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Replacing the main board assembly in my wfco 8955...

bigcitypopo
Explorer
Explorer
after much thought....

Here is the plan...

moving the battery bank to the bumper of the rig.... I have the welder scheduled after my next trip. Im gonna run my matched 12v batts (4 ) until they die... or until i get a smoking deal on some GC2's.

I ordered a Powermax Boondocker, 75amp replacement assembly. After talking with
bestconverter.com... it'll be good to go. I really liked the PD stuff, but seeing that i'd have to mount the pendant 25' from the converter... i didn't want to run to the bunkhouse every time...

Now... just gotta piece together the solar... panels, controller, wiring....
now i gotta decide if i want a 24v panels or 12... lol
2014 RAM 2500 BigHorn CrewCab 4x2 ShortBox, 6.7L CTD
2014 Keystone Springdale 294bhssrwe - Hensley Arrow!
The best wife, 2 kids and a bunch of fun
5 REPLIES 5

bigcitypopo
Explorer
Explorer
It spiked to 14.7 momentarily. It'll push that to the batts if it needs it I guess.. I'm hoping to catch it in a desulfate cycle
2014 RAM 2500 BigHorn CrewCab 4x2 ShortBox, 6.7L CTD
2014 Keystone Springdale 294bhssrwe - Hensley Arrow!
The best wife, 2 kids and a bunch of fun

09FLSTC
Explorer
Explorer
My voltage was 14.78 at the converter on my Boondocker so 14.5 at 30 feet is about right after the voltage drop. Actually, I would have thought even a little more so this is great. Good job.

bigcitypopo
Explorer
Explorer
Installed my new 75amp converter....

Boost voltage to the batteries, yes!!!! 30 plus feet to the batteries.

2014 RAM 2500 BigHorn CrewCab 4x2 ShortBox, 6.7L CTD
2014 Keystone Springdale 294bhssrwe - Hensley Arrow!
The best wife, 2 kids and a bunch of fun

BrokerDon
Explorer
Explorer
Definitely get 24V or higher panels. 12V panels won't recharge your batteries as fast and don't really cost much less (if any) per watt.

I just installed a solar system on our 2011 Winnebago View 24K using one 250W / 30V / 8.32A / 15% efficient Renogy Solar monocrystalline panel, 40A Renogy MPPT charge controller and MeTer LCD charge controller display a couple of months ago. Best price per watt by far and the largest single panel we could install with our limited roof space. The 250W panel was only $238 vs. my second choice of the significantly higher 20% efficient SunPower E series panels... but they cost $495... If you can find them.

My charge controller Meter showed this panel outputting 34.7V and providing 13.1V / 11.0A on a recent SoCal clear June day from the charge controller to our two Sam's Club Energizer (Johnson Controls "Varta") GC2 Premium 232Ah 6V batteries in series. REALLY pleased with the system, especially since the total cost including all the wires, fuse box, fuses, conduit, connectors, mounts, etc. was under $700.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
The PowerMax 75 amper has power factor correction, so you can run it with the same generator watts as you would need for a 60 amper (more or less--haven't done the exact math on that for this post)

Use the fattest wire you can for the connection to the battery bank even though they will be closer together with the batteries moved to the back.

You can also have an inverter in the mix. You can have the inverter`s fat wires to the battery bank and then run the PowerMax`s wires to the inverter terminals as a sort of buss point, so they share the inverter`s fat wires. Your solar controller to battery wires can also go to the inverter terminals as the same buss points. Fusing the pos side wires is by wire size for each branch on the buss point

If you have a Trimetric shunt in the mix on the neg side then that shunt becomes the buss for the neg side wires from everything.
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