BiggyJ
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Re: 12v lighting issue... Could use some help :) (32BHDS)
Actually I was thinking about getting out one of my lab power supplies and feeding the circuit with that to test it But I have not done it yet. Wife wants to go into town so I guess I'll get back to you guys later today. Have a great day, John Millry, Alabama.513Views0likes0CommentsRe: 12v lighting issue... Could use some help :) (32BHDS)
OK... above kitchen sink light. The one that works with it's own switch, regardless of weather the panel switch by the door is on or not. When I first tried to get a voltage reading, I read only around .x voltage. Then it raised to 4.xx. Switch on. No voltage with switch off. OK... other lights. No voltage present with switch off. When switch is turned on, voltage is random. Up to about 8v one second and down to .x to 0 the next.514Views0likes0CommentsRe: 12v lighting issue... Could use some help :) (32BHDS)
Well... best I can tell, they are. They are the only ones not working. All fuses are good and voltage is present on BOTH sides of the fuses. (ALL 12v fuses) I'm starting to get concerned about the power supply now. I never hear it come on any more. At least I do not hear the fan. Thanks. If you can please stay with me to help me it would be very much appreciated :)514Views0likes0Comments12v lighting issue... Could use some help :) (32BHDS)
Not sure where to put this. Move it if it is not where it should be. Thank you. 2007 Keystone Hornet 32BHDS Power Converter PM3-55-MBA OK... so I hate trying to figure out electrical issues in my 8 mo. (07) “new to me” travel trailer. This seems odd to me but may be a common lighting issue to someone here. Battery: 13.7v Control panel: All connectors with wires attached: 13.2v on fuse output side. Lights in bedrooms, bathroom and the slide-out will come on bright and as normal. The outside door light, the above kitchen sink light and the three lights that are in the center of the trailer and operate off their own switch, I'm having problems with. The outside door light and the three lights that are in the center of the trailer run by one switch plate. One switch for outside light and one switch for the three lights that are in the center of the trailer. The above kitchen sink light has it's own push button switch mounted on it. The three lights that are in the center of the trailer have their own switch as well but we just always leave the switches on and use the switch panel that controls them all. What they are doing: Started awhile back, flickering a bit, getting dim, (about 40% brightness) and every now and then, just go off. All of them. Now: sometimes, after turning on, they will come on slowly like the voltage is building up, while flickering. Sometimes they will not come on right away at all. I can leave the switch on and sometimes they will come on within a few seconds and sometimes they will come on 5-10-15 minutes later. And then they may just come on instantly at full brightness. Wiring and switches: switches seem functional when testing for continuity but why the hell I can put my DVM test leads across the two terminals and get 12 volts is new to me. I'm just used to the good old -12vdc and +12vdc In other words, one switch terminal has -12 on it and the other +12. And that’s the way it’s always been I guess. Seems like when the switch is closed, that would be a direct short! Guess not ? All internal lights are 12v. Things I am curious about: Do all lights go through the power center or are the ones that always work hooked up directly to the battery? Or should ALL wiring come in to the control panel from behind the CP mounting plastic box? Anyway, I sure would appreciate some help from someone. Pain for my wife to do the dishes with a flashlight. Also, please note that the Power Converter PM3-55MBA hardly ever comes on now. Matter of fact, I think I remember hearing it come on only twice in the past few days. Thank you, John PS – Other than your direct response help here, It would be very nice to have a wiring diagram for this TT. And possibly the correct way to test inverter/converter.1.7KViews0likes12CommentsRe: Rv 12v grounding question
Thank yoy guys. I wired it just like my diagram and it works fine. PS - I'm just used to working on 12 volt auto systems and electronic circuits so I expected if he ment a connection to the frame, he would just say chassis ground. Just through me a bit. Thanks again for the replies. All is well :) John239Views0likes0CommentsRv 12v grounding question
Hi everyone, I'm hooking up a new A/C, thermostat and control box for my live in travel trailer. Really different from everything else I have worked on. It's a Dometic system and they have there own way everything is done. Have to use their t-stat and control box. Where I need your help: I took the schematic and drew out a wiring diagram where I could understand it and uploaded it, then sent the link to the head tech where I bought everything and asked him to look at it. Here is that link: http://jaxehost.com/or/for-lynn.jpg And here is his reply: "I have looked at this and you have to connect a 12v ground signal to the wire on the number 2 connection . The control box will not send the ground out to the t-stat. Thank you" So... as you can see from my diagram, I just show a normal -12v lead. He is saying something about 12v ground. What does he mean that is different than what I have drawn? Thank you kindly for you expert help, John960Views0likes5Comments
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