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what if?

tlaffourtit
Nomad
Nomad
if the shore power is plugged in and the inverter is turned on then I should be charging the batteries. but the solar is also on. so what happens if the inverter and the solar are charging the batteries at the same time?
Sue and Tim
12 REPLIES 12

tlaffourtit
Nomad
Nomad
three or more strings. looks like I need to change it.
Sue and Tim

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
tlaffourtit wrote:
I didn't know each panel had to have it's own breaker or fuse. good to know. its a breaker between the combiner and controller so it's a switch as well. the rv is a 30 amp. I believe the inverter is rated at 40 amps. I could be wrong.as far as the 500 amp fuse with the 4/0; I just imitated what we use at work. was just a guess on my part.


Scroll down to how and when to fuse your solar panels

http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/9df1f7ec-8c62-4210-8cf8-9504927394f0.pdf
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

tlaffourtit
Nomad
Nomad
I didn't know each panel had to have it's own breaker or fuse. good to know. its a breaker between the combiner and controller so it's a switch as well. the rv is a 30 amp. I believe the inverter is rated at 40 amps. I could be wrong.as far as the 500 amp fuse with the 4/0; I just imitated what we use at work. was just a guess on my part.
Sue and Tim

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
What happens with two charging sources? The batteries get charged as normal same as any other day. With 1160 Ah the batteries will be fine.

Since you posted the diagram...
Technically each panel should have branch fuse... probably 10 or 15 amp.
70 amp fuse between combiner and controller is not really needed but a DC switch might be convenient for service.
You don't state if RV is 50a or 30a but make sure the inverter transfer switch is properly rated.
500a inverter fuse might be a little large for 4/0 wire.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
tlaffourtit wrote:
volt/ohm and a hand held amp meter
If your amp meter will take the amperage of the solar controller, the inverter/charger, and the combination of both, measure as mentioned above.

FWIW, I have a Fluke 600 vac clamp meter that will take the amps. I also have a Fluke handheld that only measures 10 amps. I recently replaced the fuses in the 10 amp model and they weren't cheap.

BTW, BFL is the Guru of multiple charger setups. Approach his mountain top lair cautiously. Otherwise, you will be smitten with multiple chargers and a tangle of battery cables. :B
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
tlaffourtit wrote:
I see your point to keep the inv off while plugged into shore outlet. converter was removed, rather left dormant just incase inverter ever broke. I am not sure but I don't think my inv/charger has a converter. side note:I did notice I left out the 60 amp breaker between the ts and inv.


Your inverter/charger and shore power should be separated by the inverter portion's internal transfer switch that will just pass through shore power if on.

The charger portion acts like a converter when on shore power and the charger portion of the inverter/charger is "enabled" (turned on)

You could arrange to have the old converter, the inverter/charger, and the solar all adding their charging amps together if you wanted .
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

tlaffourtit
Nomad
Nomad
I see your point to keep the inv off while plugged into shore outlet. converter was removed, rather left dormant just incase inverter ever broke. I am not sure but I don't think my inv/charger has a converter. side note:I did notice I left out the 60 amp breaker between the ts and inv.
Sue and Tim

chevyman2
Explorer
Explorer
the "inverter" should not be turned on when plugged in to a power source. The "inverter" actually -inverts-12v (from battery) to 110v and that will burn the converter/inverter/charger box. The inverter should only be used when not using any power source, and engine is running. (There should be a switch/button somewhere in the unit to turn on/off the actual inverter function). The converter/charger portion operates every time you are using a power source. (shore power or generator)

I assume you was just talking about having the unit plugged in and solar charging turned on. No harm done. The solar just charges the chassis battery anyway. The converter/inverter/charger box will charge chassis and coach batteries.
Tim-DW(Kathy)
12 Chevy Sonic DD, 03 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE, 2001 Jayco KIWI
If a "nightmare" is considered a dream-then I am living the dream

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

tlaffourtit
Nomad
Nomad
volt/ohm and a hand held amp meter
Sue and Tim

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Itr mostly will happen that two chargers are somewhat additive. Depending on how the feedback circuit is in each of the chargers, one may take a back seat and not put out full charge current while the other is charging.

The best way to see what the results are with your dual charging system is to measure current being distributed to the batteries with only one or the other and also with both charging. This is done with a meter and a DC clamp meter is the best since most handheld meters do not measure above 10 amps. You could also measure voltage at the batteries using the above measuring procedure and get a ballpark estimate. What kind of meter do you have?
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Roadpilot
Explorer
Explorer
The batteries will charge faster until they are chargered then both should back off. No harm.
Tiffin Wayfarer 25TW
15 Mini Cooper S