changing old 120v wiring in 54 year old trailer

[mark_b_]

I am remodeling a 1964 Chinook towed travel trailer, kind of a rarity.
I want to swap out the old 110-120v wiring for some 10 gauge wiring, but cannot find a good resource for doing this online, YouTube, etc. I am particularly interested in knowing more about what kind of circuit box to put in; whether I can run smaller gauge wiring off of the 10 gauge for specific outlets and appliances, and so-forth.

Anyone able to point me in the direction of a good guide for this rehab issue?

[mark_b_]

OK see you there thanks

[drsteve]

mark b. wrote:
To all interested, I thank you for your help and suggestions on this rewiring project. I do now have it complete with a 120v side and a 12v side--all up and functioning well.

Next step: figuring out my propane floor heater and oven/stove. Should I start a new forum for that??

Yes, a new post will get more relevant answers than changing subjects on this old thread.

Good to hear the wiring part is done and working!

[mark_b_]

To all interested, I thank you for your help and suggestions on this rewiring project. I do now have it complete with a 120v side and a 12v side--all up and functioning well.

Next step: figuring out my propane floor heater and oven/stove. Should I start a new forum for that??

[mark_b_]

OK, great insights....I think I can use the 14 GA I am using for the rest of the electric in the trailer...Thanks!!

[DrewE]

I have never heard of 6-8 gauge wiring for an RV water pump. I have not heard of everything by a long shot, granted, so they may exist, but are not typical. My water pump circuit has a 15A fuse and I think 14 gauge wire.

[westend]

mark b. wrote:
That's awesome...it had seemed from my reading that even 6-8 gauge wire was needed for a water pump..but not sooo?

IIRC, there is a single, larger wire on a separate circuit leading out of the converter for the water pump. It could be AWG 10 or AWG 12. A larger wire isn't needed in my case since I have a pressure tank and the "water pump" is a small compressor. I'd bet it doesn't draw over 5 A. You could check specifications on supply pumps and see how large a wire is needed.

The Shur-flo pump for a spray tank on my lawn tractor is connected with 14 AWG. Modern water supply pumps for RV's are very similar but checking specs is the best practice.

[mark_b_]

That's awesome...it had seemed from my reading that even 6-8 gauge wire was needed for a water pump..but not sooo?

[westend]

I rewired my '71 Starcraft, both 120 VAC and 12V DC. I used a 75 amp load center I found on sale at Home Depot for the 120V and my old PD converter had fused break-outs for 12V. Since I now have solar charging and am always inverting 12V, I have a pretty sophisticated distribution panel with connections to two battery banks. The distro panel has (3) master disconnect switches to separate service to 12V devices and choice of battery bank. I used stranded 14 awg for all 12V power. All my lights are LED and there are a few power ports around the bunks, furnace, etc. I did run a discrete 12V (-) phase wire to all 12V devices. 12V troubleshooting can be difficult enough without worrying about loss of ground continuity. The separate (-) phase wire eliminates that.
Good luck on your electrical work!

[mark_b_]

Excellent pointers thanks Drew! Should a water pump have a dedicated line to battery? What gauge wire would you use for lighting circuits vs water pump?

[DrewE]

The trailer frame certainly can be the 12V negative return, as for a car. It's also reasonable to run all the returns to the 12V panel (or some other convenient place) and thence back to the battery. In any case, the 12V negative should be bonded to the trailer frame, even if it's not the main return path.

Typical 12V wiring would be a circuit breaker or fuse close to the battery positive connection (within 18" is the standard, I think), then a relatively heavy connection to the 12V distribution panel via a disconnect switch. Most often the converter is also connected at the distribution panel, but it's okay and not uncommon to connect it elsewhere if that seems more convenient. From the 12V distribution panel, fuses protect the individual circuits.

There are a few things that have dedicated connections to the battery or to a buss bar or similar in that vicinity. Any unusually high draw device, such as a generator starter or sizable inverter, would not go through the distribution panel. The breakaway brake system for the trailer should also be wired directly so it can't be accidentally disabled.

[mark_b_]

Hey guys thanks for all your helpful suggestions. I do have the 1964 Chinook now wired for 120V using the PD 4045. The AC side was straightforward for me, especially after the tidbits I got here, and I started with that. I have 3 20amp circuits and 2 15 amp circuits; 30 amp supply to bring the power in.

Now I am officially stumped on the 12V side. Can I string LEDs on a positive power line and then use the metal frame underneath the trailer for ground? I was thinking of taking the negative pole of the 12v side and grounding it on the frame, then linking other grounds from lights ultimately to the frame as well. I have really searched YouTube and other online resources and cannot get a clear idea about this. Suggestions welcomed, thanks!

[ndrorder]

Any recently wired RV, should be wired in a way that mimics the wiring in your house. Take a look at the breaker or fuse box in your house. Power comes in through a central line. It goes into main disconnect (breaker or fuse) sized to protect the central line in. Breakers or fuses are installed for various circuits through out the house. Estimates for how much power each circuit might need drives the size of wire run through that circuit. The distribution breakers or fuses are sized to protect the wire in those circuits.

If you feel it is OK to just run a line into the TT and tap into it in various locations around the TT, you are heading down a dangerous path.

Finding a quick read about basic household electrical on the web or at the library might be helpful.

[theoldwizard1]

time2roll wrote:
I would use stranded marine tinned wire for 12v connections.

https://www.genuinedealz.com

GenuinedealZ also has 10 gauge triple 120VAC boat wire. This is more expensive than NM-B (Romex) but it is stranded and much easier to work with.

[theoldwizard1]

If you insist on 10 gauge, you can get it cut to length at Wire and Cable Your Way