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Solar Panels- Wired in Series vs. Parallel question

teeznu
Explorer
Explorer
So the debate between wiring panels in Series or Parallel. Please tell me the benefits of wiring either way and if there are negatives, please educate me on that as well.
Thanks to those that respond.
47 REPLIES 47

Boon_Docker
Explorer III
Explorer III
Someone needs to go price out some wire. ๐Ÿ˜‰

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Sam if you are doing #4 wire vs #10 wire the price difference is significant. Now jump to 4/0 and the price is definitely not low.

My own system is mppt with a nominal input voltage of 33. That allowed me to use the #10 prewire.

John, since morningstar says for ideal input they don't want more than 15 volts to pwm I would go for the slightly more expensive mppt unit--provided it has a temperature sensor on the battery bank.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
Boon Docker wrote:
Building a high voltage systems in series makes sense if you want to use smaller gauge wire.


Wire is (relatively) inexpensive.
I don't quite understand this obsession with wire size.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

full_mosey
Explorer
Explorer
teeznu wrote:
So the debate between wiring panels in Series or Parallel. Please tell me the benefits of wiring either way and if there are negatives, please educate me on that as well.
Thanks to those that respond.


Read this! PWM v.s. MPPT

I have a 130W panel with 23.5Voc and 7.44A Isc. The wire between the panel and the controller is 25ft of 10Ga round trip.

What will give the best battery charging? Chose between:

SS-10-12V
and
SS-MPPT-15L

HTH;
John

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
mchero, there was a little ";)" icon in my last post on "sticking to the subject". Meaning, - there wasn't really any subject. If you look at the post #1, it was a request for debate, not for information.

Oh yeah, - and for "education". Ok, education: R=U/I. Can you provide any education on how to get from A to B, if you don't know where those A or B are located, how fast they need to get there and for how much? Rhetorical question, a part of the "debate".

mchero
Explorer
Explorer
I'm letting the OP know what i'm running, two paralled strings Almot. Lets let the admins determine who's sticking to the subject.
Thanks.
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
mchero wrote:
4 250 Watt Hight Voltage panels up on the roof. 2 Panels in series then parallel

The man just wanted to know which one is better - series or parallel. Wattage, number of panels or series-parallel variants were not part of the question, so let's stick to the subject ๐Ÿ˜‰

mchero
Explorer
Explorer
I have 4 250 Watt Hight Voltage panels up on the roof. 2 Panels in series then paralled using MC4 branch connectors down to a Midnight Solar Classic 200 Light. Panels FLAT on the roof. Last month in Quartzsite I saw 900+ watts!
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
Question with no details = Going in circles.

Boon_Docker
Explorer III
Explorer III
Building a high voltage systems in series makes sense if you want to use smaller gauge wire. If you had 1000 watts of solar you would need some pretty hefty wire to the controller in parallel.

400 watts and above = series wired with MPPT controller.
400 watts or less = parallel wired with PWM controller if using 12v panels.

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
Yup. The more power the more is in series.


Adding more power sources (panels) adds power regardless of how they are wired. The amount of additional power depends on the capacity of the panels.....NOT on how they are connected.

And back to the original question, for most RV applications there is no good reason to do anything but 12 V; batteries (6 or 12) panels and controllers.

Building a higher voltage system just doesn't make sense....unless your power needs approach a medium size house.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
smkettner wrote:
Home systems are typically 3kW to 20kW and are not really running on 12 volt batteries.

They are not running on 12V batteries - they are running on 6V ๐Ÿ™‚
Sorry couldn't resist. A lot of offgrid bungalows have a bunch of either GC or L16. For a total 48V of course.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
beemerphile1 wrote:
Saw a tv show about solar on houses and other buildings. The statement was made that a system with panels in series could be dragged down by a poorly functioning panel. A system with panels in parallel would not be affected by a poorly functioning panel.

Others may be able to explain the hows and whys of the statement.
In series the bypass diodes would allow current to pass through a defective or heavily shaded panel.

In parallel you still lose the power from the defective or shaded panel.

In some unlikely extreme case the series panel could open the circuit completely for no solar power.

Either way the defective panel gets replaced and it becomes a non-issue.

BTW anyone with a large enough system to power a home will have most panels connected in series to the voltage limit of the inverter or controller. Home systems are typically 3kW to 20kW and are not really running on 12 volt batteries.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Wiring 12V nominal panels in series and using a PWM controller with a 24V battery bank may be more efficient than a parallel wiring scheme.

When wiring in series, shade on one panel will limit the harvest current to the lowest of the multiple panels. When wiring in parallel, shade on one panel will limit the harvest current to the aggregate of the multiple panels.

Controller efficiencies and power handling differ. While one controller may accept and efficiently deliver the most current with higher voltage, another may produce less power with higher voltage, comparatively. In the most general terms, smaller RV sized controllers will gain in heat with higher voltages. Higher heat means lost power and may effect longevity.

For expandability, sizing a controller to handle the higher voltages of the initial system wired in series, may require a controller replacement if controller input voltage is exceeded by the addition of more panels wired in series.

IMO, wire sizing is a non-issue for nearly all RV solar installations. If the difference in size is based on cost, an owner could change to a lesser quality toilet tissue and recover the cost difference between barely adequate wire and larger cable within a month. YTPMMV.

For residential installations where series mounted strings are typical, there is a lot of sense in using micro inverters like the Enphase system.
Since the system will operate without the current drop when a module is lost//shaded/malfunctioning, it makes for good sustainability. I'm reading that the durability of some micro inverters is in question and replacement costs are significant.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton