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TORKLIFT A-7710RS Battery Box Install

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
Looking at adding small Extruded Aluminum Vent strips on each side of the two cable holes shown below to give more ventilation for battery gassing. I will be mounting four each batteries in the box

Torklift Image

I will have to cut small slots in the Battery Box wall in-line with the two round cable holes. I will also be mounting a PVC Electrical Box with three 1/2-inch Cable holes on the back side around the two cable cable holes..

Have looked high and low for these kinds of vents with ATTWOOD Venturi Boat Vents. They are however too long. I need something 2-inch wide and 6-7 Inches long. I have found some stamped out stainless steel covers but would rather have the Extruded Aluminum pieces...


ATTWOOD Image

PERKO has these flat Stamped Stainless steel panels that are about 9-inches wide that should fit.


PERKO Image

Just curious if anyone has something different to use...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS
16 REPLIES 16

popeyemth
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Aluminum sucks for use around batteries. I would go hog-wild with the bed liner spray and glob the whole shooting match. Those rolls of no slid-em drawer liner rubber work great under the battery. Cheap and efficient. Two coats of bed liner, is plenty thick. Crop dust a box of Arm & Hammer over the cured bed-liner, lay down the no-skid matting and you'll have it by the short hairs.

I wouldn't be caught dead on my worst day trying to maintain the shine on one of those extruded metal boxes. Two days at the beach and they get uglier than a mile of mud fence. When a chip happens or whatever, a splotch of bed-liner makes it all good again.


Washed once a year for the last 4 years.
Wish I could take it to the beach ๐Ÿ™‚
"wine is a constant proof that God loves us, and loves to see us happy" ben franklin

popeyemth
Explorer
Explorer
The two part partition looks like an improvement over mine that I find hard to use.
Once adjusted though you have no need to move them.
We seldom lock our box unless we are leaving it alone for a while in a public place.
"wine is a constant proof that God loves us, and loves to see us happy" ben franklin

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I found the photo I was looking for showing the full size PARTITIONs on-line. I originally thought these were a double walled unit. It appears these are two part partition panels after looking at it closer...


google image

I got back in touch with Torklift and asked them to send the two part partitions to me that was missing from my shipment...

This is their drawing of the two part partition...

google image

My shipment did include a LOCK ASSY and I had a good laugh out of that. It used the infamous CH751 KEY. You gotta know every RV THIEF will have one of these keys on hand. Just about every lock I have on my OFF-ROAD POPUP uses the CH751 key haha... I will change out for the round looking key blank...


google image

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Aluminum sucks for use around batteries. I would go hog-wild with the bed liner spray and glob the whole shooting match. Those rolls of no slid-em drawer liner rubber work great under the battery. Cheap and efficient. Two coats of bed liner, is plenty thick. Crop dust a box of Arm & Hammer over the cured bed-liner, lay down the no-skid matting and you'll have it by the short hairs.

I wouldn't be caught dead on my worst day trying to maintain the shine on one of those extruded metal boxes. Two days at the beach and they get uglier than a mile of mud fence. When a chip happens or whatever, a splotch of bed-liner makes it all good again.

popeyemth
Explorer
Explorer
My partitions look like the second photo
Should be easy enough to make with some aluminum sheet from homedepot
"wine is a constant proof that God loves us, and loves to see us happy" ben franklin

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
Does your partitions look like these???

Two part partition

Google Image

or this

Adjustable Partition - The slots on this type is different from my floor slots...

google iamge

All I got was two of these stiffeners

google image

I saw somewhere of a full size wall partition made with two metal sides maybe 1/2-inch wide that was adjustable... Can't find my on-line photo of it yet haha...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

popeyemth
Explorer
Explorer
Roy,my battery box came with two partitions(and locks for the lid).
Yours did not?
Sometime this weekend I'm going to add an inverter inside the box if you wish to wait and see how it goes.
Mine is just a cheap Harbor Freight one .
The extra space in mine is used to store my battery tools like wrenches and pliers and cable ends and post cleaners-plenty room for an inverter.
My disconnect is an Anderson SB connector on the outside of the box.
"wine is a constant proof that God loves us, and loves to see us happy" ben franklin

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
MEX - I am just brain storming here before I start drilling holes haha...

You want me to apply this Bed Liner Spray Paint on the inside of the new Battery Case right? Good idea. The inside is plane ole aluminum smooth finish with Diamond Plate on the outside. Actually I would like the whole thing to be solid black haha... The battery case frame and top slide on piece is already black inside and outside... All of the black painted areas are a wrinkle finish (Not smooth)... Looks like this smaller case from TORKLIFT site. The Diamond Plate panels are riveted to the black frame you see here...


Google Image

Then it would look like this photo... All BLACK...

google image

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Thread hijack sorta

Roy you may want to check out Rust O Leum's black bed liner spray paint sold at WalMart for a good, low price. Before I left to come north, I had painted a solid brass bracket with this stuff and after it dried, immersed it into a jar of used battery acid that checked at around 1.255

It had been in the acid for 2-weeks. The day before I left I extracted the bracket and it was untouched. The coating seemed to laugh off the effects of the acid. This stuff is paintable with no bleeding through. I used it on the BORG. I am buying more once I escape the Leech Healers (today 5:00 PM - gulp)

The bedliner coat is hard as hell and next to impossible to scuff. I like it as you probably noticed ๐Ÿ™‚

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
What is everyone's opinion for adding my small 600WATT PSW POWER Inverter to the inside wall of the 8-inch free space I am going to have.

I think the answer is NO due to the batteries out gassing. This would eliminate some 6=8 feet DC Cable runs where my Power Inverter is currently mounted on the inside trailer Deck Wall.

My planned battery case Partition wall is not going to be a tight seal inside the battery box...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks guys for the comments... I have pretty much put all of that to bed now for adding additional slots required.

I imagine the only other mod I might do is get a couple of partitions in the center of the box to separate my two battery banks. I have seen a couple of them shown in TORKLIFT photos on-line but don't see them listed anywhere with a sale price.

I am going to paint up a couple of fitted pine boards to a wood base on the floor and to the metal stiffener piece provided with the battery case. I will slot the top portion of the wood panel on the edge so I can route DC CABLES into the free area where my 4-position switch will be located. I would really rather have the free area on one end of the battery case but that requires longer lengths of DC Cables. All cables have to be the same length to support the same DC Current being used to both battery groups. If I setup for two groups of 6VDC batteries I will only need one 4-position BLUE SEA sealed switch. If I setup for two groups of 12VDC Batteries I will need a total of three 4-position sealed switches like I am presently using.

I don't think having my Blue Sea switches on the battery case wall facing the trailer will be a problem...

Getting about ready to start drilling some TAP holes through the bottom of the battery case and the trailer frame tops.

Oh since I am going to add partitions I will have to cut the provided Battery Mat to fit the floor space. I am also going to add wood strip 1 x 1 1/2 strips to keep the batteries in their required positions on the floor. These will be separated for the largest battery I might be using (GP27s or GP31s). The GP31s will drastically cut down of my free pace in the center of the battery box..

I'm not all that keen on using the web straps to tie down the batteries. I guess that is going to work OK for me...

You think you are going to have alot of room to work with but when you start adding things up all that room goes away hehe...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Roy, you may not have to go to any heroic measures to vent the battery box. When I built my battery box that's inside my trailer, I did some research on the amount of gassing that's typical for FLA batteries. The amount of hydrogen and other gasses that are vented from the battery are not that great and the gases are a lot lighter than air so they rise and dissipate quickly. You do need some escape hole towards the top but it doesn't have to be large in area.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
popeyemth - Just noticing that... Thanks
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

popeyemth
Explorer
Explorer
Mine does have two cable holes.
Look under the lid ,practically the whole top is vented...
"wine is a constant proof that God loves us, and loves to see us happy" ben franklin