North Star Trek - Captain’s Log – A Winter Exodus

[Dave_Pete]

One year ago - three weeks from tomorrow, we left Alaska and wrote the following posts in email messages to friends and family. We'd like to share the story and experience with you all here and now in the Alaska/Canada Forum. Today we offer the Introduction and first chapter called Final Preparations. Tomorrow we'll continue with travel day one, then each day a new chapter until we wrap up 10 days of travel and an "Afterward" covering final thoughts and logistics of the trip. We hope you enjoy our North Star Trek - Captain's Log - A Winter Exodus.

INTRODUCTION
In early November 2009, Dave and Ruth left their home in Wyoming (WY) for a new life, albeit temporary, in Fairbanks, Alaska (AK). Dave was to finish his career with this job move, perhaps spending as little as one year, maybe as long as three or more; and with such a move there’s always the chance of permanency.

Three years later, his career completed, they decide to move back home. They’ll be back amongst family, including their two adult age children and four grandchildren. And they’ll finally get to enjoy the fruits of their labors by really living in their Wyoming home, a place they’ve been building and remodeling for the past two decades and had only recently brought to an almost finished state before this move, and a previous one-year move to the Washington DC area in 2007 and 2008.

What follows is a humorous accounting of their winter exodus out of Alaska, three years and three weeks after the original trip there. The story was originally told in a series of email messages to their friends and family, in what Dave had styled as “Daily Captain’s Logs”.

Leaving Fairbanks, AK on November 27, 2012, they pick up the Alaska Highway – also called the ALCAN – in Big Delta. From there they drive the ALCAN’s 1373 miles along Alaska’s eastern interior, through Canada’s Yukon Territory (YT) and into British Columbia (BC), to Dawson Creek. From there they take what is know as the East Access Route through Canada’s Alberta (AB) province, reentering the United States in Montana (MT) and finally into Wyoming (WY).

In this work, the email messages have been edited and rewritten in a book format for the general reader. The entire trip is over 2800 miles and takes them 10 days. They are both drivers of two vehicles, including a trailer holding a third vehicle – their beloved 1954 Willys Jeep CJ3B - and their household goods. The trip includes plans to camp along the way, in an effort to control lodging and dining expenses, and to provide adventure.

Dave is driving a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 four-wheel drive pickup with a 5.9 liter Cummins Turbo-Diesel engine and the 48RE automatic transmission, outfitted with a 2003 Starcraft Lonestar pop-up slide-in truck camper, and pulling an 2009 Interstate 20’ tandem axle enclosed car-hauler/cargo trailer. Altogether the outfit weighs 20,000 lbs. Yes, Dave is pretty amazing!

Ruth is driving her smiley-face-yellow 2000 Jeep Cherokee with the venerable 4.0 liter inline six-cylinder engine and automatic transmission with the Selec-Trac transfer case, which offers both full or part-time four-wheel drive as road conditions dictate. It is packed full. Ruth is alacritous!

Enjoy the story as you travel along with Dave and Ruth in this North Star Trek, a winter exodus.

CAPTAIN’S LOG - FINAL PREPARATIONS

North Star Date: 11/26/2012
Location or Route: Fairbanks, AK
Travel Miles: 2823 - Proposed Trip Total
Weather Conditions: Cold. Tonight’s overnight temperatures are forecast to be around -25F/-32C. Skies are clear and there is no expected wind or precipitation.
Road Conditions: Mostly bare and dry for the initial and latter sections; snow and ice packed throughout the majority of mid-route.

9:11 PM (-20F/-29C)

Our preparations are nearly complete. We disassembled the rocker-recliners last night and loaded them into Ruth’s car. Since then we have been sitting on camp chairs. The minimally remaining household goods are still to be loaded out. We have the trailer out of the storage lot and parked outside here at the apartment complex. Ruth has the food and water stores in various staged locations throughout the apartment. In the morning I’ll install the portable CB radios and rooftop antennas, load out the camera bags and mobile devices and the electronic equipment will be ready to go. The trailer is close to maxed out in both space and gross weight. Here’s hoping all 325 of the truck’s horses stay healthy and well fed or we may well end up having to discard some of our possessions along the trail.

A cold air mass in the form of a surface high pressure system is sinking south from northern Alaska and Canada’s Northwest Territories. Forecast weather charts indicate it will move over our route and remain in place, perhaps for the next several days, pushing up against the coastal mountain ranges south of the Alaska Highway. Therefore, our route should remain clear and cold. That’s at least favorable for driving and scenery – we should have some magnificent photo opportunities – but with nighttime lows possibly into the -25 to -35 degree range, a whole new definition begins to emerge for the phrase “winter camping”!

Some nervousness has started to set in. Yes, we have two cars, so if there is trouble with one, having a spare vehicle is much better than just having a spare tire. But a major vehicular problem in the winter wilderness of Alaska or Yukon Territory presents its own unique concerns and challenges. Extreme cold is very hard on machinery and because while living in Alaska we haven’t had to depend on Ruth’s car as a daily driver, when it got to -15 or below we would just leave it parked. So it’s never been outfitted with: block heater, battery heater, engine and transmission oil pan heaters. Even so, it’s a good, dependable car and the truck is also in good condition and does have the above mention heaters. At those times when electrical plug-in is unavailable we can use the remote-start every few hours if necessary to keep the truck’s life-giving fluids from getting too cold.

Cold temperature stress on the trailer’s running gear is one of our greater concerns. We adjusted the trailer brakes and greased the wheel bearings in late Fall (August), and we have in our supplies an extra set of wheel bearings, races and seal, just in case one wheel suffers a failure.

We have a full set of tire chains for the truck, but none for the trailer – which theoretically might be helpful on a steep downhill run to prevent jack-knifing. And, we don’t need chains for Ruth’s mountain-goat-of-a-Jeep. Actually, we really don’t expect to need chains at all, what with the expected storm-free weather under this frigid arctic air-mass, a condition which typically only provides additional frozen precipitation accumulation on road surfaces in the form of a thin layer of ice crystals, and because I don’t usually chain-up until after I need them, and by then it’s too late and unnecessary.

Tonight we’ll get a good night’s sleep and tomorrow morning we’ll turn to a southeasterly heading from our “furthest north” abode. The condition called retirement, and the life changes associated with it - and of going home - have not yet taken up much of our mental excesses. Ahead of us we have miles and miles and hours and hours of solo-driving for those thoughts to begin to gel and to take on more definitive shape.

[Dave_Pete]

Well folks. Today marks the one year anniversary of our arrival home after this North Star Trek.

What a difference a year makes. Today we have decided against a 400 mile trip to visit family in another city due to forecast poor travel weather this weekend.

We've had over 2000 views. I hope that means we've brought some enjoyable reading to lots of people.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you.

Dave and Ruth

[DennisNYS]

Fantastic read.
You had me laughing many times.
Great writing style.
Thank you.

[quoyfab]

Great writing, it was a fun read. Keep on frolicking.:)

I loved the old 'Welcome to Big Wonderful Wyoming' sign. I first saw it in 1973.

[Dave_Pete]

I'm glad you enjoyed it. 🙂

[journey_indiana]

Thanks, I've enjoyed every bit of your adventure.
Journey Indiana

[Dave_Pete]

CAPTAIN’S LOG - AFTERWARD

North Star Date: 12/11/2012
Location or Route: Casper, WY.
Travel Miles: 2825 Total

11:11 AM (28F/-2C, Fair/Windy/Blue Skies – Smiling at Me)

Willie Nelson would have made for some good road music.

Ruth and I have now been home for a few days and have remained busy with family, unloading and unpacking, cleaning and reclaiming rooms, shopping for miscellaneous household goods, furnishings and cleaning materials, and in making minor home repairs - most particularly as associated with water systems such as the: RO filter system, water softener, leaky shut-off valves under sinks, etc.

Houses do not like being “shut-off” and going vacant for any great length of time. After putting our house through such discomfort for significant stretches of the past three years, we think we actually heard a relieved sigh emanate deeply from within the home as we sent water coursing through its veins, but it is possible we were just picking up the sound of various water leaks.

Our unseasonably warmer weather, and resultant lack of snow accumulation, allowed me to gas up the mower and cut the wild-growth which had taken over our back-yard auxiliary parking area. Once we finish unloading the camper and trailer, we can park them there out of the way.

The “mow” job had only been completed for about two hours before the first 1-2” of snow fell behind a cold front on Saturday. Hope I don’t have to chain-up to get in and out of it; I HATE chaining up!

In preparation for our “Beginning of the World Party” with our family and a few close friends on the afternoon and evening of Friday, December 22, 2012, at 4:11 PM - exactly one day and 12 hours after the end of the world, I had to remove leaves, debris and snow from the patio.

Because snow had fallen on the leaves blown in to the protected area, I couldn’t decide whether it would be best to use a leaf rake or a snow shovel, so I took an old rake and an old shovel, and I combined the two into a tool I am calling a “Shrake!”

I am still working out the bugs on this new contraption, for example – I don’t know whether to push or pull it, but if it turns out as I expect I might have some additional income in retirement. Can you just imagine how many men would pay top dollar for this thing for the simple reason that it combines both fall and winter chores. And perhaps more importantly, it justifiable puts off fall chores until after hunting season is over! So we got that going for us - which is good.

On Saturday we finished unloading Ruth’s little yellow angel – the Jeep Cherokee. It felt like those comedic videos where they lapse the photography as you watch an entire NFL football team crawl out of a small car. From behind the front seats we removed: two rocker-recliners - not including their removable backs which were in the trailer - five over-stuffed pieces of mid-sized luggage, several plastic shoe boxes of miscellaneous contents, several outer-wear clothing items, a variety of other small and pliable items from the nooks and crannies, and the entire Oakland Raiders football team.

In quiet moments, usually my morning wake-up hours, I put together the trip expense report. It’s never inexpensive to move across country, but we have always tried to save money where we could, especially when we’ve had the physical and logistical capabilities to do the work ourselves. For example, we moved ourselves into our Fairbanks home three years ago, including self-delivery of three new appliances up flights of outside deck-stairs using a two-wheel dolly, and we did so when the temperature was -33F! Our trip expense report follows:
• Total Trip Expense (Fuel, Lodging, Food, Misc.) - $3519, not including the costs of the pre-prepared foods made by Ruth in Fairbanks, some of which had to be thrown out due to freezing, and some of which we are still eating, or which are being eaten by excited children and grandchildren, most specifically Ruth’s cookies and those mixed nuts!
• Total Fuel (Gas, Diesel, Propane) - $2035.70 (most expensive gasoline - $5.57/gal, diesel - $5.64/gal both in Fort Nelson.
• Gas Usage (the Little Yellow Angel) – 148.4 gallons (resulting in 18.98 MPG average, including warm up periods and jump-starting assistance. Go Jeep!)
• Diesel Usage (the omnipotent Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel) – 278.69 gallons (resulting in 10.10 MPG average, including warm up periods and ineffective overnight operations that one night. It’s not bad mileage considering the overall weight of the outfit was 20,000 lbs!)
• Propane Usage (The Little Furnace That Could and Finally Did) – 7.93 gallons (resulting in 1.59 NPG {nights per gallon})
• Total Lodging (RV Park, Plug-in, Hotel) - $653.55
• RV Park and/or Plug-in - $139.75 (resulting in $27.95/night average for 5 nights)
• Hotel with or without Plug-in - $513.80 (resulting in $128.45/night average for 4 nights)
• Total Food (Restaurant and Groceries, not counting pre-prepared in Fairbanks foods; did we mention self-prepared foods save LOTS of money?) - $300.04
• Dining Out - $252.48 (resulting in $42.02/double meal average for 6 double meals of a trip total of 30 double meals at three meals/day for 10 days)
• Groceries - $47.56 (for one evening double meal, plus fresh produce, bread and dairy for trip remainder)
• Firearms: Shipping/Insurance/Border Fees - $94.69

It’s not unrealistic to say this trip could have cost five or six times what it did had we flown out and shipped our goods and vehicles. It would have also cost a lot more had we eaten every meal at a restaurant, or stayed each night in a hotel. And to our great advantage, we have learned that minor difficulties provide splendid material for humorous writing! Without the seed of reality to generate ideas, we’d never have been able to make up such stories.

Ruth is the greatest partner a man could ever have. You could never find one better if you searched the whole world-wide-web over; and I don’t care how good you are with Google Search! Of course I may be a bit biased.

This trip could have been very unpleasant, were it not for the way Ruth and I work together and how we each do our own part and then we do some more of something else. This is not a trip to be taken lightly. Having said that, it is not a trip to avoid.

Life is nothing if not a sequence of opportunities to try out stuff. Pick at a bit of this, swallow a bunch of that. Try something on for size and then maybe set it aside. Try on something else, perhaps to wear forever.

We are all individuals and what is good for one does not necessarily work for another. Don’t worry about that other guy not fitting into your paradigm; he has his own life to live and his own choices to make and it is not up to us do tell him what those should be. I think that is what one remarkable man meant when he said, “Judge not, that ye be not judged”.

Let the provision of God’s awesome Universe open up your own opportunities to experience life and to “become”. You too could make this trip, or perhaps you’d like to try something different! Garth Brooks said it quite right when he sang, “Life is not tried, it is only survived, if you’re standing outside the fire.” Incidentally, Garth Brooks makes for some real good road music.

[Dave_Pete]

CAPTAIN’S LOG - DAY 10

North Star Date: 12/6/2012
Location or Route: Billings, MT to Casper, WY.
Travel Miles: 276 (2825 - Cumulative)
Weather Conditions: A weak cold front came through overnight bringing mostly cloudy skies and cooler early-morning temperatures that warmed quickly after sunrise.
Road Conditions: Bare and Dry
Animals Observed: Cattle, Horses, Mule Deer, Pronghorn Antelope

10:47 AM (38F/3C)

Just pulled out of the Yellowstone River RV Park in Billings, situated appropriately on the Yellowstone River. Seems we have to pull this big rig four miles back through downtown Billings – the reverse of what we drove last night – just so we can get back to the airport on the north side of town; need to stop into the Alaska Air counter at the terminal building to pick up a package, that is to say our Canadian contraband.

1:25 pm (43F/6C, Light Winds)

Had a bit of a scare pulling this heavy trailer up the steep grade north of Billings and just south of the airport. The engine temperature gauge rose rapidly into the red and I could smell the heat. I pulled over as soon as I could but then the temperature dropped quickly once the task was called off. I’ve never seen it do that before, and it hasn’t since. It must have been the coolant’s first cycle of the morning; I’m convinced there are no anomalies. So we got that going for us - which is good.

We found the Alaska Air desk and due to part-time hours of operation they weren’t there. The sign said they’ll be back at 1:45 PM. Dang, that’s going to throw us back. Well, nothing we can do but wait.

We found a restaurant and had an early lunch. While there we called the Alaska desk – early – and we got an answer; they could accommodate us. So we picked up our package, drove back down the grade around the east side of Billings this time, fueled both vehicles and washed all the glass and lights, then we hit the road.

Back on the highway now just east of Billings. We called the kids, “We’ll be home by Six”. Johnny Cash makes for some good road music.

3:00 PM (40F/4C)

The “Welcome to Wyoming” highway sign on the Montana and Wyoming border is coming up - must get a good shot; it’s very important to this story. I hope it’s in such a setting to where I can compose a good shot and get the camera zoom at the right level.

That can be tricky while driving (don’t text and drive). You have to keep one eye on the road and one eye on the photo composition. Have to keep one hand on the wheel and one hand operating the camera: verify which auto setting: Sports-fast shutter, Scenery-rich colors, Sunset-long shutter but deep colors.

You have to point the camera while trying to miss the vehicle roof posts and dirt spots on the glass, zoom an appropriate amount to compose the subject, partially press the shutter release for the auto-focus, hold the shot while auto-focus completes without jiggling (dang bouncy road) and then “Click” - you have your shot!

“Voila”, piece of cake”, all while moving down the road at 70 MPH. It’s like a well-coordinated dance performance. Who says white guys can’t dance?! But you get a lot of poor shots doing this and thank goodness for digital photography!

“Welcome to Wyoming” sign getting close; been counting the miles, been watching the map. Must get a good shot, it’s very important to this story; did I already say that? Concentrate, remove distractions, breathe - don’t forget to breathe, Oooommmmmm (open your eyes you idiot!).

There it is ahead, dang - a big ugly truck is parked next to it, okay just go with it - compose the truck into the shot. So how to make it interesting? The sign’s in a shadow, the light’s not right. Dang - it’s on an outside corner at the top of this hill. This is going to be tricky! You can do it - concentrate. Okay here we go! One eye on the road, one eye on the shot, one hand on the wheel, one hand on the camera. Concentrate, compose…

“BREAKER ONE NINE GOOD BUDDY OF MINE - GET A PICTURE OF THE SIGN!”

Pay no attention to the voice on the radio, concentrate, compose the shot, work around that big ugly truck, it’s coming up fast, is the zoom too much? Yes it is! There’s no time to adjust, make it work…

“DAVE! - GET A PICTURE OF THE SIGN!”

Concentrate, ignore the voices in your head, she’s just trying to help…

“GET A PICTURE OF THE SIGN!”

Shut Up! “Click” SHOOT! It’s out of focus!

“Thanks for the reminder, my Wild Wyoming Flower – Superman out.” Grrrrrrrrrr.

3:45 PM (40F/5C)

South of Sheridan near Story, Wyoming. We’re about two hours from Casper and “America The Beautiful” makes for some good road music, but just once; then you have to shut it all off and just look – just get it into your head. You don’t need entertainment when driving through Wyoming, not if you know how to look.

When we first arrived 26 years ago we used to return to Utah and tell family and friends what a wonderful shade of gray everything was. Since those days of good-natured ridicule we’ve come to really appreciate its finer subtleties, in much the same way life-long Alaskans view their home.

An original Wyoming co-worker of mine once told me, “In Wyoming you don’t have to go anywhere, because you can see for three days”, and he was right. Oh how we have missed our grand vistas, our open spaces, our long distance views. Even with an overcast, the evening sky is gorgeous. The visual expanse of Wyoming makes for some good road music.

4:22 PM (38F/3C)

It’s sunset, 93 miles to go. Over the past 10 travel days, Ruth’s speed has increased by an average of about 3 MPH per day. At first it was due to improving road conditions, and eventually it was because I was in the lead and if she wanted to find her way home she better step up and keep up.

There were times when she and her little yellow angel Jeep behind me looked like a water-skier who had fallen, but hadn’t let go of the rope, as she flapped back and forth between my rear-view mirrors in her tenacious confidence “I can get back up, I can get back up!”

But tonight, as she began to recognize familiar landmarks, and read road-signs that used familiar names, she passed me at a clip and like a horse heading to the barn she single-mindedly put the hammer down.

I had to ask that ol’ Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel to somehow find it within itself to muster out just a few more horses, just a couple more foot pounds of torque on these grades. Stick with her. You don’t want her to arrive home alone.

5:43 PM 42F/5C)

We just broke out over the ridge north of Casper. There she is - in all her gorgeous night-time beauty, the city lights of Casper town! We’re 15 minutes from the house.

“Breaker one nine, Wildflower of mine, you gonna take that west side go around?”

“That’s a big ten-four there Superman. We’ll drop on down through the west side o’ town, make re-entry on the 220”

“Ten Four Sunflower.”

6:03 PM (42F/5C)

The road and weather conditions we enjoyed today are unusual for this time of year. We could just as easily have encountered blizzard conditions from Edmonton all the way to Casper, causing poor visibilities and treacherous road surfaces.

The Billings to Casper segment of the trip has every bit as steep of grades as those we drove south of Fort Nelson into Dawson Creek, an exception being that that these are two-lane highways with greater vehicle speeds, but the grade sections can be quite long.

We were fortunate. We’ll get a final logistics report out within a few days, but for now, we’re home.

“Well lookie there Wildflower, the kids have on every light in the house!”

Day 10 Pics

[Dave_Pete]

CAPTAIN’S LOG - DAY 9

North Star Date: 12/5/2012
Location or Route: Lethbridge, AB to Billings, MT.
Travel Miles: 405 (2549 - Cumulative)
Weather Conditions: Partly cloudy with strong south-southwesterly winds shifting to northwesterly. Initially we encountered 30-35 mph crosswinds and quartering headwinds with higher gusts to 60 or 70. By mid-route it shifted to cross and quarterly tailwinds and finally tailwinds and lessening wind for the last 50 miles or so. Did we mention it was windy?
Road Conditions: Bare and Dry.
Animals Observed: Many Cattle and Horses.

9:11 AM (37F/3C, Breezy)

Just completed and sent yesterday’s Captain’s Log; now where is Ruth? There she is, outside. What is she doing? Frolicking? Is she frolicking? She barely has any clothes on! “Ruth! Get in here!” I urgently instruct from the open section of the camper door, “What are you doing? What will the neighbors think?” I can’t get her attention. She’s dancing and spinning with arms outstretched in what can only be described as that scene of Jodie Foster in “Nell” where she was “Twayin’ in ‘a Win”. I’ll have to go out and get her I guess – oh for crying out loud, this is embarrassing!

“Ruth what are you doing? What will the neighbors think?”

“What neighbors?” she replied, fully displaying that beautiful smile of hers.

“The full-timers – those who are wintering here in the RV Park” I said.

“And they would be where?” she countered.

I looked around and couldn’t see anybody except that guy with the septic-tank pumper-truck, and he was far enough away that we couldn’t smell it. Hmmm, I guess she had a point. And it was really nice out.

“It’s just so nice out” she said, “I couldn’t stand it, I’m swaying in the wind! Do you want to join me?”

I looked around again. Yeah – it might be nice. It’s not as if the guys at work are here, or my hunting partners. Nobody will ever have to know, and even if somebody did see us they’d make their judgments against Alaskans, not Wyomingites, because the license plates show Alaska – cool. I took off two of my outer layers, I hadn’t needed them anyway; it was just out of shear habit that I was wearing them.

Wow! Feel that heat? Feel that freedom? It’s so unusual!

We spun around in the tropical-like breeze and felt warming rejuvenation on our exposed flesh.

“Dave what is that bright, warm, round thing in the sky?”

“I think it’s the sun Ruth. I know it’s odd, it’s so high up in the sky - but I’ve read about this. The farther south you go, the higher the sun is - and the warmer it feels. It actually moves from the eastern horizon to the western and takes a path over the top of you. It doesn’t just swing around in a big circle within a protective distance of the horizon, barely daring to show itself as if it were frightened of some great sky devil or something”.

We “Twayed in ‘a Win’” and frolicked for over an hour!

11:57 AM (44F/6C, Strong Winds)

Just outside Lethbridge. We got onto the highway after packing up and leaving the RV Park and after making a quick photo stop at the pullout to view the trestle bridge. There’s some wind, but the roads are nice and clear. Next stop fuel - or the border crossing - whichever comes first. Who Do You Love (George Thorogood), Go Your Own Way (Fleetwood Mac), Tuff Enuf (Fabulous Thunderbirds) makes for some good road music.

1:21 PM (44F/7C, Strong Winds)

Just got through Customs. Thank goodness we hadn’t bought oranges in Canada; I think we could have gone to prison. And we’ve all heard about those Canadians jails, Eh? Or would it have been on the US side? I don’t know; these border crossings confuse me. I expect terrorist fruit-growers are putting explosives in oranges these days. Keep that in mind next time you go to the airport; maybe you better put your oranges in your checked bags. The US Border Agent wasn’t at all concerned about my firearms, so we got that going for us - which is good.

We got back into the US without bringing a single Canadian coin or currency, unlike last time. In Edmonton we’d had to exchange a few dollars for Loonies - the affectionate name for the Canadian dollar coin – so we could use the RV park showers. We still had three of those left over, and spent that on the free Wi-Fi they charged for.

We had been carrying about $27 Canadian coin - consisting of quarters and smaller - that my Dad had originally collected many years ago from his stamp machine business. My Mom had kept it in recent years and had given it to our son three years ago just before his Alaska road-trip to bring us Ruth’s little yellow angel.

On his way, he had forgotten to use his “bag o’ coin” and gave it to us before flying home. We hadn’t been able to exchange it in Fairbanks, because banks “don’t do coin”, and so we had it on hand for this trip.

Today we spent it on Chinese-Canadian “Fireworks” for our “Beginning of the World” party scheduled on 12/22/12 at our home in Wyoming, providing the world doesn’t end the day before.

We’re about one hour out of Great Falls - put the pedal to the metal. LA Woman (Doors), Baby Likes to Rock It (Tractors), Addicted to Love (Robert Palmer) makes for some good road music.

3:16 PM (48F/9C, Strong Winds)

Just got through Great Falls. We love the Big Sky country of Montana. “O beautiful for spacious skies, for amber waves of grain, for purple mountain majesties, above the fruited plain”. Fairbanks co-worker Trek is from here. Hang in there buddy, your years in Fairbanks will pay off and then you too will go home! Get Out of Denver & Let It Rock (Bob Seger), Sharp Dressed man (ZZ Top), and that “Slinky Toy” jingle make for some good road music.

{First Mate Attachment for Captain’s Log}

3:47 PM (48F/9C, Gale Force Winds)

Ok, I’m steady at 200 feet behind him, so I shouldn’t lose CB radio reception, now if I can just keep from running into him. I’m HUNGRY! If I can just get a sandwich out of the lunch bag and still stay on the road. Look down for just a second – not too long, there it is – the lunch bag, eyes back to the road, simple correction, feel for the bag, flip it open, reach in to remove the sandwich. Ok good, I have the sandwich in hand, what’s that noise?! The RUMBLE STRIP! Eyes back to the road, both hands on the wheel. Oh my gosh that darn wind! I was in the other lane! Okay let’s try it again, there’s a hill ahead, he might have to slow down, that would be good for me. Reach… feel… grasp… good, wait - that’s not a sandwich, must be the cookies, quick look, there it is, grasp the sandwich, Oh my gosh that darn wind! Eyes on the road, both hands on the wheel, slight correction - get back in your lane, good, now where is Dave, is that him way up there? Darn that Cummins Turbo Diesel! Have to catch up, both hands on the wheel, press down on the pedal. I’m so HUNGRY! Maybe I can wolf down something at the next fuel stop.

{Same time, same place, except back in the Caption’s Chair}

3:47 PM (48F/9C, Light to Moderate Wind)

That wind is a bit challenging, not so bad though. If it’s not straight crosswind and not too gusty this rig sucks it right in. Another hill? No sweat – I love this Cummins Turbo Diesel. What a smart move when we chose diesel over gas. I wanted to be able to set that cruise control and forget about it; not have to think about these hills slowing us down. Have to credit the high torque. I love this truck! Reckon I could eat something, not too hungry, but I need to keep up my strength, and I can make corrections with my knees - but I’ll have to interrupt my picture taking for awhile, want to play it safe. Music Player is set, Ruth is in proper position, good, now where’s that lunch. Hmmmm this looks good: sandwich, chips, cookies – mmmmmm cookies – carrots and radishes, and an Apple! I’m so glad Ruth always includes an apple. Nice - looks good, eyes back to the road, everything good. Guess I’ll start with the sandwich. Wow! Nice climb up that hill, I love this Cummins Turbo Diesel. Why is Ruth lagging way back there again? Man that’s a good sandwich!

5:35 PM (48F/9C, Light Wind)

Just got fuel; two more hours to Billings. I had to fuel on one side of the truck-stop building at the diesel pump while Ruth fueled on the other side at the gas pump. After I fueled and checked vehicle fluid levels and washed all the glass, I stepped inside to use the facilities; then I went looking for Ruth.

I found her wolfing down a sandwich at the gas pump. “For crying-out-loud Ruth, what’s wrong with you? Are you hungry or something? You act like you haven’t eaten all day!”

8:11 PM (50F/10C, Light Wind)

Just got all set up at the Yellowstone River RV Park in Billings. Nice place – except it’s closed. Well actually you can self check-in and pay for electric and free Wi-Fi, but with the restrooms, laundry, showers and office closed for the season we’re not going to be able to get that last shower before arriving home tomorrow. Well - we’ll work that out in the morning. Been a long day, time to get some sleep, getting sleepy, close eyes…

Day 9 Pics

[journey_indiana]

I have looked forward to each day of adventure. Often wondered what it would be like to drive the Alcan in the winter. Keep it coming!!!
Journey Indiana

[Dave_Pete]

You're very welcome quoyfab. Three more days. Two of travel and a final "afterword".

[quoyfab]

Thanks for the daily narratives on that adventure, dave pete.

[Dave_Pete]

CAPTAIN’S LOG - DAY 8

North Star Date: 12/4/2012
Location or Route: Edmonton, AB to Lethbridge, AB.
Travel Miles: 313 (2144 - Cumulative)
Weather Conditions: Clear skies and strong easterly winds initially, lessening through mid-route and strengthening out of the west at the end of the day.
Road Conditions: 3”-4” of snowfall two nights ago was blowing across the highway for the stretch from Edmonton to Red Deer, melting and refreezing on the sun-radiation warmed surfaces, and along with the high winds caused extremely hazardous driving conditions. Mostly bare and dry from Red Deer to Lethbridge.
Animals Observed: Cattle, and quite a number of Rush Hour Calgarians.

“Breaker one nine sweet child o’ mine, you got Superman here, c’mon?”

“C’mon back, you big handsome hack, you got the flower in a plain yellow wrapper, c’mon?”

“Yeah, that’s a big ten-four there Sunflower, well we better get this caravan onto Highway 2 and take it southbound to McCloud; from there it’s eastbound to that Trestle-Bridge town and another night on the shut-down, ten-four.”

We had wind in store on December four when we left that Edmonton town; from a little know joint, name o’ Sandy Point on the western belt go-around. I was running front door, not tired and sore, ‘cause we had our rest at the Embers, we were back on the road with our regular load and a banshee blowin’ cross-winders.

“Yer rig taking this wind ok Superman?”

“That’s a big ten-four Sunflower, it’s stuck to the road like glue. You’re little yellow angel might have more trouble; how’s that wind hitting you?”

“It takes a strong left arm, but don’t be alarmed, I’ll keep it pointed out straight. If we stay on task and don’t go too fast we’ll be there before it gets late.”

“Ten-four Sunflower”

By the time we got to that Stampede town, the wind had-a come on down, but now we had in sight, a new foe to fight, in the thick of those Calgary clowns. So for now I’m retired, and I don’t want re-hired, and I don’t need a rocking chair, it’s just me in the lead, on my worthy ol’ steed and the flower watchin’ out the back door, ten-four.

“Hey little flower, you okay back there? You wanna ride up front for a bit?”

“Negotory good buddy, ‘cause I’m feeling okay, I can stay right here all day. We got miles to go, so I’ll watch your back door, let trusty ol’ SAL show the way.”

11:27 AM (0F/-18C and -17F Wind Chill)

The wind was only about 15-20 knots at the RV Park near Edmonton, but as we got up onto the highway, we saw significant increases to maybe 30 or 35 knots of steady crosswinds right out of the east as we drove southbound. All the snow from two nights ago was blowing across the sun radiation warmed pavement, melting and refreezing, and drifting in places. It was very treacherous driving and there was quite a bit of traffic, now that we were back into the higher populated areas and on interstate-like highways.

There was a great deal of tractor-trailer traffic and of course cars and pickups of various kinds, each slowing down and speeding up for their various personal reasons. We saw several accidents where people had been blown off the road, or were driving too fast and had lost traction and ended up out in the barrow pits. There were at least two multiple vehicle accidents.

We stayed in the flow as much as possible and just fought our way through it. CW McCall makes for some good road music - but I didn’t dare listen to him, or to anybody else for that matter, as I wanted to devote all my concentration on driving and the traffic around me – and of course on taking snapshots.

3:17 PM (35F/2C)

We took an exit at Red Deer, south of Edmonton by a couple of hours, and fueled the vehicles, also refilling the propane tanks. Temperatures are above freezing; snow and ice is melting off the rigs and the roads. The wind has died down quite a bit too, but even though the road has improved, traffic is taking a very long time to spread out after so many miles of reduced speeds. Beethoven’s Symphonies performed by the London Symphony Orchestra makes for some good road music.

3:51 PM (42F/4C)

We’re north of Calgary and starting to see and smell lots of cattle. These are some of the sights and smells of our great plains that we have sorely missed over the past three years. Looking out over the vastness of this land reminds us of our beloved high-plains of eastern Wyoming. You cannot take a picture of this scene and get the right idea; you have to view it peripherally for it to make any sense: side to side, and top to bottom.

The temperature is rising rapidly; already up to 42F! This morning our Fairbanks friends were at -37F; that’s a shocking 80 degree temperature differential! May God have pity on your souls! We are not with you physically, but our hearts remain with you and our thoughts will never be far.

“Ruth, do you remember that guy I used to work with in Fairbanks?” Uhhh… what was his name?”

5:18 PM (45F/7C)

We hit Calgary at rush hour, eight lanes of 10-20 mph bumper to bumper traffic for over an hour. After getting through the metropolitan area I got on the phone with Bridgeview RV Park in Lethbridge and received self check-in instructions for when we arrive after business hours. SAL says we’re less than two hours away.

We stopped at one exit to use the camper facilities (gotta love a house on your back). We were standing out in the wind in long shirt sleeves and smelling the moist earth and melting snow and breathing in the fresh water-vapor infused atmosphere of a place that actually gets air-flow (that’s High Plains speak for wind).

7:11 PM (47F/8C)

We pulled into the Bridgeview RV Park just west of Lethbridge and picked a site. Setting up camp, we’re walking around in shirt sleeves; no gloves, no hats, no ear muffs. We’re not making well-coordinated mad dashes from one inside warm place to another. The snow and ice are gone from the trailer and vehicles. What’s left over is a filthy coat of two-thousand miles of road grime.

“Hey! Let’s warm up those last two meatball subs you made and have a nice little dinner in the camper.”

Day 8 Pics

[Dave_Pete]

CAPTAIN’S LOG - DAY 7

North Star Date: 12/3/2012
Location or Route: Edmonton, AB.
Travel Miles: 0 (1831 - Cumulative)
Weather Conditions: Irrelevant - We didn’t travel.
Road Conditions: Not important - we stayed off them.
Animals Observed: Just West Edmonton Mall shoppers.

Six days did Dave and Ruth travel along the Alaska Highway, and on the seventh day they rested.

In the beginning, along the fair and frozen banks of the river of Ta-Na-Na, we looked upon the chaos of our apartment and of our remaining household goods, and whilst withstanding the trials of the last load-out, and the tribulations of the camper furnace not lighting, and of the truck batteries not powering in the depths of the excessively cold night and throughout the first morning, and we tried to make order out of the trip we were about to take, and lo, it was without form.

But eventually we got underway, and after a few hours of driving in the daylight the sun set and it was dark, and it was the end of the first morning and it was the beginning of the first evening, but there was a full moon and we witnesseth the separation of the day and of the night, and got through customs okay, except of course that they exact a high price for our 2nd Amendment rights.

And we made our camp at the Talbot Arm on Destruction Bay of Kluane Lake - in the wilderness territory of Yukon - and we had outrun the frigid temperatures, and we watched the changing lights of the sky and we recognized the warmer temperatures of the chosen campsite, and we decided these were good, and we called it the first day.

And on the next day we got up in the middle of the night, to try and bring warmth to our little camper and to restore life to our frozen bodies, which had been overrun by the Minus 33 Degree Monster - yea even unto the 33rd Degree Mason - the beast spoken of by the weather forecaster David, yea that creepeth over all the land from the north.

And we eateth at the cafe and brought sustenance to our bodies and we cleanseth the teeth, and when we got underway we saw the clear skies turn to broken and to overcast, and we saw the sunlight shining on the firmament of the mountains and it was beautiful, and the clouds reduced the beauty of the sun but little, and the awesome scenery was no less amazing.

And we rolled into Whitehorse and found an Inn to accommodate our freezing bodies, yea even the “Gold Rush Inn” - known throughout the wilderness of Yukon as an historic place - and we took a warm bath, and we took a warm bed, and we shared in hot food, and we saw that these were good and we called it our second day.

And in the morning we awoke, and we found that the truck had given up the ghost, yea even the Dodge Ram 2500 with the Cummins Turbo-Diesel, and we were sore afraid. And lo, we were able to bring life back to the troubled conveyance, and we breathed fresh life into its worthy soul from the depths of the little yellow Jeep, yea even the little yellow angel - which remains as a constant companion - yea even a Guardian Angel of the spirit of Ruth.

And so we drove in frigid temperatures, and we discovered new ways to eat frozen foods, frozen foods of every kind, each after its own kind and after its own seed, and we took in nourishment of all frozen kinds until we came to the lake of Watson, and we knew that we must find a place that would consent to let us plug in, so as to keep the worthy truck alive throughout the banishment of the cold and lonesome night.

And we did so and we were plugged in, and all set up in the comfort of yet another hotel room, yea even at the house of Andrea, and we contemplated our condition and we saw that it was good, and the morning and the evening were our third day.

And on the morn we witnesseth the signs and the signposts of the Signpost Forrest - in the south of the wilderness of Yukon, and on the shores of the lake of Watson - and we came upon the mountains and the high lands which separate the wilderness of Yukon in the west, and in the north, from the plains of the great continent, and we crossed the great northern Rockies of the Ca-Na-Da.

And we saw the Elk, and we saw the Fox, and we saw the elusive Sasquatch and many Bison, each of their kind and also many Caribou, each of their own kind, and of their own seed.

And at the top of the mountain we were sorely tested by the awful winds of the evil place, yea even the hot waters of the devil’s abode - known from before the beginning of time as “Liard” - and tho’ we were sorely tempted, we abstained from the lustful pleasures of the body in the hot springs, and we stayed on the righteous path and continued our journey, and we traveled for hours in the darkness, and in the final hour we were rewarded by the lights of the city in the civilized region of Columbia, yea even of British Columbia - in the Fort of Nelson - and we saw the Christmas lighting of the joyful people of Nelson, and we fueled the mighty beast and we fueled the little yellow angel, and we saw that it was good and the morning and the evening were our fourth day.

And after a comfortable stop at the Fort of Nelson, and in a grandiose accommodation, yea even an accommodation of the ancient Ra-Ma-Da, yea even an accommodation fit for a king with even a king-sized bed, but with unleavened cabinets and a kitchenette, and after hearing a voice in the backroom of the continental breakfast, rising in anger and in long-suffering righteous wrath against a woman of non-perfection, we journeyed again along a road less traveled.

We made our way up hills and down dells, and up excruciatingly difficult grades of poor traction and soiled clothing, and we finally made it to the top and saw that it was good. And so we came to another Inn, yea even an Inn of Comfort - known in the Creek of Dawson as the Comfort Inn - and it had been a hilarious morning, and it had been a terrifying evening, and we called it the fifth day.

And as we departed the Creek of Dawson - in the morning of the sixth day - we marveled in wonder at the works of mankind and at the fruits of his labors, and we saw the road that man had built, and we marveled at the service of man amongst his kind, and of each type of service, each in kind and in its own way, and we recognized how each kind of service increases upon the next.

And we reflected on how we had opened the stores of food, and had removed the frozen rib, and how Ruth had convinced Dave to eat a frozen apple, and we decided it was good.

And we had seen that we were naked, and we could see that we were in danger of frostbite, and so we had clothed ourselves with down, and with microfibers, and with fleeces of every kind.

And therefore we had the strength, and we had the temperateness, to move on down the highway at an ever greater pace, almost as it were on the wings of angels, yea even of a little yellow angel in the spirit of Ruth. And we came ever closer, with each passing mile, to our home and rightful place, and we looked upon our progress, and we felt it in our depths, and we saw that it was good.

And thus our journey over the Alaska Highway, and even unto the town of Edmond was ended, and we were fatigued, and we were in need of rest, and of solace, and of rejuvenation, and for buying additional stores of unblemished foods.

And so we replenished our supplies, and we brought forth fresh produce, yea even fruits and vegetables of every kind and fresh meat, and we partook and replenished our souls and we nourished our bodies.

And we basked in the warmth of the little camper furnace, and in the light of the twelve-volt battery, yea even of the 120 volts of AC current, from the post which riseth up from the earth. And we retired to our bed, yea even the bed that had suffered at the hands of the -33 Degree Monster, and we saw that it was good, and we called it our sixth day.

So we took our rest, and we made a day off from the road, and we paid the price for two nights at the RV park, yea even the park of glowing embers, known in all the land as the “Glowing Embers RV Park”, on the west side of the great city, yea even of the town of Edmond, and we parked the huge beast for all of one day, whilst we took the little yellow angel to the east - to locate the Mall of Greatness on the west of the town of Edmond - and we came unto the Great Mall, and it was the seventh day and we shopped!

The West Edmonton Mall is North America’s largest indoor mall. It includes a huge Amusement Park, Ice Rink, Casino, Hotels, multiple Food Courts and a Restaurant Row, Water Wave Park, Movie Theatres and an IMAX Theatre, two Miniature Golf Courses, a Submarine Ride, a Sea Lion Show, and much more. This is not a joke.

We spent eight hours there, most of it just walking. It felt so good to move after six days of travel and after a few weeks of curtailed exercise in Fairbanks when it got too cold to go outside and continue our walking routine. We also took in a movie and had dinner before heading back to camp. The West Edmonton Mall makes for a nice rest stop.

Day 7 Pics

[Dave_Pete]

CAPTAIN’S LOG - DAY 6

North Star Date: 2/2/2013
Location or Route: Dawson Creek, BC to Edmonton, AB.
Travel Miles: 367 (1831 - Cumulative)
Weather Conditions: Overcast with light to moderate snowfall on and off all day. Sun occasionally visible. Moderate snow and poor visibilities right at Edmonton on the way from the grocery store to the RV Park.
Road Conditions: Overnight snowfall accumulations of 2”-3”. Most of the route was bare pavement with occasional fresh snow, slush and ice. Occasional ground blizzards by tractor trailers and other vehicles.
Animals Observed: One huge manmade beaver in the town of Beaverlodge, AB, and one Sasquatch-like man crossing the road in Dawson Creek.

6:00 AM (-4F/-20C)

Woke up to the sounds of Sonny and Cher singing “I got You Babe” on the hotel clock radio. The song ended and two DJs came on to discuss the upcoming day. I laid there with my eyes closed - just sort of half listening.

“Okay campers, rise and shine and don’t forget your booties ‘cause it’s cold out there today.”

“It’s cold out there everyday, what is this Miami Beach?”

“Not hardly, and you know you can expect hazardous travel later today, you know with that blizzard thing!”

“That blizzard thing, well - here’s the report. The National Weather Service is calling for a big blizzard thing.”

“Yes they are, but you know there’s another reason why today’s especially exciting.”

“Especially cold.”

“Especially cold, oh okay, but the big question on everybody’s lips…”

“Yeah their chapped lips.”

“On their chapped lips, do you think Phil’s gonna come out and see his shadow?”

“Punxsutawney Phil!”

“That’s right woodchuck-chuckers…”

“It’s Groundhog Day! Get up and check that hog out there.”

My eyes flew open, “Groundhog day?! What the?” and I glanced over to Ruth’s side of the bed – Oh thank goodness, she was still there; I wasn’t all alone; for just a minute there I thought…

I nudged her and she rolled over and smiled at me - but it wasn’t her! It was that librarian lady in Ghost Busters!

I screamed, “Who are you and what have you done with Ruth?” She just put a finger to her lips and went “Shhhhhhh”.

I cried , “Where’s Ruth?” and she just looked at me. Then she turned into the most hideous monster I’ve ever seen and came rushing at me like she was going to kill me!

I ducked under the covers and began muttering to nobody in particular, “I’ll never make fun of Dan Aykroyd again, I’ll never make fun of Dan Aykroyd again, or any of the original cast members. I’m sorry Bill Murray, I should have credited you sooner with the phrase ‘so we’ve got that going for us – which is good’.” The universe seemingly appeased, everything got all quiet.

I slowly lowered the covers. Ruth was staring me dead in the eye and demanded, “What is WRONG with you?” Swinging her legs off the side of the bed, she stood and strode toward the bathroom, entered and closed the door on me. I got out of bed, walked to the window. As expected it was still snowing. Another day just like yesterday.

11:11 AM (0F/-18C)

So here we are at Dawson Creek, British Columbia - Mile “0” of the Alaska Highway.

During World War II, the United States shipped war planes to Russia along this route, through Alaska over to Nome and across the Bering Sea, for the Ruskies to use in fighting Hitler on the eastern front of the war; it was called the “Lend-Lease Program”.

After Japan attacked the United States at Pearl Harbor, and then at Atta, a tiny native community at the end of the Aleutian Island chain of Alaska in the little remembered “1000 Mile War”, and threatened to come all the way into mainland Alaska, the US realized they had inadequate defenses in place for our 49th state.

It was then that the US Army, with approval from Congress and President Roosevelt, and of course Canada, decided to build a road from Dawson Creek to Delta Junction, which would connect to Alaska Highway 2, currently in place between Valdez and Fairbanks. It was called the Alaska Highway, also know as the ALCAN.

The stoic World War II era Army Corps of Engineers and soldiers that cut this road out of wilderness swamp, much of it done during winter months under similar conditions to what we have joked about, make me shake my head in disbelief and amazement at what humans can do.

As we laugh and have fun, here in the early 21st Century, let us never forget what those who came before have done to allow the amazing lives we lead. All our luxuries, all our rights, all our freedoms are not made available as a matter of course; they are hard fought against those who would enslave us for their own selfish reasons.

Never forget, and don’t easily give up your freedoms for promised security. Stay self-sufficient; depend on your selves and your families and others in your local communities. Don’t become too specialized with the resultant dependency on others.

Honor our fighting warriors of yesterdays past, and of today. And while you’re at it, give a word of thanks to others in our service industries: a teacher, a cop, a fireman, that waitress.

12:11 PM (0F/-18C)

East of Dawson Creek; roads turning good; highway speeds up to 55 mph; sun dimly visible through the overcast. The Nitty Gritty Dirt Band makes for some good road music.

12:26 PM (2F/-17C)

Just left Beaverlodge and saw the groundhog (actually a huge manmade beaver alongside the highway with these big teeth)! Did NOT see a shadow – the sun was back behind a heavier overcast – spring should be right around the corner. So we got that going for us - which is good.

Just east of Beaverlodge the highway divided with two lanes in either direction. Highway speeds are now up to 110 (that’s in kilometers per hour, which is Canadian for 68 mph). “Barbie’s Merry Christmas” makes for some good road music.

2:22 PM (5F/-15C)

We’re back on the map! The GPS map! Out of the wilderness and into civilization; now we know how Moses and the children of Israel felt! My long lost mapping software female navigator SAL (Search and Locate) spoke up and said, “What are you doing Dave?” I said, “Hello SAL, it’s nice to have you back. Can you tell me how to get to Edmonton please?” The Rolling Stones makes for some good road music.

3:11 PM (7F/-14C)

131 miles to Edmonton. Called ahead and set up reservations with “Glowing Embers RV Park” on the western outskirts, and only eight minutes from the West Edmonton Mall, largest Mall in North America. We’ll camp tonight and maybe the next night, and take a day off from the road. Maybe go Christmas shopping at the mall!

5:43 PM (4F/-15C)

We stopped at a grocery store and picked up some fresh produce, some bread and a broiler chicken at the deli. It’s snowing pretty heavy. Visibility is reduced and there is now more than one road to drive. It’s good to have mapping software. “SAL, show us the way to the RV Park”. “Yes Master”. I like that girl. Ruth followed behind her “Bubba with the big white trailer.”

7:11 PM (0F/-18C)

We’re tucked away all nice and cozy in the camper. We got plugged in, enjoyed a nice meal; it’s nice to be back with our old friend. The furnace is working great! It must have just been choking on the extremely cold temperatures. We were able to check the plastic windows and we did find some damage. We’ll make a full appraisal when the weather further improves.

I had to use the dustpan to shovel out some snow on the top bunk in the right-front corner where it had blown in through the cracked plastic window. I had left the canvas walls unzipped when we packed it down at Talbot Arm that night of the monster attack. I guess I was thinking of evaporating moisture between the fabric and the window, or maybe I wasn’t thinking and just reacting to the mind-numbing cold of days gone by. Oh how we love those insulating curtains Ruth made. It sure cozies up this camper!

Day 6 Pics