Starter Solenoid Location

[dclarke618]

I have a 1998 Winnebago Adventurer 30Q. Can anyone tell me where the starter solenoid is located. I am having starter issues and want to try to jump the solenoid to see if that is the issue or if the starter is the problem.

Thanks,
Dave

[j-d]

dclarke618 wrote:
Replaced the starter and everything else worked fine!
Dave

I'll add GOOD ON YOU!
I got pretty good at DELCO starters. Give me a few sick ones and I could build a couple working ones. I remember one where the solenoid wouldn't even click and it turned out the motor brushes were no longer making contact with the armature. Without that, the Solenoid couldn't find the ground it needed to pull in.
Then I got into Ford starters with a 460. Again, I pretty much could do the same thing. I just kept getting parts and building starters. The 460 starter used part of the field winding as solenoid, so no separate solenoid like a DELCO. I finally "built" my last Ford starter, with "BAD" painted on it. Armature had an open segment, Field was burned out, Drive was slipping. Took it to the scrap yard.
Did you put another DELCO style starter on it, or the new style, called

Permanent Magnet, or
High Torque, or
Gear Reduction?

I used to be doubtful about those, till I ran one for 15 years and 1500 hours on our Chevy boat engine. It even got wet twice and all I had to do was clean it up.

[mchero]

Good job Dave!

[dclarke618]

Repair complete! Replaced the starter and everything else worked fine!

Thanks for all of your comments and help.
Dave

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Solenoids with shorted to chassis negatives are rare. Going from 12+ to solenoid S terminal and no noise no spark means the starter motor interior may have a high resistance condition in brushes, armature or field coil. Not powering the magnetics enough to pull the plunger. Regardless it is time to pull the starter for a bench test.

A bad neutral safety switch blocks ignition switch signal to the starter or to an added relay.

An added relay can go bad as well as wire circuits feeding it.

Only organized diagnostics will pinpoint the problem. Jumping the solenoid is perhals test five of eleven.

Good luck 🙂

[dclarke618]

Thanks Westend!
I'll go and take a look. I agree about the good ole days! More variables than I was expecting on this project!

[westend]

dclarke618 wrote:
Westend, where is the fuse/breaker you were talking about?

Look towards the firewall, the box is usually bracketed on a fender or some other metal in the engine compartment. It may have a plastic cover. This is just for some GM vehicles, it may not be yours. An owner's manual should depict any and all fuse and breaker locations.

Another trait of certain GM vehicles is a failure of the theft deterrent module. When key is turned to the "Run" position a small voltage is sent to a Body Control Module. That module, in turn, sends voltage to the ECU and various relays like the starter and fuel pump relay. If the BCM detects a different voltage because the vehicle has been tampered with, the engine won't start or the fuel system will be nonoperational. Oh, for the good old days when a guy could diagnose a starter problem with an old screwdriver.

[dclarke618]

I tested the ignition switch and there is power when I turn the key to the start position. I guess the next step is to replace the solenoid/starter.
Does anyone know if there is a fuse between the starter switch and the solenoid?

Thanks

[dclarke618]

Westend, where is the fuse/breaker you were talking about?

[dclarke618]

I haven't checked on the fuse/breaker yet. I wanted to figure out if the solenoid was fried first

[westend]

Have you verified that there isn't a relay or fuse/circuit breaker between the ignition switch and the starter? In some GM models the starter relay and fuse are in a box near the firewall. That box will also have other relays like the fuel pump relay, window defrosters, etc.

[dclarke618]

I tried to jump the s terminal to the power and got sparks and no starter reaction. Then I tested the s terminal to the power and the tester lit up indicating that the solenoid "s" terminal is grounded. I also get no power when I turn the key to the start position. I'm thinking the solenoid is fried but not what to do about the power from the key to the s terminal.
This is getting interesting!!!

Thanks!

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Did you range the transmission selector lever from Park to Neutral then wiggle it while twisting the key? Before you go to war?


If you have power to the big cable stud, twist the key but get no power to the #8 solenoid S stud, the neutral safety switch, or afternmarket solenoid booster relay or ignition switch is not passing current.

If the big stud and little stud both light up a test probe with the key twisted the starter has to be removed.

Once the starter is out laying on the ground take a sharp object and index-scratch a mark in the motor end cap and starter main body.

Use a 3/8" wrench to remove the bolt and stud. The entire stud may come out including it's nut.

It's time to look inside and check the length of the brushes as they sit plastered against the segmented commutator. There should be a healthy 1/4" or more brush length showing between the brush holder arm and the surface of the commutator. If the brush is long enough, grab a screwdriver.

Insert the screwdriver under the brush swing arm and lift it. When released if the brush arm spring does not smack the brush back against the commutator, gooky carbon residue has gummed up the brush pin and spring. Grab a can of Brake Kleene and spray the brush until the spring can smack the brush against the commutator. Repeat for the other 3 brushes.

Is the bronze sleeve bushing in the end cap dry? Smear a smootch of grease into it.

Replace the end up and align with the mark you made. Those long bolts are easier to align with distant holes if you stand the starter up on it's nose. Let gravity help not hinder.

Test the starter on the ground using jumper cables. If it engages the starter is going to twitch - be ready for it.

Don't try to resurrect the dead. Very short brushes need to be replaced, the commutator passed through a growler, bushings on both ends replaced, the starter drive renewed and a new solenoid fitted. Imagine doing this while freezing rain pounds down. Just a month after you installed that Lifetime Warranty El Scumbag special. They'll give you a replacement, then maybe smile as you receive the 5th, the ninth starter. whatever it takes. Aren't so very glad you saved thirty dollars?

[j-d]

dclarke618 wrote:
It's a GM chassis so I should be able to jump the small wire "S" to the power cable and get some sort of action, either crank or bendix, right?

AFFIRMATIVE! Jump upper battery cable terminal on Solenoid to that inboard "S" terminal right next to it, and the think should react.

Let us know...

[wa8yxm]

On most GM type engines the solenoid is part of the starter assembly
On Fords.. It may be

Also there may be TWO devices (Solonoid and a relay)

To find the solenoid.. if it is not mounted on the starter itself, or part of it, follow the big heavy wire.. it's on the other end.

To find the second pilot relay if it exists...... You will need to use the service manual. i can' not help you. they put 'em in many places.