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Water Damage Repair - Please Help!

arnold97
Explorer
Explorer
I accidentally posted this in the wrong section first. I hope this is the right section now.


I bought a 2006 Antigua from a family member about 3 years back, used it for one camping trip, then had a baby, and life got busy. Today we decided to break out the camper again, but found some water damage.

First spot is in the floor, in front of the refrigerator, against the front bed. The floor is very squishy. I went outside and noticed that the exterior wall, directly behind the fridge, is extremely soft. If you push on the wall from the outside it feels like it moves back and forth at least an inch. I noticed (2) susceptible entrance points for the water; one at the roof vent for the fridge, and also at a bent piece of metal on the front bunk.

Second spot is in the floor of the bathroom. The skylight appears to have dropped down a little...(I'm afraid it is due to such rotten plywood in the ceiling).. But that has caused the bathroom to take on quite a bit of water. The floor definitely needs to be replaced there as well.

I will attach some pictures of our camper that have the wall and floor soft spots labeled.

I am a general contractor, so I have the knowledge when it comes to repairing water damaged wood, laying flooring, etc, so I am comfortable replacing the flooring. BUT, I am lost to many aspects of repairing the wall. I assume there is some form of plywood sheathing behind the aluminum paneled exterior wall. Is it possible for one to repair the damage with only access being from the inside of the camper? I am very hesitant to become invasive with the aluminum panels on the exterior. I would like to leave them on and in-tact if at all possible. Same thing with the roof in the bathroom. Can I repair from the inside? Again, I am confident in my ability to repair hang wallboard, paint, etc, but I have very little ability in body work! :@

With that said, is the camper worth repairing? I would hate to think that I have wasted this camper, because when I bought it, it had only been used a few times since new. But, I do understand that I have neglected it. Badly.

Thanks for any input!!!



6 REPLIES 6

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Please do not double post. Thank you.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

camp-n-family
Explorer
Explorer
arnold97 wrote:
Ok thanks. I would have imagined there would be something like 2x2 framing with some sheathing then the metal. But you’re saying it’s: the metal, then foam, then 1/4 ply, then the framing? Or is there even any actual framing to it?


I can’t remember if the stud framing in that trailer is aluminum tubing or 2x2 lumber. Either way there is rigid foam between the studs which is sandwiched and laminated between the thin outer fibreglass wall and the inner 1/4” ply. The only other metal is the decorative rock guard up front but I’m pretty sure it is just screwed on top of the outer wall material.

Waviness in the wall, inside or out, is a sign of water damage where delamination from the core material has occurred. Only real way to possibly fix it would be to cut the inside ply wall away, remove the core material, then try to laminate new core to outer wall skin and framing and then laminate new ply to inside.
'17 Ram 2500 Crewcab Laramie CTD
'13 Keystone Bullet Premier 310BHPR
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Roger10378
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you are a contractor you are familiar with SIP,s. That is what your walls are. Aluminum outside, foam with some structure in the middle, and then the plywood inside. Good luck on your repairs.
2005 Cardinal 30TS
2007 Chevy 2500HD D/A

arnold97
Explorer
Explorer
Ok thanks. I would have imagined there would be something like 2x2 framing with some sheathing then the metal. But you’re saying it’s: the metal, then foam, then 1/4 ply, then the framing? Or is there even any actual framing to it?

camp-n-family
Explorer
Explorer
We had an Antigua 195ck years ago that was prone to get leaks from the bunk end seals. Dirt and debris would collect in the lower track and block the drainage. Water would pool in the track and leak into the trailer.

The floors are repairable but the walls are tough. It is rigid foam laminated between the outer skin and 1/4” ply inside. You could try to repair from the inside but you need to make sure the leaks are fixed first and check for mould.
'17 Ram 2500 Crewcab Laramie CTD
'13 Keystone Bullet Premier 310BHPR
Hitched by Hensley

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Probably not worth repairing. Sorry
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad