Recommendations to replace BlueSky 2000 MPPT

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Getting closer to end my charging problems; (long cable run)

Easiest is to replace the controller

Need one with:

Remote battery voltage sense
Battery temp sense
user defined and easily set charge parameters


Not a lot of room near the batteries for the controller so it needs to be where the BlueSky is now, or if it is too large for that, have a Display/control panel that will fit/cover the hole in the galley wall where the BlueSky is, and I'll put it under a drawer in the galley where the old converter was.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

JiminDenver wrote:
I think you will like the TriStar. It has everything you listed as needs. I'd make sure it has plenty of ventilation because when it gets going for a while, it can put out some heat.

That (heat) is about my only concern. It will be in a busy and small compartment, sharing space with the Xantrex Prosine 2.0 inverter. I'll probably end up leaving the compartment door open when we're parked, and when we're driving it shouldn't be running too much. Also, for now, it won't be getting much over 20 Amps.

Here is where it will be going:

[JiminDenver]

I think you will like the TriStar. It has everything you listed as needs. I'd make sure it has plenty of ventilation because when it gets going for a while, it can put out some heat.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Well, after much thought, considering all the above, today I bit the bullet and spent some $$$. DW doesn't know how much yet. Wait 'till she sees the VISA bill. :E Oh well, we'll be on our way south by then and it will be too late to do much about it :B Except :M Better think about Brownie Point possibilities.

TriStar TS-MPPT-45 and Bogart Engineering Tri-Metric TM-2030 and Shunt.

This will mean moving all but the critical stuff from the electrical compartment. Inverter, Transfer switch, and 50A shore power cable. Everything else to another bin. Which means removing something else. There must be something we can leave behind.

It's booked in to the tech for the 4th of October, ten days before we hope to head south.

I'll update again when it's working.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

NinerBikes wrote:
If you lose .47V with existing wire, bump the voltage up correspondingly at the controller to offset the loss, ie program the controller 0.5V higher for bulk charge, and .4V higher for float voltage. Verify at the battery in float voltage what you are getting at the battery terminals with a Digital multimeter, a good one like a Fluke.

I tried that, and do do that occasionally, but as the battery charges and the current increases the voltage drop in the wire decreases also, to the point that the voltage to the battery can sometimes rise to over 15 Volts. It takes watching, which means that the controller has to be pulled from the wall and left dangling by the wires so that I can get to the voltage set pot on the back! Somehow DW gets annoyed when it gets in the way of cooking dinner:R. And that is not a good thing. :E

[NinerBikes]

If you lose .47V with existing wire, bump the voltage up correspondingly at the controller to offset the loss, ie program the controller 0.5V higher for bulk charge, and .4V higher for float voltage. Verify at the battery in float voltage what you are getting at the battery terminals with a Digital multimeter, a good one like a Fluke.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

smkettner wrote:
While some power is lost in the controller to battery connection, the voltage sense will most certainly improve battery charging.

Although if pulling wire is so difficult how will the voltage sense wire get connected?

It will be much easier to pull a small sensing cable than a #2 or bigger! Plus it can be much longer if needed to find an easier routing.

[time2roll]

While some power is lost in the controller to battery connection, the voltage sense will most certainly improve battery charging.

Although if pulling wire is so difficult how will the voltage sense wire get connected?

[westend]

EsoxLucius wrote:
No voltage sense wire is going to make up for not getting sufficient voltage at rated amperage to the batteries due to inadequate wire between the controller and the batteries.

20 feet of AWG 6 between the controller and the batteries with 400 watts of solar is a failed system, period.

With my calculator, assuming user's voltage and amperage levels, the 20' of 6awg will drop voltage .47 V. I don't know that I would call that "failed", more like "somewhat inefficient".

Bottom line is that the OP has wire he has to live with, presently. It may be that a controller with good set point variability gets him healthy batteries.

[EsoxLucius]

No voltage sense wire is going to make up for not getting sufficient voltage at rated amperage to the batteries due to inadequate wire between the controller and the batteries.

20 feet of AWG 6 between the controller and the batteries with 400 watts of solar is a failed system, period.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Jay;

EsoxLucius wrote:

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
Anything with a remote battery voltage sense would take care of the problem with little if any loss of charging efficiency over one placed next to the batteries.

What makes you think that? How does a remote battery voltage sensor make up for voltage drop due to inadequate wire size on the controller to batteries run?

The Blue Sky SB3024iL with a IPN-ProRemote will allow placing the controller closer to the batteries and have remote control and monitoring.

For a PWM solution perhaps the Bogart SC2030 and TM2030.

It will allow the controller to keep the battery voltage up to to where it should be. For instance, now, if charging at near 20 Amps, the controller will think the batteries have reached 14.8 when they are in fact only at about 13.8. Therefore they never let the batteries get to full charge.

I have described my set up at length in previous posts but in a nutshell here it is again: There is about 6feet of #10 connecting to about 20 feet of #6 between the output of the controller and the batteries. The #6 is the original connection between the batteries and converter which is no longer there. This in on the passenger side of the rig under the stove. The batteries are on the driver side in a compartment under the bedroom slide. The electrical compartment is beside that, also under the slide. Replacing that #6 will be a real chore, and I would have to pay someone to do that. There is very little room in that electrical compartment.

Pics here on our blog.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Many auto charging systems use remote sensing for a good reason. Any electronics should never be mounted in the same compartment as flooded batteries unless the compartment is a bay on a large RV. CR spend winters in Mexico. Warm and humid. Corrosion is more pervasive. I had to mount my controller16' from the batteries. Unless I wanted it to take a bath everytime I drive in the rain. Smear dielectric grease all over the thermistor mounted on the battery. I am going to follow this thread with interest as I too shpuld be seeking a good MPPT controller.

[EsoxLucius]

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
Anything with a remote battery voltage sense would take care of the problem with little if any loss of charging efficiency over one placed next to the batteries.

What makes you think that? How does a remote battery voltage sensor make up for voltage drop due to inadequate wire size on the controller to batteries run?

The Blue Sky SB3024iL with a IPN-ProRemote will allow placing the controller closer to the batteries and have remote control and monitoring.

For a PWM solution perhaps the Bogart SC2030 and TM2030.

[time2roll]

+1 for Morningstar Tristar MPPT. However I think 30 amp is plenty unless you plan to add more panels.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I would consider the Tristar MPPT 60 amp unit.