I've recently discovered a small crack in the front part of the roof of my mobile home (attached photo). Since I'm new to RV maintenance, I need some advice on how to properly fix this crack. What material should I use and what is the best method to repair it? Thanks in advance for your help!
https://postimg.cc/4nSBRj6P
https://postimg.cc/4nSBRj6P
neu wrote:dougrainer wrote:
For a crack like that, I remove the old sealant. I then inject URETHANE windhield gasket sealant in the hole to fill the gap. Then use the Dicor over the top. Doug
https://www.amazon.com/Tubes-Dow-Sealant-Adhesive-Urethane-Primerless/dp/B01DJKME0Q/ref=sr_1_12?hvad...
Thank you, Doug. Am I understanding correctly that I need to remove this sealant (highlighted in green in the picture)? How should I best do it? Just cut it with a knife?
What are the benefits of using automotive glass sealant to fill cracks like the one I have? It sounds like something from a completely different field of application.
Urethane(USE LATEX GLOVES) is extremely adhesive and does not run like Dicor or silicone. The Urethane will easily fill the void under the crack and ooze out. wipe the excess smooth, let dry(4 to 6 hours) then cover the existing edge with Dicor. YES, use a knife or putty knife to remove the existing Black sealant. Make SURE it is clean and no moisture when applying the Dicor. Use masking tape around the outer edges to prevent any possible run off and then having to clean up that run off. Doug (44 years as a RV tech).
Hi neu,
This pic of yours,
I know you are asking how to repair it, but ideally, when a rip in the membrane happens, it raises the question, what caused the membrane to rip?
What year, make, and model is the camper? Did you buy it new, or used?
If you can post more pictures of that entire area ( we need to see a foot or more on the roof, the left wall, and the front wall, that would be helpful. Also, post the other side of the camper so we can see if this manufacturer does the same placement of the corner molding the same on both sides.
The black corner molding in your pic "might" not be in the right place, it "appears" way too high on the roof. The corner molding is supposed to be flatter on top of the roof; the molding side with the screws in it holds it down to the roof. I can also see what might be the top of the gutter rail in your pic, the corner molding is normally closer to the top of the gutter rail, and in this case, it is not. Something may have been assembled wrong or something hit that corner molding and it is lifted up off the roof.
The four corner joints of a camper have a lot of flexing stress going on, and as the camper ages, sealant leaks start in the roof-to-wall four corners due to the flexing. While just caulking may stop a leak now, if something else is going on, Dicor caulk will split faster than normal from the long-term flexing if something tore the membrane.
There is not enough info from your one pic to tell you how to make a repair that will last and not come back, as the cause is not yet understood.
Hope this helps
John
This pic of yours,
I know you are asking how to repair it, but ideally, when a rip in the membrane happens, it raises the question, what caused the membrane to rip?
What year, make, and model is the camper? Did you buy it new, or used?
If you can post more pictures of that entire area ( we need to see a foot or more on the roof, the left wall, and the front wall, that would be helpful. Also, post the other side of the camper so we can see if this manufacturer does the same placement of the corner molding the same on both sides.
The black corner molding in your pic "might" not be in the right place, it "appears" way too high on the roof. The corner molding is supposed to be flatter on top of the roof; the molding side with the screws in it holds it down to the roof. I can also see what might be the top of the gutter rail in your pic, the corner molding is normally closer to the top of the gutter rail, and in this case, it is not. Something may have been assembled wrong or something hit that corner molding and it is lifted up off the roof.
The four corner joints of a camper have a lot of flexing stress going on, and as the camper ages, sealant leaks start in the roof-to-wall four corners due to the flexing. While just caulking may stop a leak now, if something else is going on, Dicor caulk will split faster than normal from the long-term flexing if something tore the membrane.
There is not enough info from your one pic to tell you how to make a repair that will last and not come back, as the cause is not yet understood.
Hope this helps
John
dougrainer wrote:
For a crack like that, I remove the old sealant. I then inject URETHANE windhield gasket sealant in the hole to fill the gap. Then use the Dicor over the top. Doug
https://www.amazon.com/Tubes-Dow-Sealant-Adhesive-Urethane-Primerless/dp/B01DJKME0Q/ref=sr_1_12?hvad...
Thank you, Doug. Am I understanding correctly that I need to remove this sealant (highlighted in green in the picture)? How should I best do it? Just cut it with a knife?
What are the benefits of using automotive glass sealant to fill cracks like the one I have? It sounds like something from a completely different field of application.
