Hello, new to the group and can't get RV to start.

[OregonizedDave]

Hello, my name is Dave and I am new to rving. I love it so far but I have a lot to learn about my motorhome. I have a 1993 Fleetwood Pace Arrow with a Chevy 454.

I am at the end of a week of dry camping and can't get my rv to start, any advice I can get will be greatly appreciated.

I am not connected to power and have not been running the generator. A few days ago the lights starting getting dim so I started the engine and let it run for about 45 minutes and then the lights were fine. This happened several times over the last couple of days and I let the engine run for a while each time.

The last time it started was Friday morning. When I came back friday afternoon everything was dead and it would not start. No interior lights, no dash lights, no cell phone charger, nothing.

I tried to jumpstart it with no luck. I have two six volt batteries and one 12 volt battery that were brand new three weeks ago. I pulled the 12 volt battery and had it charged at a shop. Reinstalled and still nothing.

I checked the fuses under the fridge and in the battery control center under the hood and everything is fine. Maybe I am missing a fuse box somewhere? Seems like an ignition fuse is bad.

Any ideas? I'm humbly hoping I missed something stupid and easy...

Thanks in advance for the help,

Dave

[drsteve]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:


And as a professional observation...

Today's recreational vehicles are a hundred times more likely to suffer a disabling event in a non essential system, than a rig from 30 years ago. Is this stupid, or what? Buy something for relaxation and recreation then suffer a heart attack paying for repairs to non essential systems that make "RVing easier". The non essential labor saving convenience that ruins a vacation. Sigmund Freud would have been in ecstasy analyzing this one...

True that. I was less than ecstatic to read the procedure for manual operation of my brand new power awning. A stepladder is required...

[MrWizard]

SidecarFlip wrote:

midnightsadie wrote:
more than 45min.

Exactly. I run my little inverter 'GENERATOR' 3 hours every evening to keep my batteries charged, every day and I don't use that much power. All my lights are LED and the big power drain is my CPAP and it's not that much.

yep

[time2roll]

200 to 400 watts solar on the roof could really make a difference.

[darsben1]

I sent the original poster a private mail.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

What kind of insanity has incorporated a dash switch to isolate chassis function. For that matter, please attempt to convince me a dash mounted hotel switch has any function other than failing.

And as a professional observation...

Today's recreational vehicles are a hundred times more likely to suffer a disabling event in a non essential system, than a rig from 30 years ago. Is this stupid, or what? Buy something for relaxation and recreation then suffer a heart attack paying for repairs to non essential systems that make "RVing easier". The non essential labor saving convenience that ruins a vacation. Sigmund Freud would have been in ecstasy analyzing this one...

[enblethen]

It may not be the switch as the switch operates a latching relay. It could be corroded connections or loose connection.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Switched 50-times means "REPLACE ME"

Too many Chinese/Ethiopian switch failures for me. This is why the BORG has Mil-Spec cam over center switches. Quicksilver has 100% Cole Hersee dash switches.

Here is a lead on Carling the new owner of Cole Hersee. Folks may want to fondle a switch to get it to work - I simply do not have the patience.

http://www.littelfuse.com/industries/commercial-vehicle/cole-hersee/switches/rocker-switches.aspx

[wa8yxm]

Re: Re-flipping switches and it worked....

Both Switches and Solenoids of modern design, are "Self Cleaning" but sometimes they get gunked up and it takes a couple flips to clear them

On my coach the disconnect switch is a 3-position spring return to "Neutral" one way causes the solenoid to connect the other way to discconnext..

NOTE: This is not important for this post I just want you to know how MY Sisstem works.

Well I pulled in for Propane and gasoline Hit the "STORE" (Disconnect) heard the solenoid CLUNK and now all ignition sources (Water heater, Furnace and Fridge) are Non-Operational (no flames or sparks)

Gassed up, Gasolined up. Hit the USE and... NOTHING, NO clunk.

I bypassed the solenoid till I could work on it

Removed power from the switch (After doing some testing) and cycled it like 50 times.. IT SELF CLEANED (The contacts "Wipe" over each other) and when I restored power CLUNK it worked.

[SidecarFlip]

midnightsadie wrote:
more than 45min.

Exactly. I run my little inverter 3 hours every evening to keep my batteries charged, every day and I don't use that much power. All my lights are LED and the big power drain is my CPAP and it's not that much.

[midnightsadie]

more than 45min.

[OregonizedDave]

Thank you for all the input. I haven't done anything since this post except flip the battery disconnects again and it started right up. I am confused as I have flipped,those switches 50 times in the last couple of days with no luck but I was happy to hear the solenoids click. Maybe it's time to replace those switches..

I will get her home and install a battery disconnect and start using the generator to charge the batteries when away from power.

[enblethen]

OP has the same rig as mine.
There is no bi-directional system installed.
There is a battery control center that has a charge relay operated by a solid state controller. The coach batteries will not be charged if the chassis battery is too low.
After chassis battery reaches a given level (12.6 volts) the charge relay will energize.

[Lwiddis]

Got it started and doesn't need us anymore, KerrlakeRoo. But what did he learn? I'll bet nada.

[wa8yxm]

Ok I am going to assume this is a motor home.. Your mistake is 45 minutes.. More on that later

On a motor home less someone has messed with the wiring (Very common) there are two sets of batteries. Engine and HOUSE.. And a device called an "Isolator" that keeps them apart if the engine or other charging system are not running.. Isolators come on 2,2 types

One is a bi-directional (I have that, Either system (House converter or Engine alternator) Charges ALL batteries

And the second and both points are one way.. Eitehr a set of doides or a solenoid that allow ENGINE to charge house only

Takes SIX hours to fully charge 'em minimum, (The 45 min miostake)

Now. for some reaon.. Some folks bypass the isolator so you have just one bank ENgine and house combined.. I"d fix that as it's meant to prevent just this problem

Also one time M& isolator.. Stuck. (Just once) and did not isolate


How I fixed

I used a small jump start battery (Actually a garden tractor job) to fire up the GENERATOR. and a short time later at 80 amp;s converter output plus the 100 amp; back up charger.. Everythign worked.