V10 Eng, desperate in need of help

[samsontdog]

I have a 2003 Ford F250 P/Up with 124K miles. In April just before heading back to Sac Ca, I made a u turn and the p/up died. The eng would barely run for a sec or 2 then die and would not restart. Called Good Sam for a tow but in the hour it took them to go 11 miles the eng cooled off and low and behold it started. I thought it was prob the gas filter so I replaced that and drove it nearly 700 miles with no problem. Today I made a run out to the dump and it died again when I made a left turn. After an hour or so it started. I took it over to the Service place that I like to have them check it out. Said the only way they could check it, it would have to be having the same problem. he checked with 3 mec and they said the same thing. They could check everything at $120.00 an hr. I spend nearly $1K having all new everything installed 2 yrs ago. I have a 4,000 mile trip planned this summer and until I find the problem I am dead in the water. Elk Grove Ford just called me telling me they have a new Ford with the 7.3 Eng for $53,000. Any one know or think they know what the problem is with my V10 eng ?

[STBRetired]

Ford has a box that plugs into the OBD port on your vehicle. It sits on the floor and records everything the ECU sees and does. When you have the issue, you push the button on the box and it locks in the previous 10 minutes worth of data. My BIL is a Ford service manager.. That is what they use for intermittent problems.

[BFL13]

Had to get a new starter for the E350. The Bendix (sp?) went out on it they said. Made a noise like that ISTR. It spun like crazy but no cranking.

Had that throttle body clogged up on my 2003 Chev truck. It sort of got worse and worse without me noticing except at high revs pulling the 5er up-hill, it pinged some. Then it died while driving. Ran battery down. Good Sam tow. Got battery recharged, truck fired right up. Later got it in, and they said it was the throttle body which they cleaned. No trouble after that.

[samsontdog]

rexlion wrote:

samsontdog wrote:
Thank you BFL13
I will print this out and take it to the Mechanic

Those steps may clear it up, unfortunately the mechanic will tell you they can't guarantee it, so you still won't have absolute peace of mind.

But you won't be totally out of luck if the truck tends to start after it's sat a while and cooled off. I guess, for the next few weeks try to avoid hard left turns while out in the boondocks.

Neither turns were hard left turns, I had plenty of room to make the turns. Yesterday I was not really making a turn as I just pulling over as the truck was stalling, trying to run

[samsontdog]

BFL13 wrote:
OP didn't say, but could he have run the battery down trying to start, then an hour later, the battery recovered enough to start it?

The battery did not run down. I only tried for a few sec each time and the eng would cough and then go ENGEEEEEEEE, which I know is a funny sound that I had never heard in my 68 yrs of driving

[samsontdog]

JoeH wrote:
What code(s) is the ECU throwing ?

No codes at all

[samsontdog]

Lwiddis wrote:
The postponement of a 4000 mile trip is not a desperate act.

Desperate since I am afraid to drive the p/up anywhere.

Desperate since I may have to buy a new p/up

Desperate at our age this was going to be our last long trip

[BFL13]

OP didn't say, but could he have run the battery down trying to start, then an hour later, the battery recovered enough to start it?

[rexlion]

samsontdog wrote:
Thank you BFL13
I will print this out and take it to the Mechanic

Those steps may clear it up, unfortunately the mechanic will tell you they can't guarantee it, so you still won't have absolute peace of mind.

But you won't be totally out of luck if the truck tends to start after it's sat a while and cooled off. I guess, for the next few weeks try to avoid hard left turns while out in the boondocks.

[bucky]

I would check the fuel lines in the engine compartment to make sure they are properly anchored. I would also check the fuel pressure downstream and upstream of the fuel pressure regulator.
I hate intermittent problems like this. The starting after sitting for a while really throws a wrench into the diag.
If you really want a new truck now may be the time, but the 6.8 Fords have been very reliable over time.

[wa8yxm]

First you need to have a chat with the truck.
Get either a scanner or an OBDII to BT adapter and an app like TORQUE PRO for your phone/tablet.. The adapter/app can be used "Hot" that is while driving.

See what, if any, error codes are being tossed.
Error codes come in three flavors
one... they go away on their own even while driving
two... They go away when you shut down
three.. They stick around so the mechanic can read 'em later

If your get one of the first two the computer (phone/tablet) will log 'em for you.

[Dave_H_M]

Yep, I would also think some type of soft code would be in the computer.

My experience is that the best bet is the Ford Stealer for looking for the codes that places like ORilley's can never pick up.

What a bummer.

[JoeH]

What code(s) is the ECU throwing ?

[gbopp]

samsontdog wrote:
Thank you BFL13
I will print this out and take it to the Mechanic

Let us know when you figure out what caused the problem.

[samsontdog]

Thank you BFL13
I will print this out and take it to the Mechanic

[BFL13]

Googled for that, got lots of hits. Most to do with power steering overloading when wheel hard over. Stole this reply, eg.

"....There is a power steering pressure switch. When the steering is turned, this switch sends a signal to the engine computer. In response, the engine computer commands the fuel injectors (and, maybe the idle air control valve (iacv) to inject a little more fuel (or, a little more air, from the iacv). If something in this circuit isn’t working properly, the engine won’t get that little boost it needs when the extra load on the engine is applied, and the engine will stumble, or stall.
Inspect a couple of spark plugs. If any don’t look real good, replace them.
A dirty intake tract (the big plastic tube and the throttle body) could be restricting air flow into the engine cylinders. The intake tract, iacv, throttle body bore and throttle plate can be cleaned with Throttle Body Cleaner spray. Disconnect the large plastic tube and spray toward the throttle body. Run the engine until it clears. Repeat as necessary."