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Sewer outlet lock tabs

tomkat4725
Explorer
Explorer
My gray and black tanks come together in a black ABS plastic fitting which has four locking tabs which the cap or drain fitting connect to via a bayonet lock fitting. Typical on most RV's. My problem is that the plastic tabs are breaking/crumbling off. One is gone and one is partial. when I connect my drain hose I have to tie it up with a bunji cord to reduce the leaking. Do not wish to replace the "Y" fitting since this would require replacing the slide valves and elbows also. Does anyone know of a very short adapter fitting with new tabs on it which I could glue to the existing fitting? Or another method to maybe insert new tabs by drilling out the old ones and glue in new tabs? Any advice is appreciated.
13 REPLIES 13

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I think the peg that has "crumbled off "is about 1/4 in dia. I would file the rest off flat and drill the same size hole then bond in a SS bolt that has been cut to length. The bolt would have a smooth shank no threads. You could also use an Al rivet with the right grip length. The metal will not crumble and the combination of the adhesive and bearing surface of the tube would make it a stronger repair that the original plastic casting.

tomkat4725
Explorer
Explorer

First photo I have put on this forum. Hope you can view it. It shows my sewer outlet configuration. The black and gray tank feed together to a vertical discharge point where the tabs are broken. If you can see the photo, the discharge fitting, which is a Valterra fitting, has the sliding shutoff valves incorporated into it. In my case Dusty R's solution would not have been practical. However,
the link Fubeca provided was a simple fix. My order from Etrailer came quickly and all I had to do was to remove the remaining tabs and glue the new adapter on. It fit perfectly and was simple. Job done. Thanks guys.

Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Explorer II
Tom,

Dutch is right that screws can be a temporary fix, but I have seen the threads tear up the hooks of the bayonet that is on the hose.

It is not all that difficult to cut two places one chisel width apart and peel the fitting off the pipe. Cut out a piece and then peel the rest of the fitting off carefully.

Better yet, if you have a friend that is a real plumber, he may have the fancy cutter that can clear the fitting off without destroying the pipe.

Good Luck

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've repaired a few broken off pins for folks over the years by simply screwing short self-drilling/self-tapping screws in to replace them. Just drive them in far enough so the heads don't interfere with twisting the tabs in place. It works great at least as a temporary repair until a more permanent fix is available. I do know some folks have used the fitting that way for a number of years though.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

LScamper
Explorer
Explorer
Did the exact thing that Fubeca said last week. Cut off the remaining tabs and use ABS cement on the Valterra T1029-2. Worked fine.
Lou

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
Find a SHORT extension with the hooks on end and the tabs on the other. Use some PVC cleaner and glue, then insert the new extension letting the hooks on the extension connect to the existing tabs on the pipe. It will take about 15 minutes for the glue to dry! If you use a clear one, you can always see what's coming out. Keep camping!

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
tvman44 wrote:
If that fitting does not work, then dusty r's suggestion will work. Just go slow and take your time.


Thanks for the support.
Last time I posted this, someone posted that it would not work. But like I said I've done it many times. I have had the hub that I was trying to save crack a time or two. Something that I have not tried is to put a stainless hose clamp on the hub while chiseling the out the interior.

Dusty

tvman44
Explorer
Explorer
If that fitting does not work, then dusty r's suggestion will work. Just go slow and take your time.
Papa Bob
1* 2008 Brookside by Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"

tomkat4725
Explorer
Explorer
The link that Fubeca posted has a $3.49 fitting from E-Trailer which I think will work for me. Going to order one. Thanks for your help

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
If you mean that it's the pegs that are breaking off, and the fitting that they are part of is glued to the drain line here is how to remove it at the glue joint.

With a hack saw cut it off at the glue joint.
Then with a hack saw blade cut 2 slots, about 3/4in. apart, in the part you want to remove, down to the fitting you want to keep. I find it's easier if you hold the saw blade with teeth pointing towards you.
Then use a screw driver as a chisel and with a hammer drive the screw driver between the glued parts. They will pop apart.
Now chisel the rest of the glued part.
Actually the parts/fittings are not glued but solvent welled.
This does work, I've done it many times to not only plastic pipe but also PVC electric conduit.


Dusty

Twomed
Explorer
Explorer
Be sure you get fittings with four tabs... huge improvement over the old two tab/ear fittings.
Happy Trails ๐Ÿ™‚
06 Monaco Dynasty
07 Hummer H3
FMCA 279843

sch911
Explorer
Explorer


Camco RV Sewer Hose Twist Connect Kit
OEM Auto Engineer- Embedded Software Team
09 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 41SKQ Cummins ISL
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Toad

Fubeca
Explorer
Explorer
http://www.etrailer.com/RV-Plumbing/Valterra/T1029-2.html

These guys have several options.

If you could post a photo of your setup I'm sure someone on here can help you find what you are looking for.