All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Internet! Specifically video calling/conferencing! Johno02 wrote: Ten years you would have been lucky or very rich to even have voice service. If you are lucky or have LOTs of money, you might get what you want in another ten years. Over the air now just does not have the bandwidth to carry what you want except in limited local areas. Well I’m not that kind of lucky!! I know people do this though. I’ve seen posts of people who teach kids English oversees and that requires consistent video calls. Maybe they’re rich but I’d still like to hear about their set up.Re: Internet! Specifically video calling/conferencing! Bill.Satellite wrote: Try Google Duo. Works great! That’s what I tried yesterday and it was awful quality. Sound cutting out, horrible lag, my client kept saying they missed what I said.Re: Internet! Specifically video calling/conferencing! pianotuna wrote: What App are you trying to use? I used zoom on my old data plan and there was a lag on my clients end, I’ll be giving it another shot with my new data plan. Yesterday I tried to use google duo Andy it was awful quality.Re: Internet! Specifically video calling/conferencing! navigator2346 wrote: Maybe it is your video conferencing program you are using. I use a program called ZOOM No chop video using a VZ hotspot. I also use a T Mobile hotspot sometimes Zoom is what I’ve always used and have tried to use on data in the past but there was a lag. I haven’t used it on my current data plan though so maybe I’ll give it another shot. Do your hotspots use data? What areas are you using it in as far as more urban vs. rural? Thank you!Internet! Specifically video calling/conferencing!Hi All! Hoping to hear from those who use video calling or video conferencing on the road. What is your internet set up that allows you to do that? I am primarily in Canada but am in the US sometimes too. I need to see clients on an online video platform and apparently wrongfully assumed that getting a phone with a company claiming the best data coverage would allow me to do that on the road. The video is so choppy and cuts outs, even using an app that claims to work on 2G or 3G. The coverage map claims I’m in an area with LTE “super fast” and it’s showing LTE on my phone. I currently have access to my families home to use wifi as back up but I really want to be able to see my clients on the road wherever I am. How have you made it work? Thank you in advance!!Re: Hooking up backup camera in 1984 Vanguard jrloucks wrote: Well, here are some things to test: 1. Without the engine running, measure the voltage level on your class c chassis battery's terminals (this is the battery that starts the engine, not the 'house' battery). If it's the same (7-10v) as what you measured at the lights on the rear of your rig. You may simply have a bad or discharged chassis battery. 2. Start the engine (assuming you can) and again measure the voltage of your chassis battery's terminals. It should read 12v+ indicating the engine's alternator is charging the battery/system properly. With the engine still running, again measure the voltage level at the rear lights. If the two voltage measurements match (12v+) then this may also result in your back-up camera now working. (Again you may have a bad or discharged chassis battery.) 3. However, with the engine running, if you measure 12+ volts on your chassis battery and still measure 7-10v on the rear lights, that tells me there is a short or poor electrical connection on the rear lights somewhere. This is usually the result of a poor chassis ground connection. You can confirm a chassis grounding problem by connecting one end of a temporary wire to a good chassis/frame ground point and again measuring the voltage level at the rear lights using the temporary ground wire as the ground (negative) connection point. If the voltage level improves (12+), then you'll need to check all the ground connections on all the rear lights. Look for corroded screws, oxidation on bare wires and fix accordingly. Thanks for these suggestions! The chassis battery is running full at 12.5V. I believe I tested them with the engine running before but can't be certain so I will check again. Might be a ground issue. I'll bring this info to my friend who is helping me out and we'll test some things out. I appreciate your help!Re: Hooking up backup camera in 1984 Vanguard jrloucks wrote: Also, 7-10vdc may not be enough to turn on the camera. The camera may have a minimum voltage to operate, which may be closer to 12vdc. The installation manual 'should' provide technical specifications for the input power to the camera. e.g. "Input Voltage DC12~24" If not, the camera itself may have the input voltage stamped on it. That's what I am thinking is the problem. It does say 12-24V and worked perfectly fine on a 12V battery. Do you have any insights as to why my reverse lights and tail lights are only outputting 7-10V?Re: Hooking up backup camera in 1984 Vanguard jrloucks wrote: Sounds to me like you're not getting proper chassis ground and +12v electrical connection to the camera. The chassis ground is the outside metal cylinder of the back-up light bulb. The +12v (hot) is the center 'nib' on the bottom of the bulb. You have to get the camera wiring orientation correct or it won't power up for you. I installed a wireless back-up camera on my 1984 class c. I hard-wired the +12v wire from the camera to hot-on-ignition wire near the fridge (I was repairing the rear of the motor-home at the time so had access to the interior walls.) I used a stainless-steel machine screw with a lock-washer into the chassis for a common ground. See picture. I confirmed the rear metal siding was a good chassis ground before adding the camera. Click For Full-Size Image. Thank you! This is helpful. I was hoping someone else had set one up on a similarly old unit. All the tutorials are for newer vehicles.Re: Hooking up backup camera in 1984 Vanguard Re: Hooking up backup camera in 1984 Vanguard Harvey51 wrote: Just use a bare wire wound on each battery terminal to connect power to camera and monitor. It isn’t very complicated - just 12 volts to camera and monitor and a coax cable from camera to monitor. I chose to use power from the motorhome house (propane detector circuit) via a switch on the driver’s seat so I can use it while driving - very handy when pulling a trailer with kayaks and seeing wildlife without scaring it when camping. I mounted the camera at the top of the rear window, aimed at an angle so I can see the hitch and kayaks - very handy when hooking up and the angle provides a lot more distance sense than a camera mounted on the license plate. I can easily back up to half a foot from a post. The system I’m using supports both coax and wireless connection from camera to monitor. I use the coax in the motorhome but have installed another one in our 1992 van using wireless. Easier to install but I was a bit shocked this week when my friend who also has a DIY backup camera parked near our van. I had left the switch on and he got the view from my camera instead of his when he shifted out of reverse so no power to his camera. I did a bench test and it's working well! Booted right up. I tried to hook it up to my reverse light and then just a tail light. Both putting out about 7-10V when engaged and nothing. There's something happening on the camera wiring end. I'll attach some photos of what the set up is back there - hopefully you have some advice. Thanks! https://imgur.com/a/5oHeX25