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Solar Batteries

BradP
Explorer
Explorer
I am considering installing a solar system, but because of the cost I plan on doing it in steps. Plan on installing a good inverter and some solar batteries first.
My question is: Can I charge solar batteries like other deep cycle batteries with a generator or shore power with no adverse affects to the battery?

Thanks for the help
24 REPLIES 24

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
Sorry different meaning weighs more at least for the L16's. The 370Ah version has the same specs as mine but 18 more lbs.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
mena661 wrote:
The t105 RE seems to be the same as the non-RE version but the L16's are different.


Please elaborate. All I remember there were several kinds at different weights?

What I am trying to establish is whether the RE is meant for long low amp draws and not for short high amp draws, based on their specs. (where by omission, a high amp draw rate is not listed and a low rate draw is added)

You do have those UPS batteries that are meant to just sit there. Is an RE like that somehow? That's the impression I got (maybe wrong)

We know that when on solar you do more like 85-97s than 50-90s as when on gen/charger. So above 85% you are at low amps acceptance rate anyway, so I am thinking there is a connection with those low amp ratings for an RE as a "solar battery."
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
The t105 RE seems to be the same as the non-RE version but the L16's are different.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
โ€ขModel: T-105-RE
โ€ขVoltage: 6 V

โ€ขCapacity (Ah)
?C100 (100 Hr rate): 250 Ah (2.5A current draw)
?C20 (20 Hr rate): 225 Ah (11.25A current draw)
?C10 (10 Hr rate): 207 Ah (20.7 A current draw)
?C5 (5 Hr rate): 185 Ah (37 A current draw)
?C1 (1 Hr rate): 146 Ah (146 A current draw)

specs of regular T-105

C20 : 225AH
5hr : 185
25a : 447 min
75a : 115 min

This is what I meant about low amp draw specs vs high amp draw specs.

I have no idea if you do a Peukert on a regular T-105 you would get the same 100hr rate as the RE, or if you did a 75a rate on an RE you would get 115 min. ๐Ÿ™‚
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
Vaguely remember we discussed those REs and they had funny specs to do with where they stood wrt Peukert or something so they had low amp ratings but not high amp ratings? Not so good for deep cycling/high amp inverter draws? Need to revisit all that.
RE batteries would be used for deep cycling and high inverter draws. Off grid homes run from inverter for the most part (I'm sure there are exceptions).

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Common sense divided by salespeak equals mayhem. I have a Bateria Ciclo Profundo sitting right next to me as I write. Can't use it as it stores MEXICAN electricity. Any power that comes out of it has a vowel at the end...

BFL 13, You Are Busted ! ๐Ÿ™‚

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
You are correct. Here are some solar batteries (it says so!)

http://www.wegosolar.com/categories.php?category=Solar-Deep-Cycle-Batteries
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi 2oldman,

6 volt is $379.00
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
smkettner wrote:
http://www.usbattery.com/usb_solar_p1.html
I looked around but never found a price. I would imagine you'd have to be sitting down to read it.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Vaguely remember we discussed those REs and they had funny specs to do with where they stood wrt Peukert or something so they had low amp ratings but not high amp ratings? Not so good for deep cycling/high amp inverter draws? Need to revisit all that.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
What do you mean by "Solar battery"? IS someone advertizing a battery that can only be charged by a solar system? Sounds overpriced.

A solar system will protect the battery from discharge while the RV is in storage, unless you have the ability to plug it in all the time.

I consider my solar system has saved it's cost of about $3,000 twice in the past 20 years. Back in 1994, it was low cost to buy a pair of 45 watt panels, 15 amp controller, wiring, brackets, and instructions for $750. By 1997, $375 would buy a 75 watt panel, and in 1999 I bought a pair of 120 watt panels for $429 on sale. Add a inverter and extra batteries, I have about $3,000 into the system. It still works like day 1, so it is money well spent.

I saved at least $10 a night by dry camping in the best places, like by a lake, or along the river, or in a forest, for about 300 nights between 1994 and 2005. In 2005 I started full timing, saving another $3000 over the next couple of years.

Now you can buy a 100 watt panel for about $125. Add a couple of 10 amp controllers, some wire, and you have a great system for less than what I paid for a pair of 120 watt panels.

I would recommend at least 200 watts. More if you like to watch TV, run a computer all the time, or run a furnace a lot on a cold winter trip.

I also have a Olympic Catalytic heater, to warm the RV when it is cold out, without any electrical power. Quiet too (silent - no fan).

I would start with a $35 500 watt inverter that you can plug into a cigarette lighter receptacle. You can use #10 wire to install a couple more in various locations. Protect it with 20 amp fuse (or 30 but normally 20 amps is good for a 200 watt load). The larger #10 wire will offer a lower voltage drop between battery and inverter. This will run a TV and computer, charge phones, ect. Anything larger like a microwave should be run from the generator. If you do run a large load such as a 1,200 watt toaster, electric coffee maker, or microwave from the battery, it will quickly discharge the battery bank, and you would need the generator running to recharge it anyway. Yes I learned this while using my 1,500 watt inverter. It is not as energy efficient as the 300 watt inverter I use most of the time.

Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a

Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

Kangen.com Alkaline water

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mena661
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:

http://www.trojanbatteryre.com/Products/Products.html?tab=0#TabbedPanels1#top

http://www.usbattery.com/usb_solar_p1.html
This. To the OP, are looking to get these types of batteries? Trojan's RE line (renewable energy) seems to be a little heavier than their equivalent amp hour non-RE batts except for the GC's.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Brad,

How many amp-hours will the battery bank be?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.