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Need new batteries. Any advice?

Rycher
Explorer
Explorer
New here, howdy ya'll.. got a new to me travel trailer, 26ft, and am need of new batteries. there are 2 in the front, looked to be wired together. It currently has 2 old interstate deep cycle batteries (see below). looks like they have fill caps on top for water. i know some stuff about batteries but only enough to be dangerous. what would i buy that would be equivalent to the existing? are these lead batteries.. are they considered agm? any advice is greatly appreciated.

38 REPLIES 38

Rycher
Explorer
Explorer
Wow i woke up to some great advice.. i really appreciate it guys..
and yes if my trailer is on its side i have bigger issues then batteries. ha
usage is still under scrutiny by the wife. id like to boondock for sure. we are in texas so i'd like to go out to crystal beach, big bend, etc. i didnt realize the existing batteries were 6 volt. glad i asked.. i thought they were 2 12 volt batteries wired together. thats what i meant when i said i know just enough to be dangerous. i will be purchasing a dual fuel generator for boondocking so i wont be on battery power the whole time. its sounding like 2 6 volt golf batteries will be my best bang for the buck. able to draw them down farther.. also would give me the power i need while i navigate the rv world. any specific brand or model you all suggest?

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
theoldwizard1 wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:

Looks like you have a pair of 6v golf cart batteries wired to provide 12v. That's a good option if you will be boondocking and draw them down as they will hold up better but without knowing your use, no idea if that's sufficient or not.

I second this ! A pair of 6V golf cart batteries is usually the most cost effective solution. A pair will run you about $200 at Costco or Sam's Club. If you are serious about boondocking, and plan to add solar, you need to research lithium batteries.


I third this. Why spend money on things you really don't need?

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
With Lithium battery prices today, lack of need to recharge fully on a daily basis, and their long life, the choice is clear.

Catch fire? Similar to the โ€œyouโ€™ll see blown off solar panels all over the roadโ€ opinions of years ago.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Veebyes
Explorer II
Explorer II
You will basically get what you pay for. The trick is determining what you really need. Not much point in buying the pricier higher performing batteries if you are a weekend warrior & always on hookups.

If you are a long period traveller, always open to new experiences & seldom knowing where you are going to be much in advance then spending the money on a better performing battery bank is going to make sense.

If you plan to be some sort of hermit & live off grid most of the time then you really should be looking at going all in with the best battery bank available, solar, large inverter, the works. Not many fit in this group.
Boat: 32' 1996 Albin 32+2, single Cummins 315hp
40+ night per year overnighter

2007 Alpenlite 34RLR
2006 Chevy 3500 LT, CC,LB 6.6L Diesel

Ham Radio: VP9KL, IRLP node 7995

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
Another recommendation for Lifeline AGM batteries. They are well built, should last for 7-10 years and require little or no maintenance. Maybe once a year, I open the battery compartment, look in and decide, yup the batteries are still there. Somewhere around 5-7 years it will be time for a load test. I hook up a couple of old fashioned 100 watt tungsten bulbs and see how long it takes to draw down to 50% of nominal battery capacity. Once the capacity starts to decline it is probably time for a reconditioning cycle. Or just decide you got your money's worth and replace them.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
The battery in the photo is a 6 Volt GC-2 Golf car Battery This is a True DEEP CYCLE battery lead acid, "Flooded wet Cell" you use two of them in series to get what amounts to a single 12 volt (4D) battery (You don't want a 4D as they are HEAVY but splitting it into two GC-2 makes it managable).

Advantages: Lowest cost per unit (amp hour) Long life if properly maintained. Easy to find (Any golf course or battery dealer).
Disadvantage: You need to add DISTILLED water from time to time and most frequent cleaning. This one get one of my top recommendations.

MARINE/deep cycle, maintenance free, these are usually 12 volt batteries..
Sealed Valve Regulated Lead Acid.
Advantages: You do not need to add Distilled water. in fact you can not.
They need less frequent cleaning (still need it however)
Disadvantage. Less usable power (about 25% capacity instead of 50% of DEEP CYCLE) Higher cost

AGM.. Sub set of Maintenance free (SVRLA) These may be obtainable in DEEP CYCLE as well a MARINE/deep cycle.. Higher cost. Though many claim longer life I've not seen it. Can be mounted other than "This side up"

Finally we have "exotic" types like LiFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phospate)

Advantage: Lighter in weight, You can use nearly 100% (over 90) of their capacity..
LIFE: Yet to be determined.... But most of the estimates I've read are in line with the above battery types.

Considerations: They need to be fed a bit differently (Different converter may be needed) they can exhibit "Thermal runaway" (Catch fire) but the better ones are "self monitored" to help prevent that.. And they do not work well in COLD weather. (Do not charge below freezing or some such) Some of the better ones are also monitored in this respect or may even use charger power to pre-heat the battery before charging.

COST: they are still expensive but ....dropping.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
valhalla360 wrote:

Looks like you have a pair of 6v golf cart batteries wired to provide 12v. That's a good option if you will be boondocking and draw them down as they will hold up better but without knowing your use, no idea if that's sufficient or not.

I second this ! A pair of 6V golf cart batteries is usually the most cost effective solution. A pair will run you about $200 at Costco or Sam's Club. If you are serious about boondocking, and plan to add solar, you need to research lithium batteries.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
First question is how do you camp?
- If it's primarily at campgrounds with electric, just get a single 12v battery (nothing special) and call it good. You don't need a ton of power storage. Really just enough to run the jacks and get the slides in and out.
- If you will be boondocking away from power, I would recommend doing an energy audit so you don't find yourself either overspending or winding up without power.

No need to go AGM. If you are worried about it, you can get liquid maintenance free for a lot cheaper but really it's not a big issue. The big advantage of AGM is you can flip them over and the fluid doesn't spill or leak...great if you have a stunt plane or a boat rocking and rolling out in rough conditions. If your RV tips onto it's side, you probably have bigger issues than a leaky battery.

Looks like you have a pair of 6v golf cart batteries wired to provide 12v. That's a good option if you will be boondocking and draw them down as they will hold up better but without knowing your use, no idea if that's sufficient or not. If you are expecting a week boondocking with significant electrical use, it will be woefully inadequate. If you just need an occasional overnight while being careful to limit electric consumption, it may be overkill.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

Seneca_35GS
Explorer
Explorer
I personally prefer the "Lifeline" AGM style of battery. AGM batteries will not out-gas as you have witnessed with your flooded cell Interstate units, thus no terminal corrosion. They are more money but are almost maint free. AGM are not as costly as the latest style Lithium Ion batteries.