I finally got tired enough of the piezoelectric igniter on my Atwood stovetop that I decided to replace it with a battery-powered igniter unit. You know what Iโm talking about. You twist the knob; bam, bam, bam . . . bam, bam, bam and sometimes the burner lights and sometimes not.:M
I removed the old igniter and took some measurement to determine the available real estate. I found a replacement electronic igniter for Charbroil grills from Home Depot for $30 that looked promising.
The hole for the original igniter was 5/8โ and the new one requires 7/8โ. If you have a unibit step drill, that would work nice. But since I donโt and didnโt want to spend the $$ I used a stone grinder bit and โhoggedโ the hole out to 7/8. You need to โcheatโ the hole slightly up and to the left for a little more clearance for the igniter.
Pull the wires off the old igniter and slide them on to the new, order does not matter. Even though the old igniter has round pins and the new has spade pins, the terminals slide on with a tight fit and work fine. Due to the higher voltage of this unit I saw occasional flashover between the terminals when it was activated. I solved that by adding a second layer of heat shrink over the terminals.
The new igniter has four terminals and since the stovetop only has three burners, that left one to add a sparker for the oven pilot light. The new unit comes with spare 37โ and 32โ igniter wires. I joined the two together and they were long enough to reach across the stovetop, and follow the oven control plumbing down into the oven. The longer wire looks like it has a high-temp coating, but I also wrapped the part that is actually in the oven with high-temp fiberglass tape. I needed a sparker so I removed the one from my gas grill side burner, which I never use anyway. After removing the burner assembly from the oven, I โguesstimatedโ the location for the sparker and drilled a 7/16โ hole in the pilot support plate. Once the sparker was in place, I reinstalled the burner assembly. The sparker electrode had to be โtweakedโ slightly to get a reliable spark to the outlet end of the pilot light tube.
If you donโt add the oven igniter, you need to install one of the supplied wires on the fourth terminal and coil and stow the wire so that it wonโt short to the stove. If you donโt do this, the bare terminal on the igniter will flashover to the others.
After installing the single AA battery and turning on the gas, it was time for a test run.
Aaaahh . . . The stovetop burners light almost instantly, quietly and reliably. The electronic ignition sparks about six times per second for as long as you hold the button as opposed to three sparks per half-revolution of the knob on the old one.
The oven pilot lights nicely. Iโve found that if you turn the oven knob to โpilotโ and hold it for about 10 seconds and then push the igniter button, it will light almost instantly. I was a little concerned about the wire in the oven, so I heated the oven to 500 degrees for a test. Everything looks good and smoke check passed.
DW is HAPPY, and you know what that means . . .:B
Before
Old Piezoelectric Igniter
New Electronic Igniter
Oven Pilot Light Sparker Installation
After
I removed the old igniter and took some measurement to determine the available real estate. I found a replacement electronic igniter for Charbroil grills from Home Depot for $30 that looked promising.
The hole for the original igniter was 5/8โ and the new one requires 7/8โ. If you have a unibit step drill, that would work nice. But since I donโt and didnโt want to spend the $$ I used a stone grinder bit and โhoggedโ the hole out to 7/8. You need to โcheatโ the hole slightly up and to the left for a little more clearance for the igniter.
Pull the wires off the old igniter and slide them on to the new, order does not matter. Even though the old igniter has round pins and the new has spade pins, the terminals slide on with a tight fit and work fine. Due to the higher voltage of this unit I saw occasional flashover between the terminals when it was activated. I solved that by adding a second layer of heat shrink over the terminals.
The new igniter has four terminals and since the stovetop only has three burners, that left one to add a sparker for the oven pilot light. The new unit comes with spare 37โ and 32โ igniter wires. I joined the two together and they were long enough to reach across the stovetop, and follow the oven control plumbing down into the oven. The longer wire looks like it has a high-temp coating, but I also wrapped the part that is actually in the oven with high-temp fiberglass tape. I needed a sparker so I removed the one from my gas grill side burner, which I never use anyway. After removing the burner assembly from the oven, I โguesstimatedโ the location for the sparker and drilled a 7/16โ hole in the pilot support plate. Once the sparker was in place, I reinstalled the burner assembly. The sparker electrode had to be โtweakedโ slightly to get a reliable spark to the outlet end of the pilot light tube.
If you donโt add the oven igniter, you need to install one of the supplied wires on the fourth terminal and coil and stow the wire so that it wonโt short to the stove. If you donโt do this, the bare terminal on the igniter will flashover to the others.
After installing the single AA battery and turning on the gas, it was time for a test run.
Aaaahh . . . The stovetop burners light almost instantly, quietly and reliably. The electronic ignition sparks about six times per second for as long as you hold the button as opposed to three sparks per half-revolution of the knob on the old one.
The oven pilot lights nicely. Iโve found that if you turn the oven knob to โpilotโ and hold it for about 10 seconds and then push the igniter button, it will light almost instantly. I was a little concerned about the wire in the oven, so I heated the oven to 500 degrees for a test. Everything looks good and smoke check passed.
DW is HAPPY, and you know what that means . . .:B
Before
Old Piezoelectric Igniter
New Electronic Igniter
Oven Pilot Light Sparker Installation
After
