Battery box/upgrade questions.

[02CumminsGuy]

Hey guys,

Just bought our first tt and already looking at upgrades. It's a 2004 okanagann eclipse ecl-21.

Right now it has one 12 volt battery under the dinette (front of trailer) in a sealed/vented box. I'm looking to upgrade as we'll do a fair amount of boondocking. I'm really interested in going to a dual 6v golf cart setup but the space under the dinette is limited to 14". There is a box that I can buy that will fit 2 6v batteries and is only 13 1/8" tall, but I'd have to put the vent on top of that so it would probably be too tall.

I'm wondering if I could place the vent on the side of the box at the top? I know it has to be vented out the top for hydrogen removal, I'm just wondering if that might work?

Also, if there are any other ideas it would be very much appreciated.

Thanks

[02CumminsGuy]

westend wrote:

Huntindog wrote:
I don't usually recommend AGM batteries. Yes they have some advantages but I just don't think it justifies the higher price. But this situation cries out for AGMs. No box needed, no corrosion and no work/expense making a custom box. That is what I would do.

This is good advice.
Except for an old, cheap Swede like me. :B Actually, I also had some cosmetic reasons for tackling the job (battery box is not hidden).

Since I don't own a rotational molding plant, I had to use materials other than plastic (the best material). I made the box with wood and then lined it with FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic). I made the top, a removable piece, the same way and gasketed it to seal any gases inside. Plastic tubing was used for a vent. A nice chrome vent fitting was installed on the exterior.

All of this is not trivial and here is where Hunting Dog's advice becomes reinforced--AGM's don't require a box. You can buy a double battery polyethylene box, hardware, vent tubing, and a vent fitting for a bit less than $100. Or, you can buy AGM's hook them up, tie them down, and be done.

AGM's are factoring in to my plans too, although they are VERY expensive. I'm also debatin the option of junking the battery/solar upgrade plans and just buying a generator and charging the single 12 volt more often. A generator is going to work our to less than the battery upgrade and solar panels will cost. Decisions decisions ...

[westend]

Huntindog wrote:
I don't usually recommend AGM batteries. Yes they have some advantages but I just don't think it justifies the higher price. But this situation cries out for AGMs. No box needed, no corrosion and no work/expense making a custom box. That is what I would do.

This is good advice.
Except for an old, cheap Swede like me. :B Actually, I also had some cosmetic reasons for tackling the job (battery box is not hidden).

Since I don't own a rotational molding plant, I had to use materials other than plastic (the best material). I made the box with wood and then lined it with FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic). I made the top, a removable piece, the same way and gasketed it to seal any gases inside. Plastic tubing was used for a vent. A nice chrome vent fitting was installed on the exterior.

All of this is not trivial and here is where Hunting Dog's advice becomes reinforced--AGM's don't require a box. You can buy a double battery polyethylene box, hardware, vent tubing, and a vent fitting for a bit less than $100. Or, you can buy AGM's hook them up, tie them down, and be done.

[Huntindog]

I don't usually recommend AGM batteries. Yes they have some advantages but I just don't think it justifies the higher price. But this situation cries out for AGMs. No box needed, no corrosion and no work/expense making a custom box. That is what I would do.

[bobndot]

I boondock most all the time. AGM's do not need any venting, they seem to charge faster and not deplete nearly as fast while sitting idle for long periods of time. I find them to work a little better in colder temps and work very well with solar systems.

Most modern day converters will be able to be used , when you use a portable genny. To be sure, take the make and model of your converter and call the mfg to ask.

Most deep cycle batteries like mine (DEKA Intimidators grp 31's) are really hybrid 'starting/deep cycle' batteries which work fine but they are not TRUE DEEP CYCLE batteries like LIFELINE batteries.
Using two 6v's will work , make sure you buy good ones.
IT's rare but IF...you should have an issue with one of the 6 volters, then you will only have one 6v battery to do a 12 volt job . Just be aware of that if you really camp in the middle of nowhere.

One side note : its a good idea to know where your trailer main wire off the battery ground is located. Mine was grounded under the kitchen sink to the frame via one bolt. Over time, it rusted and killed all my power and I was not able to get at it w/o removing the water heater. It was easier to just run a new ground wire. YES, it happened while boondocking when it was cold, very far from any kind of RV help.

Bob

[westend]

Sure, a vent out the side, at the top, will be fine. I built a vented box inside my trailer that holds two GC2 6V batteries. The vent is on the side of the box. The exterior vent outlet has a flapper so gas can only exit.

FWIW, I did some research on the amount of gas produced by charging a battery before I started my battery box. The amount of hydrogen and other gases produced is really not that great. Yes, you want to vent to insure there isn't a hydrogen build up but the amount is not huge. I can't offhand, remember the exact cu. ltrs. produced but that information is out there, should you wish to get technical with vent sizes and such.

[eipo]

I don't believe the vent HAS to exit vertically. But here is what I would do...

Place a vent on one side to pull air in and at the bottom of the box. Place another vent on the opposite side and at the top. You will create a natural draft inside the box.

You can also look at AGM style batteries that don't need venting. A little more money and probably a different charger.

This is what I am working on...