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What is that stupid RV fastener used everywhere?

mlwinnig
Explorer
Explorer
Used in 2000 Dutchmen TT and 1995 Newmar Class A and, I think, 1976 Shasta TT.

It looks a little like a Phillips with a square drive center but it's not! (I have used screws which could be driven with either and it's not the same). The "wings" are somewhat curved.

I have had to buy complete security bit sets to get the single bit (Menards and Harbor Freight). HF set does not identify it though sizes appear to be 8 and 10. I think this one is the 10.

I want to buy a bunch of longer impact-rated bits for an impact driver.

Help please!

Thanks!
34 REPLIES 34

T18skyguy
Explorer
Explorer
The square head is much better than a phillips, but the Torx is better than a square head. One problem with the square heads, is that if you get them in galvanized, the bit will frequently not fit. No such problem with Torx. Try a box of Power Pro Brand exterior screws with T 25 Torx head. More money but you'll love em. They don't strip.
Retired Anesthetist. LTP. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. Between rigs right now.. Wife and daughter. Four cats which we must obey.

ktmrfs
Explorer II
Explorer II
pnichols wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
With a new hole in wood I use silicone grease on the fastener threads.


There's something better than messing with silicone to make screws drive into wood easy: Just use a bar of soap that you have wetted with water. Rub the screw back a forth against the slippery soap bar surface to pack some of the wet, soft soap into the screw's threads. Wa La - the screw goes right in using even a hand screwdriver, and .... it doesn't make much difference what kind of head the screw has.

By the way, the best way to remove old screws that are really stuck in regardless of what kind of dumb, easily stripped, head type they may have is to use ... a reversible "impact" electric drill (NOT a "hammer" electric drill). I've removed an uncountable number of 3 to 4 inch deck screws in old wood using one of greatest inventions of all time -> an electric impact drill in reverse mode ... it's magic.


rather than soap I use a bit of beeswax from a bar I carry in my toolboxes.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bill.Satellite wrote:
I have heard of Torx head but what is Torex?


Loose screw in speller?

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have heard of Torx head but what is Torex?
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
A case of Phillips, stripping Podi-Drive screwby-dooze?

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Must be a case of few loose screws?

Ozlander
Explorer
Explorer
wa8yxm wrote:
Some of them.. Well there is a story as to why I had to replace an engine (It was a case of MURDER, not a natural death).. Well there are now two blocks of wood, held in place with Stainless Torex, that should the thing that currently just sit there. Doing nothing but get inspected from time to time.

But should the incident that Killed engine #1 ever happen againk those blocks of wood will spring into action and prevent a disaster.


I doubt if anybody here has any idea what you are talking about.
Ozlander

06 Yukon XL
2001 Trail-Lite 7253

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Living in salt air, I use stainless fasteners for electrical and wood. The definition of misery is to use a phillips type stainless steel fastener. Even extremely expensive 316 grade is no match for a hardware store grade 2 screw when it comes to strength and ability to defend against damaging the cross. But Robertson screws can tolerate tightness all the way up to snapping off the threads (Canadian word coming) whilst surviving high driving forces in the head.


I have a few headless Stainless in my RV. they were TOREX however

Some of them.. Well there is a story as to why I had to replace an engine (It was a case of MURDER, not a natural death).. Well there are now two blocks of wood, held in place with Stainless Torex, that should the thing that currently just sit there. Doing nothing but get inspected from time to time.

But should the incident that Killed engine #1 ever happen againk those blocks of wood will spring into action and prevent a disaster.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
I was in the tool aisle of a hardware store one time when another customer asked the clerk the difference between a hammer drill and an impact drill. The clerk didn't have a clue. I explained the differences and how each was used. The other customer asked if I worked there, and I said no. He said "you should."
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks. Bet it takes more than a entry-level cordless impact drill to work "way over yonder".

I prefer not to use any form of moisture when penetrating wood. But then my thoughts may not prove to be valid outside of a tropical salt-steam-bath environment.

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
With a new hole in wood I use silicone grease on the fastener threads.


There's something better than messing with silicone to make screws drive into wood easy: Just use a bar of soap that you have wetted with water. Rub the screw back a forth against the slippery soap bar surface to pack some of the wet, soft soap into the screw's threads. Wa La - the screw goes right in using even a hand screwdriver, and .... it doesn't make much difference what kind of head the screw has.

By the way, the best way to remove old screws that are really stuck in regardless of what kind of dumb, easily stripped, head type they may have is to use ... a reversible "impact" electric drill (NOT a "hammer" electric drill). I've removed an uncountable number of 3 to 4 inch deck screws in old wood using one of greatest inventions of all time -> an electric impact drill in reverse mode ... it's magic.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Living in salt air, I use stainless fasteners for electrical and wood. The definition of misery is to use a phillips type stainless steel fastener. Even extremely expensive 316 grade is no match for a hardware store grade 2 screw when it comes to strength and ability to defend against damaging the cross. But Robertson screws can tolerate tightness all the way up to snapping off the threads (Canadian word coming) whilst surviving high driving forces in the head.

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Not stupid. Far better than phillips.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
Robertson forever. Philips never. Eh?