amps to the controller.
2. Will using a circuit breaker remove the "choke down" of the fuse?
3. Or is this like seriously not something to be concerned with?

Thoughts?
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!
8 REPLIES 8

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
There are good reasons to have a switch, and no good reasons to have a fuse or breaker between the panels and the controller.

Vintage465 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Or do not fuse at all. A switch would perhaps be more useful. Just make sure it is DC rated.


When you say switch, are you referring to a circuit breaker? A straight up switch won't protect anything...........right?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

ppine
Explorer II
Explorer II
The smart thing to do is fuse both runs. From the batteries to the controller use a resetable 40 amp fuse block. It will not "choke" your current at all. From the s panels, use an in line fuse that connects with wc4s. Don't give it a second thought.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
I don't think it's critical to fuse panel wire.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
You should fuse the wire from controller to battery. No need to fuse between panels and combiner or from combiner to controller with the three 150s in parallel. (It can be different with them in series, "depending") This guide has it all--worth a study.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/technical-literatur...

However some controllers like Morningstar don't like it when they are connected to the array but not to a battery. So to make sure that does not happen, you install a switch (that you can get at--so near the controller, not on the roof) between combiner and controller.

When swapping out your battery you use the switch first and last After re-installing the battery you let the controller see what voltage the battery is at--as required for a "12/24" controller, then re-connect to the array.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Vintage465
Nomad
Nomad
BFL13 wrote:
Your panels can put out approx. 30 amps, and #8 can handle about 50 amps. You fuse to protect the wire, so maybe a 40amp fuse.

The 40 amp fuse will not "choke" 30 amps. #8 should be also good for RV size lengths at 30 amps.


Great! Thanks,
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

Vintage465
Nomad
Nomad
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Or do not fuse at all. A switch would perhaps be more useful. Just make sure it is DC rated.


When you say switch, are you referring to a circuit breaker? A straight up switch won't protect anything...........right?
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

Or do not fuse at all. A switch would perhaps be more useful. Just make sure it is DC rated.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Your panels can put out approx. 30 amps, and #8 can handle about 50 amps. You fuse to protect the wire, so maybe a 40amp fuse.

The 40 amp fuse will not "choke" 30 amps. #8 should be also good for RV size lengths at 30 amps.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.