HELP! 1991 Ford E350 Jamboree transmission fail

[grodnay]

Hi all

When I pulled into the Las Vegas KOA I noticed that transmission fluid is dripping badly from the front part of the transmission. There was also a squeaking noise that I noticed since about 20 miles before. It was a hot noon.

I understand that the front seal has failed. I made a service call and was offered to replace the transmission for $1000 + cost of the transmission. The guy suggested that there was no point in replacing the seal only. He said that if the seal has came loose, probably the shaft that comes form the transmission is loose, and the new seal will fail soon. Also, he says that as the transmission fluid is burned, so parts of the transmission are varnished and the transmission will fail.

It was shifting normally, and as far as I can say, the fluid does not smell burned. Also, I had it checked a couple of thousand miles ago and the fluid was in good condition.

Should i replace the complete transmission? Someone had any luck with replacing the seal only? Is this a known problem?
Any recommended transmission workshop in vegas?
$1000 fair price?

Your urgent advise is appreciated,
-Guy

[Gale_Hawkins]

Aamco sounds like a good option for you. I went with Jasper 93,000 miles ago for the national coverage but never needed it thankfully.

[grodnay]

Huge thanks to all. It was a real help. I ended up going to Aamco in las Vegas. They have nation wide warranty which is important as I live in LA. They have good references in yelp. We were with friends with another RV, so I continued home to LA with them (tomorrow first school day). I'll come back for the RV when the repair is done. When they'll open it up we'll see exactly what to do.
I really feel I have friends for an advice in rv.net.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

1. Transmission shops are notoriously, uh, infamous for selling transmission jobs.

2. When the front seal goes, the pump MAY be bad. I would not take a chance. But if there is no shiny silver and brass colored debris in the transmission oil pan after it is removed, that would make a strong case for not having a meltdown. SOME debris is normal maybe a quarter teaspoon's worth.

3. Clutch and band material end up as soaked powder lumps colored black sitting on the bottom of the pan. There should be little of this.

4. When the pump is replaced, a new bushing gets fitted. The torque converter shaft that fits into the transmission should NOT have a ring worn into it where it rotated inside the seal that is now leaking. If you can detect the SLIGHTEST of grooves, miniscule, with your fingertips, REPLACE the converter.

Here is a telephone number to use as reference for a GOOD and HONEST transmission shop in RENO NEVADA that has been around for many decades. Ask them for a reference for Las Vegas.

BLUE SEAL TRANSMISSION

(775) 323-5184

[Gale_Hawkins]

For future reference here is how to do the Bucket Fluid. I like this no flush method.

[j-d]

Most automatic transmissions, at least those in cars and light trucks, use a one-piece case. In other words, Transmission and Bellhousing (part that houses the Torque Convertor and attaches to the back of the Engine) are one casting. However, there was at least one Ford automatic that was different. The bellhousing part was separate and had bolts and seals to the front of the actual transmission part. I know because I went to the trouble of installing a used transmission in a TBird only to have it leak all the fluid out. I'd seen that ring of bolts (technically Cap Screws) and didn't choose to check them. Chances are your transmission is not like that, but wouldn't hurt to confirm.

[Golden_HVAC]

People are suggesting that you add transmission fluid. I must comment it is very important to not overfill a Ford transmission. Check it once the engine has been running about 15 minutes, and make sure the level is at least a tiny amount below the hash marks. Once you climb a grade, and the transmission is warmer, your fluid will increase in volume, and if there is excess, it can puke out the fill tube, and drip onto the hot engine exhaust manifolds. This can cause a engine fire.

The transmission fluid is checked while in park, engine on and warmed up. If you start the engine, and there is nothing the dipstick, then you can safely add 1/2 quart at a time until something shows up on the dipstick. It can sit ideling for a while with only a tiny fluid level on the dipstick safely. However if it is puking out oil under the RV, the park owner might not like it so much.

You might have noise from the transmission valve body picking up air because the transmission fluid level being really low. If the noise goes away once the fluid level is corrected, that would indicate air in the system that is now gone.

Puking a pint or more of fluid while the engine idles, might indicate a bad or cracked torque converter. No need to run to the dealership for a new one, even a transmission shop will only get you a used one. One they picked out of another truck - probably at a junkyard for only a few dollars. Normally they will do nothing to the torque converter except clean it in a parts washer and sell it as a used part for $250 - give or take a few bucks.

Fred.

[Golden_HVAC]

grodnay wrote:
BTW the MH has 40000 miles on it...

With that low of mileage, the transmission is not likely to have worn out bands, and bent something or another inside it. However any AMMCO transmission shop will be happy to install a newly rebuilt transmission for a few thousand dollars. They might even claim that they disassembled the transmission, and show you some overheated and bent and worn out parts (likely have been sitting in their shop for several months.) Of course some transmission shops are better than others.

If you knew a honest repair facitily, recomended by a member who lives in the Las Vegas area, they can change out the front seal, and get you on your way. That new seal might last 5 years or so.

With such low mileage on your RV, I would suspect other seals are going to start dripping too. I had my rear axle seal leak at around 25,000 miles, and had it repaired. My extended warranty covered the cost of the leaking seal, however the rip off RV dealership that handles my warranty and sold me the RV wanted over $500 to install replacement brake pads while repairing the seal. I installed new ones for $75 myself, after finding a friend with a 3/4" impact wrench that could take off the way overtightened lug nuts.

So I would not hesitate to replace just the seal. What they will have to do is remove the transmission, take the torque converter off the input shaft, dig out the old seal, and install a new one. Then slide the torque converter back on, re-install the transmission. Something that you can do in your own driveway, but much easier to do on a lift, with a transmission jack to handle the 300# weight of the transmission. Shop time should be in the 4 hour range.

Fred.

[Gale_Hawkins]

That is always best.
Decisions made tired are not so good sometimes.
Best of luck on getting back where you can park the MH.

[grodnay]

Thanks guys. Guess I'll sleep over it and decide what to do tomorrow morning.

[Gale_Hawkins]

If you will not spend your repair money you could stay there a day or two and drive around a few miles and see if the noise stops. If you have metal on metal at the front bearing it might not last long. Typically for a while the sound is much worse than real damage. Once you see the AFT leak rate means you can drive for a while without getting seriously low it would be best not to stop and be shifting gears so the front shaft will tend to stay centered better with everything spinning.

If I was going to make a run for home I would start early one morning to lessen your chance of being stranded at night. Do you have someone at home with a truck heavy enough to tow you back if you broke down going back if you dropped the drive shaft. Tow bills do NOT got towards the repair bill. 😞

[Gale_Hawkins]

I have only used their hydraulic oil booster but I would try this FIX.

I agree the noise notes more than a leaking front seal. As you read in the other post link the seal goes because of other parts failing first.

With that being said the transmission may not be dead just yet and the real fix is to pull out 35 $100 bills.

Since you are only four hours from home I would add the 24 oz bottle of fix and at least one quart of synthetic ford spec'ed transmission fluid then check the level with it running per the manual. With the engine not not running full level will be well above the full mark because of torque converter drain down.

I might go two bottles of Lucas Fix but that might be an over kill but i would leave with it one quart over full mark and keep my speed more like 50 MPH. After about more or less 25 miles you might check it just to make sure it was not low. If it was down to the full mark or much below add a quart of ATF. Do you get the picture?

It is just like a leaking tire over time you can judge when it is going to need air.

The objective is to get home and get service on your turf if possible.

Actually you have to give it some thought before you spend $3500 in your case due to age and other factors not important tonight.

The fact you could see the oil level on the stick is a huge PLUS because you did not run it out of ATF which would kill the transmission. I would not be concerned about the condition of the ATF at this point in time but I would add the highest quality ATF to beef up what is in there and LUCAS will help do that too.

[grodnay]

Smells ok to me.

[wcjeep]

There was an article recently in the Turbo Diesel Registry. It mentioned the automatic transmission has only minutes to live if the fluid reaches 225 degrees. It might have said only seconds when it reaches 250 degrees. Does the fluid smell or look burnt to you?

[adayjk]

Without the noise I'd say, sure it could just be a seal. But bad seals don't make noise on their own. It needs more than a seal.