solar panel drained my batteries?

[ozzie_thousand_]

I installed my solar kit bought from lance.plugged the panel in on reefer vent and the 2 wires black and rd turn to blue and white which I hooked up as directed thr blue wire is looped and white is the same so lance company said just pick one blue and one white and run it to controller then to my batteries .I took my camper off the truck and 6 days later both batteries are dead! whats up anyone know?

[Sam_Spade]

EsoxLucius wrote:

Almot wrote:

EsoxLucius wrote:
+1 Why is this even being discussed?

Because it is possible to wire controller in such a way that it won't control anything 🙂

Why would someone do that?

Why would someone ask that ??

Mistakes and stupidity abound.

[NinerBikes]

If I had time, I'd run out to T.O. CA with a DMM for a fee. Kind of busy lately though with family matters.

[NinerBikes]

EsoxLucius wrote:

Almot wrote:

EsoxLucius wrote:
+1 Why is this even being discussed?

Because it is possible to wire controller in such a way that it won't control anything 🙂

Why would someone do that?

Perhaps to do an equalization recharge on their batteries.

[EsoxLucius]

Almot wrote:

EsoxLucius wrote:
+1 Why is this even being discussed?

Because it is possible to wire controller in such a way that it won't control anything 🙂

Why would someone do that?

[NinerBikes]

OP is long gone.

[westend]

Almot wrote:
West, those #3 and #4 - I can't imagine any controller being made that poorly. Unless it malfunctions by itself or damaged by the user (and then anything goes, yes).

Yeah, it's definitely one in a million. Diodes usually short open but those are ones that are made not made by Murphy and we know how those products are. My guess is that part of the system is not connected right, resulting in no charging. Also, there is no indication of a battery disconnect switch.

Without a play-by-play of the installation or any pictures, it is all a guess from my keyboard.

[Almot]

West, those #3 and #4 - I can't imagine any controller being made that poorly. Unless it malfunctions by itself or damaged by the user (and then anything goes, yes).

[westend]

ozzie thousand oaks wrote:
I installed my solar kit bought from lance.plugged the panel in on reefer vent and the 2 wires black and rd turn to blue and white which I hooked up as directed thr blue wire is looped and white is the same so lance company said just pick one blue and one white and run it to controller then to my batteries .I took my camper off the truck and 6 days later both batteries are dead! whats up anyone know?

Possible scenarios: solar panel was connected to controller before connections were made from batteries to controller. Result: Fried solar controller with shorted input wiring.

The wrong polarity of wires were connected between panel and solar controller. Result: Shorted input in controller.

The solar panel does not have output diodes and for some reason is able to dissipate current through controller from battery. Result: Batteries are drained.

The solar controller has no diodes in it's construction and is able to pass current from batteries to either ground or the panel. Result: drained battery.

The solar panel was not connected correctly. Result: No power is passed to the controller or batteries.

The controller was not connected properly. Result: No power is passed to the batteries.

There is a fuse or circuit breaker between the controller and batteries that is open. Result: no power is passed to batteries.

What we don't know is the SOC of the batteries, whether there are any parasitic draws in the camper, or if any device is drawing power inside the camper.

The OP needs to give more information than just wire colors and the fact that his batteries are dead. Be specific--Make, model, year built, what you did w/the installation, etc.

[Almot]

EsoxLucius wrote:
+1 Why is this even being discussed?

Because it is possible to wire controller in such a way that it won't control anything 🙂

[EsoxLucius]

Almot wrote:
Controller will block the reverse current in the night if there is no blocking diode in the panel.

+1 Why is this even being discussed?

[Almot]

Controller will block the reverse current in the night if there is no blocking diode in the panel.

[wa8yxm]

Department of "One would think".. (Bud did not).

Solar panels generate electricty when exposed to sunlight. Ok, this we understand. But what happens when the sun goes down? They start draining the batteries instead of charging them.

now. Some companies add one-way valves, caused diodes, that block this draining, but this is at a cost (There is a voltage drop across the diode when charging) Kind of like a Spring-check valve (The water has to overcome the pressure of the spring before it flows).

Not all companies do this.. If you have a solar charge controller IT is supposed to handle that task as well.. but.. Well, I do not build those so I can not guarantee they will.

Finally...... There is no standard color code, Use volt meter to confirm polarity.

[Almot]

Must be small 50 or 100W panel. This is what RV manufacturers normally pre-wire campers offered as "solar-ready". Will take another 15-20 years for them to start offering 200-300W systems (IMO, a minimum size for a very energy-conscious user).

Impossible for batteries in storage to go flat with 50W panel, unless he did something wrong - not connected properly or loads not disconnected for storage.

[red31]

the zero voltage is aborant!

The OP should have his battery disconnect switch OFF in storage so there are NO parasite or other loads and the Lance panel is a trickle charger.

Unconnected, the panel wires should measure 20v, unconnected from the prewired roof connector the pigtail end should measure 20v, unconnected the blue/white at the controller should measure 20v.

The batt wires at the controller should measure batt voltage.