Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C Problem

[tomdrobin]

After an incident at a campground that fried my TV and microwave six years ago, I decided it was time to get some protection.

I purchased and installed the Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C Electrical Management System. I had no problems with it until this year. I noticed a smell in the TT and a short while later lost power. The readout showed no error codes, and the voltage at the campground pole was ok. Yet, no voltage available in the RV. I accessed the unit, and too my shock the unit top was severely deformed (melted). After removing the cover a visual inspection revealed all the wires to the switching solenoid had melted insulation and discoloration from overheating. Upon removing the unit I also noted the particle board laminate had also melted underneath the unit. I've considerable mechanical and engineering experience, and it appeared to me the solenoid had experienced a failure that caused the overheating.

I called progressive and discussed it with them. They felt the overheating was probably due to a bad connection. And, felt it was because I had solder dressed the ends of the power wires prior to inserting them into the screw clamp. Solder dressing the power wires is a pretty common practice. My TT came that way. I could buy the bad connection theory if it was just one wire. But, it was every wire connected to that solenoid. They declined to warranty the unit for this reason, and I decided to not argue the point any further.

It appears to me the unit does a great job of monitoring incoming power. But, falls short in monitoring problems with the box itself. In my opinion a voltage drop across the main solenoid or excessive heat should trigger a shutdown and a failure code on the display.

All of the arguments for hardwiring a unit in the RV, like out of the elements and less chance of theft, go right out the window when a chance of fire exist however slight. If I were going to install another unit the bare minimum would be some sort of standoff to keep it out of contact with combustible material.

[bob_nestor]

I think I would have offered to send the unit into Progressive so they could perform their own root-cause analysis. It might not change their decision to cover it under warranty, but then again it could once they've seen the damage that you're seeing.

[tomdrobin]

I used unleaded solder. The wire ends to the bus in the main panel of my Jayco were solder dressed right from the factory. It serves to make the strands act as a solid conductor when clamped into the bus, similar to the solid copper in home panel busses.

Regardless I think it is insignificant with regards to this problem. The solenoid shows signs of heat top to bottom. There is even a hole melted in the bottom of the box, and it damaged the laminate it was attached to. Even if by some rare chance all four wires had high resistance in their clamps, the heat damaged would be limited to their attachment area at the top of the solenoid. I think the solenoid contacts developed high resistance over time creating the heat and ultimate failure of the solenoid. A short would have spiked current and tripped a breaker. When I get time I will dissect the solenoid to confirm my hypothesis.

The progressive guy I talked to offered me a chance to discuss it further with his boss who had made the decision. I declined, as I didn't want to argue over the phone. And, even if they did replace the unit, I would have concerns installing it back into the bowels of my RV without some changes addressing this issue.

In my work life I was involved in testing for a major automotive manufacturer. Invariably when you report to an engineer that his baby has a problem the first step is always denial. The installer or the driver are the scapegoats at first, and then reality sets in. Sometimes much too late, as in the GM ignition switch recall.

[Mandalay_Parr]

I wouldn't solder the wires either. Don't get enough wire surface contact in the connector.

[aruba5er]

Did it burn where you connected the cord? If so than it was a loose wire that caused the problem. Tinning( solder) is no longer recommened as the solder itself is not that good a conductor (lead). Plus you can overheat the wire and blue it. best yet is to just put the wire into the hole and tighten it. DO NOT twist the strands, just lay them in. I can't believe they gave you static rather then helping you get the problem solved as many GOOD things have been said about Progressive. I think i'll go out and check to see if mine still is tight. Wires will lossen with age.