Tri-metric TM 2030

[Slownsy]

I believe my tri-metric solar charger is not charging probably as I don’t hardly ever se anything much going in to batteries I have 4/6V 260A and they are 5 years old, solar is 4/150W Renogi panel’s. The display shows how much A is going in and out but only ———— instead of battery % or full, I have a Inteli Power PD9245 charger for when on grid as well as my Magnum MSH 3012M inverter charger when on generator. We run a Inverter house hold fridge of a Victron inverter and are on the road for the next week so can’t shut everything of to test batteries. But before leaving on this trip they only showed 12.7 V after disconnecting power cord so not great. Checking with hydrometer 2 shows just in green and 2 in white.
I know I probably will have to get new batteries shortly but is this why the trimetric display don’t show % or is this something else. Any thoughts and recommendations .
Frank.

[BFL13]

Also with solar, you have to disable the "automatic reset" of the AH counter, or else it resets every time it gets dark. The manual tells how to do that.

[KD4UPL]

12.7 volts with no charging is a full battery. It can't be any higher than that unless it's just some surface charge that hasn't bled off yet. Your charging seems to be working.
Has the power been disconnected from the Tri-Metric lately? If so, it loses track and needs to figure out where your batteries are again. It can only do this when they reach the fully charged parameters. Make sure your Tri-Metric's setting for fully charged isn't above the programmed voltage of your charging source. If it is, it will never decided that the batteries are full.

[BFL13]

You probably need to reset the AH to zero once the batteries are as full as you can get them and start over with the Trimetric.

The percent full only works when the AH count is right. To get that right, you need to enter a capacity number for the battery bank. That was 520 when they were new (four 260s in series parallel) but is now say 75-80 percent of that when full) They will still show almost proper voltages (12.6 instead of 12.7 say for full. Hydrometer will also be closer to 1.26 for as high as it will go.

All of those inverters etc have to go through the shunt as well as the battery to frame neg wire now goes to the shunt from the frame to get a proper AH count too.