RM2652 on shore power, but LP igniter still snapping

[Kait27]

I have a RM2652 fridge running on AC power, but I can hear the igniter still snapping when outside. How do I remedy this problem?

[dougrainer]

Kait27 wrote:
It’s a 2005 SunLine T-2499

Thanks, just wanted to make sure it was not a 1991 to 1997 model refer. If you start out with the refer OFF and select Auto/120. Does the ignitor start clicking? IF SO, does the gas valve open and the flame lights? IF just clicking, then the rear main control module is suspect. Doug

[Kait27]

It’s a 2005 SunLine T-2499

[dougrainer]

Kait27 wrote:
I ended up unhooking the igniter so that it no longer sparks. Fridge works fine on 120 V. Gas is off at the gas valve for fridge now. However when I did try on LP, ignitior still sparked when LP was on and lit, fridge cools good on LP.

Stove works fine.

No fault noted. Electric element works perfect. Actually too good. My fridge runs at 27deg and freezer at -4deg. Receptacle has 120v

Seems like two problems - Could this be a bad thermistor due to working too good.

My thought is the board may be bad. Because the fridge should prefer 120 when electric is present. Ingitor sparks when LP is lit and when 120v element is cooking too.

Yes, that would point to a bad board. Since the unit runs on 120 that means the Board is SEEING the 120 and should lock out the LP system. PLEASE respond with year model of RV. Doug

[Kait27]

I ended up unhooking the igniter so that it no longer sparks. Fridge works fine on 120 V. Gas is off at the gas valve for fridge now. However when I did try on LP, ignitior still sparked when LP was on and lit, fridge cools good on LP.

Stove works fine.

No fault noted. Electric element works perfect. Actually too good. My fridge runs at 27deg and freezer at -4deg. Receptacle has 120v

Seems like two problems - Could this be a bad thermistor due to working too good.

My thought is the board may be bad. Because the fridge should prefer 120 when electric is present. Ingitor sparks when LP is lit and when 120v element is working too.

[dougrainer]

YEAR of RV please. The Spark should NOT spark more than 30 seconds IF the LP flame is off. IF you are on AUTO and have 120 to the RV AND the refer, and you have a fault in either the fuse for the 120 element or a BAD 120 element, or the 120 receptacle where the 120 refer cord plugs in, the refer will stay on 120 and NO COOLING. On Auto and NO 120 to the refer 120 plug, the refer will fire on LP. BUT have you verified you have LP flame? IF you have flame and it still clicks, you can have a spark electrode not installed over the flame at the correct height. Doug

[JBarca]

Let's start with a few simple questions.

1. Is your LP gas turned off?

2. If your LP gas is on, have you bled the air out of the lines that the stove burners light?

3. When you hear the igniter snapping outside, does the fridge fire off on LP gas?

4. If the fridge does not light on the gas, and the gas is turned off or not bled out, do you get a fault light on the control panel inside at the top of the fridge?

If you are getting the fault light, the fridge is trying to run on gas and is not lighting correctly. You may not even have the gas turned on as you are plugged in, which can explain the gas fault.

If you are plugged into shore power, the fridge is turned on, you are in Auto mode, and you get a gas fault, this can point to the 120 VAC receptacle on the back area of the fridge outside behind the lower vent grill has no power going to it. The refrigerator will automatically switch to LP gas mode if the fridge's 120 VAC power cord does not sense 120 VAC power, even though the camper is plugged into shore power.

Check if the fridge receptacle is getting power. Plug a 120 VAC test light in or use a circuit tester. If there is no power, the fridge may be working correctly trying to light on gas; the issue is that the outside receptacle is dead. If so, back to why it has no power.

If the outside receptacle does have power, then report back, and we can go from there.

Hope this helps

John