Mean Well RSP-500-15 Switching Power Supply

[landyacht318]

IT just arrived.

Initial impressions:
Much heavier than the cheapowatt
1/2" wider, 1/2 inch longer and almost 1/2 inch less High than cheapowatt. The casing is about 50 to 75% thicker aluminum than cheapowatt.

The 40MM fan case is actually flush with the casing exterior, top and bottom, so Max height is 40mm and a smidge.

Voltage range 13.34 to 19.27v. Spec'd as 13.5 to 18v I'd rather have a lower bias, but oh well, perhaps a diode to allow me 13.0 or less.

Little 40MM fan is pretty loud. Cycles on and off even making just 6 amps. More off than on at 6 amps. Runs for about 1 minute on then about 4 minutes off so far. Moves a lot of air when on. Not variable speed.

This fan is too loud for my intended usage, louder than the stock restricted cheapowatt fan. Will modify for bigger quieter fan.
Exhausts air rather than pushing it into casing. I either misunderstood diagrams or they installed it backwards, likely the former.

Voltage Trim pot is marked 102, for 1000 OHMs same as cheapowatt, so I should be able to retask my 10 turn pot. Much smoother to turn and easier to dial in a voltage with provided trim pot than cheapowatt.

When first hooked to 120vAC there is a slight delay, then something clicks, then it starts providing DC voltage.

While the Amber terminal cover on the cheapowatt was hinged on the back, the MW has completely removable clear plastic covers which snap into place, and go flying when pried off from the front.

I'll take pics of the internals later on and post back. I got other projects going on which I stopped to test the new toy, also my 200 watts of Solar has not been able to keep up with my overnight usage, So I wanted to supplement it with another charging source.

The Schumacher sc2500a would have to be tricked into contributing to solar current, with a 30 amp load applied for a while, when battery voltages are above 12.8.

[landyacht318]

This Meanwell's operation predates the Assimilation of the Borg.

And the Meanwell came after the Etopxizu 22$ cheapowatts short life:

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27939135/srt/pa/print/true/pging/1/page/1.c...


But both made possible by Mex.

And Now I am addicted to spinning 10 turn bourns potentiometers to control voltage.

I mean, how many vehicles on the planet have a potentiometer on their dashboard to control the alternator's voltage regulator?

Lock me up!

[MrWizard]

Looks like This particular Meanwell, has been infected by the Borg

[landyacht318]

Thanks Mex,

The Rsp-750-15 has all sorts of extra features you might enjoy employing. Such as adjusting voltage and current electronically from 40 to 110% of rating.

Also has (+) and (-) voltage sense capabilities.

http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/2172092.pdf

On another forum, before I was aware of these extra features which seem to complicate its implementation as a charger, I posed the possibility of using it as a 60 amp adjustable voltage charger, but the purchaser was not able to get it working properly and I was no help to him.

He returned it and got a rsp-500-15.

I've been wanting to test the AC input wattage and contribute to BFl13's converter powerfactor thread, but my funds are hurting and my buddy misplaced his KAW.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Good job LandY!
With the Borg finished I am wrapping up two Megawatts. Shottkeys, BPJs and Panasonic caps, and of course 10-turn pots. I have a chance to get a 700-15-RSP but I'm running out of shelf space with 11 power supplies (5 are 36 volt). I have a Cheapo monitoring the Lifeline via a DROK 600 watt booster. Cheapo set at 10.82 volts - boostet set at 13.3 provides a more stable meaning flatter regulation. If the Cheapo goes Hannibal Lectur the DROK will simply go off line. Limits recharging to about 22 amps which is fine.

[landyacht318]

While not designed to be portable, I do remove the MEanwell from my cabinet door( 4 screws), and have 2 sets of some 8awg alligator clamps and 10AWG extension cables with 45 amp Anderson Powerpoles.

I installed an older voltmeter and the Bourns 1K ohm 10 turn potentiometer within a LED dimmer housing on the arm extensions which are strain relief for the wires entering and exiting.

The Pic above shows it top charging my friend's 2 group31 Northstar AGM batteries that just sit unused. The top Wattmeter is hooked directly to output, the bottom wattmeter is just my portable one busted out for the second battery. The NS AGM's seem to lose less than 1% per month in Southern california coastal climate, based on how much AH they accept before amps taper to 0.4a at 14.7v and the time that passed since last top off.

I love this power supply. It gets a lot of use at max output, and just floating my battery at 13.6v while powering all DC loads.

[landyacht318]

When new this battery could accept higher amps than it can now at about 375 deep cycles and a couple hundred more shallower cycles, and a few thousand engine starts.

Northstar specs a 2.6m OHM resistance on this group27.

Lifeline lists their 27T at 3.54m OHM
...............their 31T at 3.62
............... their 31XT at 3.01
.................their 30HT at 2.56 mOHM

Source:
http://lifelineb.wpengine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Internal_Resistance_and_Short_Circut_Curren...


You have a Lifeline 31T right?



Still impressed with its ability to hold voltage during discharge. with 45AH removed from its new rating of 90, it quickly bounces to above 12.2v with most (not all) loads removed.

And Northstar says 12.11v rested is 50%.

I think I'd still choose the Northstar over a Lifeline at this point as I do use it to start my engine and the CCA rating of the Northstar is 200+ higher although I believe the lifeline could easily out cycle it in the long run.

I put the temp sensor on plastic case in the center of center cell, as that is where Rolls Surrette recommended placing it. I fear the sensor on the battery terminal would throw off readings due to possible resistance on the electrical connection. I will at some point be adding a second sensor whose leads can reach my dashboard for display when driving.

Battery now at 91F and accepting 6.8 amps at 14.6v. Lowering voltage now.

A 20 degree rise since applying 40 initial amps. I knew battery temp would rise during hi amp charging, but I did not expect this much. I wonder how much the screwy 31 was heating up in absorption at 14.9 and 15.3 v finish that the hydrometer dictated it needed.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Found a source for "ON" brand Bipolar transistors rated almost 40% higher amperage with gate specs compatible with the OEM transistors. Not cheap. Around $8.00 each.

Your battery shots reflect the higher impedance of other than Lifeline batteries. I can hammer mine with over A HUNDRED AMPS for fifteen minutes and the temp will gain 11-14F over ambient. This is measured at the terminals not through a thick plastic jar wall.

The BORG is getting a 215 CFM 120vac fan. An EBF PABST dual ball bearing brushless. Being a charger, noise does not bother me. The noise could resemble a diving Luftwaffe Stuka, during the blitz and I could care less.

I love your posts Landy! I just purchased a quarter-pound tub of silver heatsink compound that significantly out-performs Arctic Silver.

[landyacht318]

Yes, Thing just pumped 40 amps for 45 minutes, now tapering.

Sensor Got up to 109f, but hit 115f in 10 seconds holding my hand in front of 60MM intake fan and dropped back down to 109f in another 30 seconds with hand removed

Loud meanwell switched Fan came on at 102.4F, turned off at 98.6f and when amps tapered to 31 at 74.3f ambient.

IR gun not precise enough to hit any individual transistor leg, And it is buttoned back up with lid in place so hitting any leg with it is not going to happen.

These temps do not appear excessive. Any more heatsinking and ventilation necessary?.

90AH AGM Battery temperature has risen 14 degrees F in less than an hour at ~32 to 42 amps. varying loads on battery/ PS during charging.

battery Now at 84.9 degrees. Ambient 74.3. Rising quickly during CV amp tapering. Is holding 14.5

Heatsink temp 93.2F at 22.8 amps total output.

In photos above, one can see the longer wider transistor with blue glob on screw thread, and barely see the heatsink I attached to casing on other side. This heatsink gets the hottest according to my IR gun, and also as it rests on my cabinet door, is on bottom making heatsink less effective.

Perhaps I am not done with adding fans. This overkill anal retentive nature of mine can be frustrating.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

IR shoot any of the legs of the bi-polar transistors. This will give you as close an idea as feasible of the temperature of the device P/N junction.

These images are of the interior of the Meanwell RSVP? 🙂

[landyacht318]

Just hooked camera to laptop:





I put the temp sensor on the opposite end of the internal heatsink as meanwell attached their temp sensor.

If I cover the 60 mm fan blowing inward directly over this heatsink, the temperature starts climbing fast.

I've seen 111.5F max so far on it.

[landyacht318]

When I replaced the trim pot with wires to an external pot, I had to remove the circuit board from the casing.

The thermal grease they used appeared to be just white zinc oxide.

I have a large tube of arctic silver and put a good amount on the thermal pads when I put it back together.

I do not think any more ventilation or heatsinking improvements are required. I could choose stronger fans than the Noctua's but I chose them for their quietness and durability. This unit will often float and actually be a power supply all night long in my usage, so quiet fans are a prime consideration.

Heck this time of year I use less electricity and have more solar harvest and have not really been needing any meanwell assistance.

But with this heat, bring on the marine layer, I'll gladly accept 2.3 amps at noon for 25 less degreesF

[pianotuna]

It would be interesting to know what the temperature inside the box with just the 80 mm sucking air would be, with no restriction on the 60 mm opening.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi landyacht,

Fans always work better when they are exhausting rather than blowing in.

landyacht318 wrote:
Both Noctua fans blowing inward is not as effective as the previous setup of one 60mm blowing in and one 80MM sucking out.

YEAH!

Point the fan away from you, get real close to the back side and f-r-e-e-z-e

Just teasing you Don 🙂

The toroid inductors generate most of the heat in these gizmos but the P/N junction within the transistors is very sensitive to overheating. Silver-silver-silver heatsink compound is the way to go, not ceramic or zinc oxide base thermal paste. Slobber the entire back plate of the transistor, then slobber every last exposed part of the aluminum "heatsink" block to the case.

In-out fans are a good way to keep the electrolytic capacitors from getting gray hair too early in life. Their lifespan is heavily influenced by temperature.

If anyone out there doubts any of this, yank the case cover and start shooting various parts with an IR thermometer. The toroid inductors will come as a surprise.

Most early converter failures are "heat induced". Capacitors gone funky because of accumulated toroid and resistor heat. Because they are constructed laminations upon laminations, removing the source of the heat is what does the trick. They have a tough enough life without being broiled.

[landyacht318]

Thanks Westend, I still have a bunch of the heatsinks you already sent, looking for an application.

I'm not sure when I'll open the Meanwell back up again. Only when the dust build up on the fan blades is noticeably excessive.

My IR gun does not seem very precise when looking to pinpoint the hottest spots of things and reflective surfaces like aluminum throw it out of whack. The laser dot is basically useless, and the gun averages the temperatures in a 1/2 inch diameter spot when held directly on the object being measured.