Golf Cart Question...

[JAXFL]

I'm stumped. I have an older cart that I've had for two years, but only took it out about 4 times. Now the grand kids want it so I am trying to get it ready. Batteries (T-50)are of an unknown age and went all the way down over this last year. I have now charged each separately and 5 of the 6 show 6.78v and #6 is at 5.55. I then connected the cart charger and all seems good.... 35.43v and it actually moved forward and back, and then very very slowly forward about 30 feet and won't go any further. Stepping on the pedal it tries to move but lacks enough power. I plugged it in again and after it was charged again it moved about 75 feet then again no power to move. I recharged it and let it set over night.... The 5 batteries are reading 6.67 and the 6th is at 5.25v....Is this 1 battery causing the problem or is it more serious? should I spend $500+ for 6 batteries?

Your input please....

Thank you for your time and thoughts...

[westend]

JAXFL wrote:

spadoctor wrote:
If it has a digital control there are no resistors and no clicking sounds....the OP should post the make and serial number to get good advice

There is no name on it any where and I have no clue were the serial number would be.

It looks the same as an E-ZGo cart. There is also nothing that is digital on it except the power light that goes from 0 - F.

What color is the body (for identification)?
There should also be a rating plate on the cart somewhere.

One bad battery could mean a no-go situation. If there is a cell shorted, when the throttle control is engaged the bad battery will suck power from the others. With a solid state speed controller, the symptoms will be just as described because of the under-voltage situation. Replace the bad battery to confirm.

The really older carts had a series string of solenoid relays and those would move with failing batteries. Newer carts, not so much because of the solid state speed controllers.

If the cart was put into storage, previously, in a low charge state, it's probably best to replace all the batteries.

On the other hand, my kids had an older cart with bulging batteries that would only run for a short while at slow speed and then would stall. They either waited for some time until the batteries recovered or pushed it home. They seemed contented to operate it like that and I wasn't going to spend the dough on a new set of batteries for a battered-up, old golf cart.

[JAXFL]

spadoctor wrote:
If it has a digital control there are no resistors and no clicking sounds....the OP should post the make and serial number to get good advice

There is no name on it any where and I have no clue were the serial number would be.

It looks the same as an E-ZGo cart. There is also nothing that is digital on it except the power light that goes from 0 - F.

[spadoctor]

If it has a digital control there are no resistors and no clicking sounds....the OP should post the make and serial number to get good advice

[RJsfishin]

I'm not a golf car mechanic, but I dare say that cart should still move right on down the road w/ 35 volts.
For testing, pull another 6v out along w/ the bad one, and drop any 12v in its place. I'm betting it'll still be a no go.
When I built my 36v motorbike, I first put it on 12v, and it was slow. Then I put it on 24v, and it was faster. Then I added a 3rd battery (all AGM SLA) and it runs about 20 now. So it ain't like I ain't played w/ 36 volts

[JAXFL]

Just checked after 26 hours of setting...35.8v total... 5 of 6 batteries at 6.25 - 6.37 .... And one at 5.20
I guess I have to buy 1 just to try if that is the problem.

[hershey]

Easy check"
Charge the cart overnight. Remove the charger. Disconnect the positive and negative lead from the battery bank. Wait 12 to 24 hours and check each battery voltage. When the cables are disconnected there is no draw so a bad battery won't bring down the others. The bad battery will be much less than the 6+ volts of the good batteries.

[JAXFL]

"After you moved...then stopped....did you check the batteries for correct voltage/amperage????? When it "tries" to go...are the batteries being drained, or do they hold voltage/amperage???"

Well, not as I was trying to move. But I did check before I plugged the charger back in and I got a reading of 35.**v overall. When I plugged in the charger the needle did go back up to middle range on the gage and it was about an hour before it dropped back down to 0. After letting it set over night unplugged it still "rocks a little" but will not move.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

NOTHING WILL GO CLICK UNTIL THE BATTERIES ARE IN GOOD SHAPE. The trip voltage on a 36 volt high current solenoid is around 30 Volts. No 30 volts no click.

[cbshoestring]

beemerphile1 wrote:

yrusoslo wrote:
ps ALL CARTS HAVE A 48 VOLT SYSTEM SO YOUR 6 BATTERIES AT A FULL CHARGE SHOULD BE CLOSE TO 8 VOLTS APIECE

yrusoslo wrote:
look it up, many golf carts have 8volt batteries in them

Which is it, all or many? Your first statement is wrong.

DOES NOT matter either way. OP has said the cart in question is 36volts, we all know they exist, so why argue with a "mechanic" that does not know. Doesn't help the grandkids learn to drive :?

See that assumption I made???? For all I know, the grandkids are in their 30's-40's. Probably just want to goof off in the thing around town. Hear they are popular on the streets in some states...even have their own roadways.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

yrusoslo wrote:
look it up, many golf carts have 8volt batteries in them

I merely went by the ORIGINAL POST and assumed an "old golf cart". did not mean a 2014 model.

I tend to study what is written in an original post. A flaw that is not easily changed.

[beemerphile1]

yrusoslo wrote:
ps ALL CARTS HAVE A 48 VOLT SYSTEM SO YOUR 6 BATTERIES AT A FULL CHARGE SHOULD BE CLOSE TO 8 VOLTS APIECE

yrusoslo wrote:
look it up, many golf carts have 8volt batteries in them

Which is it, all or many? Your first statement is wrong.

[cbshoestring]

JAXFL wrote:
I do not hear any "clicks"

however, when it did go forward under its own power for 30 feet and the second time for about 75 feet I heard no "clicks" either... just a smooth forward motion. Then when I step on the GO peddle you can "feel" it try to move both forward and backward but it just doesn't seem to have the power and will not turn the wheels (it does rock a little).

After you moved...then stopped....did you check the batteries for correct voltage/amperage????? When it "tries" to go...are the batteries being drained, or do they hold voltage/amperage???

If the batteries are still fully charged, and it just stopped after a short distance, or won't go, I would be checking resitors and other electrical parts. If the batteries are charged, stay charged, etc... chances are there is NOT a battery problem. Something like a resistor may be heating up, shorting out.

Then again, Batteries of an unknown year probably need changed as well...they do not last forever. :B

[DownTheAvenue]

yrusoslo wrote:
ps ALL CARTS HAVE A 48 VOLT SYSTEM SO YOUR 6 BATTERIES AT A FULL CHARGE SHOULD BE CLOSE TO 8 VOLTS APIECE

In a previous post you stated you are a mechanic at a golf course. With all due respect, you are ill informed.

All golf carts are not 48 volts. Not all carts use 8 volt batteries.

It sounds like the original poster has a 36 volt cart with six 6 volt batteries, probably an E-Z Go cart.

[cbshoestring]

yrusoslo wrote:
look it up, many golf carts have 8volt batteries in them

Many NEW carts are 48volts. Thousands upon thousands 36v carts running around CG's and homesteads.

[JAXFL]

I do not hear any "clicks"

however, when it did go forward under its own power for 30 feet and the second time for about 75 feet I heard no "clicks" either... just a smooth forward motion. Then when I step on the GO peddle you can "feel" it try to move both forward and backward but it just doesn't seem to have the power and will not turn the wheels (it does rock a little).