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Plumbing Confusion

AdvancedQs
Explorer
Explorer
A few months back my hot water heater bypass valve blew apart. Luckily I was in the RV when it happened so I caught it. Otherwise my entire water tank would have ended up on the floor in the RV. The body of the valve blew apart. This is under normal 12v pump pressure.







So I ordered a replacement Flair-It valve off Amazon. This exact one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002UCAE2U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


It had 2 settings. Flow through or divert. It didnโ€™t let the hot water fill up on the flow through setting and I guess diverted fine.

So then I ordered this one. It has 3 settings. Pass through, divert and combine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRUNEIA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

One setting turns off my hot water entirely. The other 2 settings make it so I can feel some warm water coming through, but as the pressure of the line drops waiting for the pump pressure switch to engage, it goes cold.


Iโ€™m at my wits end here. I canโ€™t see why these simple replacement valves arenโ€™t working.

Any ideas? Iโ€™ve wasted $30 or so on this now. Getting so frustrated that it doesnโ€™t work, but Iโ€™m just thinking of taking out the bypass entirely.
15 REPLIES 15

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
You only need the first valve to set up the winter bypass system. There's a check valve at the hot water outlet that prevents water from back feeding into the heater tank when the bypass is active. I don't know what you were trying to accomplish with the second valve.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate