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Warm ground wire at batteries, no start Gen.

Usmcsousa
Explorer
Explorer
Hi everybody,
yesterday evening I tried starting up my generac 6kw generator and it wouldn't fire up.
my 95gulfstream class a was running and both chassis and house battey switches were on. Each time I attempted to turn the genset on, my headlights and house lights would dim significantly.
I made sure the AC and fridge were off to reduce the load on the genset and checked all breakers and fuses.
I decided to check voltage on my two group 27 house batteries and it read at 12.86 volts. But I noticed the black ground cable connecting the coach to my battery bank was warm/borderline hot. My red cable was cold to touch.
since it was dark and late, I disconnected my battery bank and shut the coach down for the night.
anyone have any ideas or suggestions for me to go from here?
the two issues may not be related but I figured I'd ask folks smarter than me what my next steps should be.
thanks all.
Home is where the Marine Corps sends me.
15 REPLIES 15

Usmcsousa
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everybody for your help, inspected all my electric today, basically every connection, besides where the connectors connect to my battery bank,were corroded or loose and discolored, going to make an inventory list. Take some pictures and redo most of my system.
add one more thing to my "check annually" list .
Home is where the Marine Corps sends me.

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
When my generator wouldn't start it turned out to be a bad ground connection at the chassis frame. I scraped the area around the connection down to bare metal and cleaned up the cable ends.
Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I had this problem with my generator not starting a while back. I cleaned and tighten the connections I could read 12.5 v back to the starter but still no start. I backed my tow car up and jumper ed to the starter. It stared right up. Perplexed, I started to trace the wire from the genset to the battery pulling on the wire as I worked my way to the house batteries what I found was that as I wiggled and pulled on the cable it came out of the terminal. The inside was corroded(green) about 2 inches inside the cable while the terminal that was attached the battery was clean and tight. After stripping the plastic back and re crimping, soldering and applying heat shrink all was well again. I learned that just because you have proper voltage that does not mean that you have enough amps getting through to do the job.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
One of two conditions exists:
Suspect 1: Bad (dirty) connection battery to cable or 1b: cable to chassis, My guess is the battery end as the first one you check, for one thing, easier to get to.

Suspect 2: Bad cable. I have actually seen this (Twice) with my own eyes, on my own rig.. Only it was not the ground.. but that's a long story.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
You said the lites were noticeably diming. This means a noticeable drop in voltage, but maybe not at the battery
Why not check the voltage under starting load, first on the cables, (at genset or battery) then on the battery posts themselves. If there is a difference, you have cable/connection problems.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

sum1
Explorer
Explorer
You say red is cold and ground is hot. If it's hot near the end or ends, loose connection(s). If it's hot in the middle, it's too skinny. Maybe it was replaced with a too-skinny wire.

marcsbigfoot20b
Explorer
Explorer
Carefully feel the starter temp. Maybe the motor is hydro-locked.

Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
Explorer
Yes indeed... normally your generator will take the starter current with no problem, but when you try to start it with a loose connection, the resistance of the loose connection is huge compared to the normal resistance of the motor windings trying to turn.

The battery drives to the maximum to satisfy the resistance and the wires, which normally take what they are designed to do, suddenly have a lot more to overcome. Now, instead of just turning the motor, the circuit pours into the loose connection and heats it up. This instantly drops the voltage way down, and it's not enough to turn the motor anymore.

You already know which one got hot, so replace that one for sure. Once a cable is overheated it looses it's ability to conduct efficiently.

Good luck.
Mike
2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP
2005 16.6 Double Eagle
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK
previously Snowbird Campers,
Triple E Motorhome and Fifth Wheel

Usmcsousa
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the quick replies, I'll inspect my cables at first light in the morning, might as well replace the cables either way, seems cheap enough and it can't hurt any..
do you guys suppose the generator not starting is related to this issue? I've had a few hard starts before but never unable to get her going.
Home is where the Marine Corps sends me.

Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
Explorer
A laser beam temperature sensor will give you the instantaneous heat and will show you the problem area quickly.

The temperature will register hottest where it is loose, and then as the heat dissipates down the wires you will see the lower numbers.

The cable itself may have a weak spot in the conductors and it just might not be the connection point. Unlikely... but you said they were tight.


I got mine for $20 from Costco just before Christmas.
Mike
2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP
2005 16.6 Double Eagle
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK
previously Snowbird Campers,
Triple E Motorhome and Fifth Wheel

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
OnaQuest wrote:
If the battery ground cable was getting warm (hot) you can bet it has a bad connection at that point. Check the cable terminal ends where it enters the insulation. If you see any green oxidation, replace the cable.
X2 I had a bad connection between the cable end and the battery connector into which it was inserted.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

OnaQuest
Explorer
Explorer
If the battery ground cable was getting warm (hot) you can bet it has a bad connection at that point. Check the cable terminal ends where it enters the insulation. If you see any green oxidation, replace the cable.

64thunderbolt
Explorer II
Explorer II
check where the ground connects to the gen & or chassis.
Glen
04 Tail gator XT 34' 5th wheel garage model
200w solar 2 GC2's 800w inv
Truma tankless WH
99 F350 CC DRW 7.3 ais intake, adrenaline hpop, JW valve body,
cooling mist water inj, DP tunes, 4" exh sys
trucool trans cooler added
2011 RZR 900xp

Usmcsousa
Explorer
Explorer
Tom_M wrote:
Sounds like a bad ground connection. Disconnect your cables and clean the connections.

the batteries are both 2months old. And I cleaned the cables before they were installed, no rust/corrosion that I noticed last night on either cables or batteries. And my wing nuts were both tight.
Home is where the Marine Corps sends me.