Day 1 of my 460 engine replacement.
This is a 460 Ford project with EEC IV, OBD I, speed density computer.
Tune and drivability will be addressed, if necessary, when the new engine is running.
I have been planning this upgrade for over 2 years.
The ol 460 will turn into a 528. Or for you metric fans 7.5l to 8.6l.
Old bore is 4.360. New bore is 4.420. Old stroke is 3.85. New stroke is 4.30
First the E4OD tranny gets removed and sent to the shop for rebuild and updates.
Didn't get a lot of pieces/parts removed today.
Here is a pic of the removed parts.
IE Drive shaft, ZF emergency brake, "Y" pipe and right header.
Richard
This is a 460 Ford project with EEC IV, OBD I, speed density computer.
Tune and drivability will be addressed, if necessary, when the new engine is running.
I have been planning this upgrade for over 2 years.
The ol 460 will turn into a 528. Or for you metric fans 7.5l to 8.6l.
Old bore is 4.360. New bore is 4.420. Old stroke is 3.85. New stroke is 4.30
First the E4OD tranny gets removed and sent to the shop for rebuild and updates.
Didn't get a lot of pieces/parts removed today.
Here is a pic of the removed parts.
IE Drive shaft, ZF emergency brake, "Y" pipe and right header.
Richard
Day 38.
I suggest in a previous post that I should run out of holes and bolts at the same moment. I failed!
Guess I could blame it on Mikey. He's not here to defend himself. GRIN
In the center of the box are 3 bolts that seem to have no home. DARN!
The 4 bolts on the right are for the OEM lifting eyes, that no longer serve a purpose.
The left over hose clamps have been replaced with spring clamps, like the one in the center of the box.
Many cuss the spring clamps but with the proper tool, they are easy to work with.
No more loose heater hose clamps.
The hood is on and the wide band O2 sensor and meter are installed.
Tomorrow we go for a little drive about.
Let ya know how it turns out.
Ahhhh yes, I still need to get it down off the jack stands.
Richard
I suggest in a previous post that I should run out of holes and bolts at the same moment. I failed!
Guess I could blame it on Mikey. He's not here to defend himself. GRIN
In the center of the box are 3 bolts that seem to have no home. DARN!
The 4 bolts on the right are for the OEM lifting eyes, that no longer serve a purpose.
The left over hose clamps have been replaced with spring clamps, like the one in the center of the box.
Many cuss the spring clamps but with the proper tool, they are easy to work with.
No more loose heater hose clamps.
The hood is on and the wide band O2 sensor and meter are installed.
Tomorrow we go for a little drive about.
Let ya know how it turns out.
Ahhhh yes, I still need to get it down off the jack stands.
Richard
Day 34-35
Got quite a bit accomplished today.
The front end is close to completion. Still have several hoses to hook up, batteries to install and bumper & hood to install.
I think I'm done in the fender wells.
Pretty tough working on the left side, unless you remove the brake booster and master cylinder.
I think the underside is complete.
Not much left in the nut & bolt box. Mostly body bolts & spacers.
Mikey is coming over Wednesday for some extra eyes and ears. Hopefully the old beast will come to life. We shall see.
Richard
Got quite a bit accomplished today.
The front end is close to completion. Still have several hoses to hook up, batteries to install and bumper & hood to install.
I think I'm done in the fender wells.
Pretty tough working on the left side, unless you remove the brake booster and master cylinder.
I think the underside is complete.
Not much left in the nut & bolt box. Mostly body bolts & spacers.
Mikey is coming over Wednesday for some extra eyes and ears. Hopefully the old beast will come to life. We shall see.
Richard
Day 30
After a gentle nudge by Big Katuna, I sit out to correct my less than sanitary battery boxes.
I started with a pneumatic descaler and remover all the loose rust and scale. Then I applied Rust Reformer from Rust-Oleum. After the appropriate amount of time, I followed up with some rattle can black from the same company. The engine battery tray got the same treatment but with cold galvanizing as the top coat.
After the Rust Reformer.
After the black paint and cold galvanizing.
During the whole engine replacement process, I was noticing some cracked plastic vacuum lines that needed replacement.
The lines are color coded and the replacement is black. After a suggestion from a Bounder Buddy (He's a purdy smart feller), I purchased heat shrink tubing in various colors to label the replacement lines. Here is a pic of a red labeled line.
Stay tuned
Richard
After a gentle nudge by Big Katuna, I sit out to correct my less than sanitary battery boxes.
I started with a pneumatic descaler and remover all the loose rust and scale. Then I applied Rust Reformer from Rust-Oleum. After the appropriate amount of time, I followed up with some rattle can black from the same company. The engine battery tray got the same treatment but with cold galvanizing as the top coat.
After the Rust Reformer.
After the black paint and cold galvanizing.
During the whole engine replacement process, I was noticing some cracked plastic vacuum lines that needed replacement.
The lines are color coded and the replacement is black. After a suggestion from a Bounder Buddy (He's a purdy smart feller), I purchased heat shrink tubing in various colors to label the replacement lines. Here is a pic of a red labeled line.
Stay tuned
Richard
