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Romex and Outlets

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
Microwave has been removed and the area will now be used for storage with a cabinet door to look factory.

My question is are the two factory outlets on each side safe as they are and can I just move the microwave outlet (which is connected to the yellow romex) to the back and just put a couple of child safe inserts into it and be good to go for a storage space? I will of course reposition all of the wiring to the back.
38 REPLIES 38

SparkDr
Explorer
Explorer
"Theories validated..."

"Yes they are."

Irony also noted. Let 'er burn.

On to other topics I go!
May the Mods grant me the serenity to accept the opinions of those I cannot change,
the courage to offer input to those who are open to another way of thinking,
and the wisdom to shut up whenever I get too caught up in my own misconceived brilliance.

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
dmullen wrote:
SparkDr wrote:
westend wrote:
SparkDr wrote:
dmullen wrote:
The outlet on the left side is labeled with a sticker as a GFCI outlet but has no test or reset button and looks exactly like the outlet on the other side. :?


It's probably GFI protected upstream in the circuit (likely the bathroom). FWIW, somebody should have at least suggested to the OP that a call to an electrician may be warranted. I'm all for DIY when it makes sense, but I get the feel from what I'm reading here that the OP should stay hands-off on this one. As a past Sparky in a previous lifetime, I can say with all honesty that I have not seen a recommendation to do what I would have done in this instance. Nor would I feel comfortable trying to explain it step by step in a forum. Be certain of what you are doing and do it safely when it comes to electricity. These things already go up like a matchstick without our help.
I tried to hint at that in a previous post. The OP had another thread about vacating a 12V device and decided, without checking phase, to connect similar colored wires together. That's what you see in the pictures in this thread with the wire nuts.

I'd suggest that the OP at least enlist a friend or neighbor that is conversant with 120V wiring, if not hiring an electrician.

BTW, try to buy those single gang boxes in the "shallow" variety. You will have a lot less box in your way.


I probably should have tried the hint method first myself. Everybody gets offended so easily nowadays. I stand by my opinion. OP doesn't know his backside from second base when it comes to proper line voltage electrical circuitry and practices. While we all want to be helpful, a platform such as a forum oftentimes offers such a mish-mash of suggestions that the end result becomes misinformation as interpreted by an OP. Enlisting a friend or neighbor "in the know" is a great idea. In some cases, so is hiring an electrician. It's a small project that wouldn't cost very much at all and most pros that I know would be flattered to have someone ask them to offer a little instruction for next time while doing the work.


It's funny that you would assume I haven't asked someone in person these same questions. Maybe I want to compare the answers I get here to what he tells me. There is no problem here and believe me I'm not the least bit offended. I'm more than used to it by now on this board. There is always someone like you in every thread on this forum who shows his rear end and like many others I just choose to ignore you.
Theories validated...


Yes they are.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
dmullen wrote:
SparkDr wrote:
westend wrote:
SparkDr wrote:
dmullen wrote:
The outlet on the left side is labeled with a sticker as a GFCI outlet but has no test or reset button and looks exactly like the outlet on the other side. :?


It's probably GFI protected upstream in the circuit (likely the bathroom). FWIW, somebody should have at least suggested to the OP that a call to an electrician may be warranted. I'm all for DIY when it makes sense, but I get the feel from what I'm reading here that the OP should stay hands-off on this one. As a past Sparky in a previous lifetime, I can say with all honesty that I have not seen a recommendation to do what I would have done in this instance. Nor would I feel comfortable trying to explain it step by step in a forum. Be certain of what you are doing and do it safely when it comes to electricity. These things already go up like a matchstick without our help.
I tried to hint at that in a previous post. The OP had another thread about vacating a 12V device and decided, without checking phase, to connect similar colored wires together. That's what you see in the pictures in this thread with the wire nuts.

I'd suggest that the OP at least enlist a friend or neighbor that is conversant with 120V wiring, if not hiring an electrician.

BTW, try to buy those single gang boxes in the "shallow" variety. You will have a lot less box in your way.


I probably should have tried the hint method first myself. Everybody gets offended so easily nowadays. I stand by my opinion. OP doesn't know his backside from second base when it comes to proper line voltage electrical circuitry and practices. While we all want to be helpful, a platform such as a forum oftentimes offers such a mish-mash of suggestions that the end result becomes misinformation as interpreted by an OP. Enlisting a friend or neighbor "in the know" is a great idea. In some cases, so is hiring an electrician. It's a small project that wouldn't cost very much at all and most pros that I know would be flattered to have someone ask them to offer a little instruction for next time while doing the work.


It's funny that you would assume I haven't asked someone in person these same questions. Maybe I want to compare the answers I get here to what he tells me. There is no problem here and believe me I'm not the least bit offended. I'm more than used to it by now on this board. There is always someone like you in every thread on this forum who shows his rear end and like many others I just choose to ignore you.
Theories validated...
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
SparkDr wrote:
westend wrote:
SparkDr wrote:
dmullen wrote:
The outlet on the left side is labeled with a sticker as a GFCI outlet but has no test or reset button and looks exactly like the outlet on the other side. :?


It's probably GFI protected upstream in the circuit (likely the bathroom). FWIW, somebody should have at least suggested to the OP that a call to an electrician may be warranted. I'm all for DIY when it makes sense, but I get the feel from what I'm reading here that the OP should stay hands-off on this one. As a past Sparky in a previous lifetime, I can say with all honesty that I have not seen a recommendation to do what I would have done in this instance. Nor would I feel comfortable trying to explain it step by step in a forum. Be certain of what you are doing and do it safely when it comes to electricity. These things already go up like a matchstick without our help.
I tried to hint at that in a previous post. The OP had another thread about vacating a 12V device and decided, without checking phase, to connect similar colored wires together. That's what you see in the pictures in this thread with the wire nuts.

I'd suggest that the OP at least enlist a friend or neighbor that is conversant with 120V wiring, if not hiring an electrician.

BTW, try to buy those single gang boxes in the "shallow" variety. You will have a lot less box in your way.


I probably should have tried the hint method first myself. Everybody gets offended so easily nowadays. I stand by my opinion. OP doesn't know his backside from second base when it comes to proper line voltage electrical circuitry and practices. While we all want to be helpful, a platform such as a forum oftentimes offers such a mish-mash of suggestions that the end result becomes misinformation as interpreted by an OP. Enlisting a friend or neighbor "in the know" is a great idea. In some cases, so is hiring an electrician. It's a small project that wouldn't cost very much at all and most pros that I know would be flattered to have someone ask them to offer a little instruction for next time while doing the work.


It's funny that you would assume I haven't asked someone in person these same questions. Maybe I want to compare the answers I get here to what he tells me. There is no problem here and believe me I'm not the least bit offended. I'm more than used to it by now on this board. There is always someone like you in every thread on this forum who shows his rear end and like many others I just choose to ignore you.

SparkDr
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
SparkDr wrote:
dmullen wrote:
The outlet on the left side is labeled with a sticker as a GFCI outlet but has no test or reset button and looks exactly like the outlet on the other side. :?


It's probably GFI protected upstream in the circuit (likely the bathroom). FWIW, somebody should have at least suggested to the OP that a call to an electrician may be warranted. I'm all for DIY when it makes sense, but I get the feel from what I'm reading here that the OP should stay hands-off on this one. As a past Sparky in a previous lifetime, I can say with all honesty that I have not seen a recommendation to do what I would have done in this instance. Nor would I feel comfortable trying to explain it step by step in a forum. Be certain of what you are doing and do it safely when it comes to electricity. These things already go up like a matchstick without our help.
I tried to hint at that in a previous post. The OP had another thread about vacating a 12V device and decided, without checking phase, to connect similar colored wires together. That's what you see in the pictures in this thread with the wire nuts.

I'd suggest that the OP at least enlist a friend or neighbor that is conversant with 120V wiring, if not hiring an electrician.

BTW, try to buy those single gang boxes in the "shallow" variety. You will have a lot less box in your way.


I probably should have tried the hint method first myself. Everybody gets offended so easily nowadays. I stand by my opinion. OP doesn't know his backside from second base when it comes to proper line voltage electrical circuitry and practices. While we all want to be helpful, a platform such as a forum oftentimes offers such a mish-mash of suggestions that the end result becomes misinformation as interpreted by an OP. Enlisting a friend or neighbor "in the know" is a great idea. In some cases, so is hiring an electrician. It's a small project that wouldn't cost very much at all and most pros that I know would be flattered to have someone ask them to offer a little instruction for next time while doing the work.
May the Mods grant me the serenity to accept the opinions of those I cannot change,
the courage to offer input to those who are open to another way of thinking,
and the wisdom to shut up whenever I get too caught up in my own misconceived brilliance.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
SparkDr wrote:
dmullen wrote:
The outlet on the left side is labeled with a sticker as a GFCI outlet but has no test or reset button and looks exactly like the outlet on the other side. :?


It's probably GFI protected upstream in the circuit (likely the bathroom). FWIW, somebody should have at least suggested to the OP that a call to an electrician may be warranted. I'm all for DIY when it makes sense, but I get the feel from what I'm reading here that the OP should stay hands-off on this one. As a past Sparky in a previous lifetime, I can say with all honesty that I have not seen a recommendation to do what I would have done in this instance. Nor would I feel comfortable trying to explain it step by step in a forum. Be certain of what you are doing and do it safely when it comes to electricity. These things already go up like a matchstick without our help.
I tried to hint at that in a previous post. The OP had another thread about vacating a 12V device and decided, without checking phase, to connect similar colored wires together. That's what you see in the pictures in this thread with the wire nuts.

I'd suggest that the OP at least enlist a friend or neighbor that is conversant with 120V wiring, if not hiring an electrician.

BTW, try to buy those single gang boxes in the "shallow" variety. You will have a lot less box in your way.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
SparkDr wrote:
dmullen wrote:
The outlet on the left side is labeled with a sticker as a GFCI outlet but has no test or reset button and looks exactly like the outlet on the other side. :?


It's probably GFI protected upstream in the circuit (likely the bathroom). FWIW, somebody should have at least suggested to the OP that a call to an electrician may be warranted. I'm all for DIY when it makes sense, but I get the feel from what I'm reading here that the OP should stay hands-off on this one. As a past Sparky in a previous lifetime, I can say with all honesty that I have not seen a recommendation to do what I would have done in this instance. Nor would I feel comfortable trying to explain it step by step in a forum. Be certain of what you are doing and do it safely when it comes to electricity. These things already go up like a matchstick without our help.


I joined this forum to learn. Because of this forum I was able to hard wire a Progressive Industries EMS into the camper...learned how to pack wheel bearings...installed two Fantastic Vents...removed the oven and replaced with a new cooktop...installed shocks for the under bed storage...just to name a few. I learned by reading and asking questions and have saved a ton of money by not staying "hands off" and calling someone else to do the work and I plan to keep doing it that way. There are several intelligent people in this forum and I have not been steered wrong yet.

SparkDr
Explorer
Explorer
dmullen wrote:
The outlet on the left side is labeled with a sticker as a GFCI outlet but has no test or reset button and looks exactly like the outlet on the other side. :?


It's probably GFI protected upstream in the circuit (likely the bathroom). FWIW, somebody should have at least suggested to the OP that a call to an electrician may be warranted. I'm all for DIY when it makes sense, but I get the feel from what I'm reading here that the OP should stay hands-off on this one. As a past Sparky in a previous lifetime, I can say with all honesty that I have not seen a recommendation to do what I would have done in this instance. Nor would I feel comfortable trying to explain it step by step in a forum. Be certain of what you are doing and do it safely when it comes to electricity. These things already go up like a matchstick without our help.
May the Mods grant me the serenity to accept the opinions of those I cannot change,
the courage to offer input to those who are open to another way of thinking,
and the wisdom to shut up whenever I get too caught up in my own misconceived brilliance.

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
The outlet on the left side is labeled with a sticker as a GFCI outlet but has no test or reset button and looks exactly like the outlet on the other side. :?

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
beemerphile1 wrote:
dmullen wrote:



What would that "new work" box be attached to? For this purpose an "old work" box is needed.

My mistake, wrong picture. I have corrected.

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
budwich wrote:
disconnect at the break panel, mark the discounted cable. Do the same at the top (storage area), coil it up mark it put it behind your "fake wall / partition. You are done. That way, if you want to resell your trailer, the buyer may still want to get thing back to the way they were for what ever reason. If you cut and remove, then you are doing extra work and perhaps making extra work for them.



This makes the most sense from what I've read thus far. Even if you have no intention of selling your trailer, disconnecting from both ends, and simply marking the disconnected cables, in my opinion, is the safest solution.

Edit: Disregard. Didn't realize you still needed them powered.

Mike

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
dmullen wrote:



What would that "new work" box be attached to? For this purpose an "old work" box is needed.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Home Depot seems to have lower prices. I would use an outlet rated for 20 amps. (the ones with the T slot).

What is there is a disgrace, so fix it up properly.

If placing it behind a false wall, install it so it could be used in the future if you end up going to a convection/microwave at some time in the future.

The microwave outlet in my unit was the only one that did not need to be upgraded. I find myself using it more and more for doing breakfasts.


The false wall will just hide the wires. The two receptacles on either side of the cabinet will remain with the former microwave socket and wire replacing the receptacle on the right. I will be needing the line the microwave used for a convection oven when I camp with hookups so that will work out great.