Water heater question

[capacitor]

I have a Suburban sw6d water heater (gas only) which I am having problems with. The burner will light but the igniter keeps clicking for a bit and the the valve shuts off. It will do this three times and then the reset trips. I just replaced the circuit board but the new one does the same thing. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.

[Bill_Satellite]

dougrainer wrote:

cavie wrote:

capacitor wrote:
I spoke too soon. The above solved the igniter issue but the original problem was water dripping from the pressure relief valve. I replaced it and the thermostat also. I put a 130 degree thermostat in and then the igniter issue happened. That is solved but now the relief valve drips and the water temp is 128 but it wont shut down. bad pressure relief valve even tho it is new? Thanks again, i'm stumped.

My old-timer RV tech told me they will do. 2 trailers have done it. only when running.

I am 65. I have been a RV Tech for 41 years. What qualifies as a Old-Timer???? THEY DO NOT DRIP IF THE SYSTEM IS FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY. Doug

^^^^^^^^^^^^What he said!^^^^^^^^^^^^

[dougrainer]

cavie wrote:

capacitor wrote:
I spoke too soon. The above solved the igniter issue but the original problem was water dripping from the pressure relief valve. I replaced it and the thermostat also. I put a 130 degree thermostat in and then the igniter issue happened. That is solved but now the relief valve drips and the water temp is 128 but it wont shut down. bad pressure relief valve even tho it is new? Thanks again, i'm stumped.

My old-timer RV tech told me they will do. 2 trailers have done it. only when running.

I am 65. I have been a RV Tech for 41 years. What qualifies as a Old-Timer???? THEY DO NOT DRIP IF THE SYSTEM IS FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY. Doug

[RJsfishin]

I have never known a drippy PRV to cause any problem

[Dusty_R]

I like to put a small, 1 or 2 gallon pressure tank with a bladder, in the pipping system. Then I don't need to worry about loosing the air in the water heater, and when using water from our fresh water tank, the pump does not start and stop as often, just runs longer with each start.

Dusty

[capacitor]

old biscuit, you were spot on. I followed the instructions and it worked. Never had that happen before. Thank you again for your help. Brian

[cavie]

capacitor wrote:
I spoke too soon. The above solved the igniter issue but the original problem was water dripping from the pressure relief valve. I replaced it and the thermostat also. I put a 130 degree thermostat in and then the igniter issue happened. That is solved but now the relief valve drips and the water temp is 128 but it wont shut down. bad pressure relief valve even tho it is new? Thanks again, i'm stumped.

My old-timer RV tech told me they will do. 2 trailers have done it. only when running.

[capacitor]

Okay, got it. I’ll give this a try in the morning. Basically drain the tank to t and p level to form the air pocket. Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

Loss of air pocket

Top of tank above the hot out dip tube should be an air pocket
Water swells when heated
Air pocket helps control increase in pressure
Water can not be compressed so pressure increases causing T&P to weep

[capacitor]

I spoke too soon. The above solved the igniter issue but the original problem was water dripping from the pressure relief valve. I replaced it and the thermostat also. I put a 130 degree thermostat in and then the igniter issue happened. That is solved but now the relief valve drips and the water temp is 128 but it wont shut down. bad pressure relief valve even tho it is new? Thanks again, i'm stumped.

[capacitor]

Bingo. I did like old biscuit said and cleaned the igniter electrodes and it worked! While I was there, I swept out the flue also. Thanks for your quick replies. Problem solved and I never would have guessed it. Thanks again.

[obgraham]

Check the flue for flakes of junk blocking it.

[Old-Biscuit]

Clean the spark electrode with some emery cloth, clean/tighten wire connector at terminal on transformer, check/adjust spark gap 1/8" - 3/16"

It provides return path for flame proving signal (milliamp signal circuit board senses to keep gas valve open)