I just added a 50 amp supply to my trailer

[NanciL]

We have a brand new 40 foot long Forest River trailer that only has a thirty amp 120 volt supply.
It has a 15,000 BTU AC unit and a residential refrigerator. Three different times the 30 amp breaker would pop and I couldn't quite figure out why
Then after doing some figuring I found out that if the AC unit came on at the exact same time the refrigerator's compressor came on and at the same time the electric water heater was on. the In-rush current was way over the limit of the 30 amp breaker, (they all could run together if they had come on at different times, but not all at once)
With that said; I Left the 30 amp supply and panel completely alone but added a 100 amp 220 volt panel and new 50 amp cord and plug. I changed the main 100 amp 2 p0le breaker out to a 50 amp one.
Then I disconnected the air conditioning feed cable from the 30 amp panel and rerouted it via a junction box to a new 20 amp single pole breaker in the new panel.
I now have the problem solved and have plenty of capacity for a future washer and dryer if I want.
Total cost for the entire project materials was less than $150 and the panel even came with a 2 pole 30 amp breaker, (think clothes dryer) and two 20 amp single pole breakers.

If they can't get it right at the factory we need to do it ourselves !

jackL

[NanciL]

Here are some pictures





Jack L

[LarryJM]

beemerphile1 wrote:

LarryJM wrote:
...install a dual 30A system for a total of 60A over a true 50A system....

Not sure what you are saying or if you know this, a 50a RV system is actually a total of 100a. You have two 30a legs while a 50a system has two 50a legs.

My 30A dual system has two 30A cords each feeding 30A subpanels (the original one and a second I installed). The two cords are feed via a dual 30A dogbone with a 50A plug. I'm well aware of what a 50A system is and that's why I called it a "TRUE 50A" since that as you said gives you a total of 100A of 110V.

My mod required ZERO mods to the existing OEM electrical system and I was able to keep my 30A PI EMS which I already had and I simply added a second 30A subpanel that feeds two 15A outlets which I added in the kitchen/entertainment area that are used for things like space heaters, coffee pots and our convection/toaster oven ... i.e. resistive only ckts where EMS protection is not so critical.

Larry

[beemerphile1]

LarryJM wrote:
...install a dual 30A system for a total of 60A over a true 50A system....

Not sure what you are saying or if you know this, a 50a RV system is actually a total of 100a. You have two 30a legs while a 50a system has two 50a legs.

[NanciL]

Lantley wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:
Good job. It is insane and the pinnacle of cheapness for an RV manufacturer to install 30a service on an RV of that size.

I don't blame the manufacturer the buyer needs to know what they are getting.
While I am a 50 amp guy there are plenty that prefer 30 amps.
In the OP's case he just needed to put the water heater on LP to resolve his issue.
A single AC rig does not have to have 50 amps.

So you don't blame the manufacturer for miscalculating and a poor design? The water heater is both electric and propane, but with just the 30 amp, the trailer owner has no choice except to use propane or pop the breaker.

You admit that your are a "50 amp guy" but since now I am a 80 amp one, you don't like it.

Jack L

[time2roll]

40' and a single air unit is just as crazy. 50a probably mandatory with dual air or W/D option.

[westend]

LarryJM wrote:

TNGW1500SE wrote:
Did the same thing in my (sold now) TT. Worked great. Also ran and outlet off the "new phase" for an electric heater. Never tripped a breaker again.

The wire is what cost the most.

Yea the cost of the 50A cable and Trailer end connection is what drove me to install a dual 30A system for a total of 60A over a true 50A system. The cost of just a 50A Marinco type shore power cord would come close to costing $150 and with the Trailer end drives just the cost of the stuff external to the trailer in excess of $150. I'm sure you could go cheap on the 50A cord, but then you have the issue of messing with that 2x6 board in colder weather not to mention the weight.

I'm also waiting for pics to see exactly what was installed.

Larry

Neat way you dealt with that.
When I restored my Starcraft, I went with a 50 amp service. The biggest cost was the Marinco locking cable entry and the Marinco cord. You are low on your estimate of this cost. Retail pricing is probably $70 for the cord entry and $225 for a Marinco cord. I bought the entry socket on Ebay for less and got lucky at CW, they had a clearance and with my new card discount, I paid less than $90 for a Marinco cord. I researched making a cord and the price of just the wire is above $100.

When you need more power, a couple of $$$ and you're done forever with upgrading seems like a good solution. IMO, most travel trailers should have a 50 amp service. Most are used as CG princesses and 50 amp pedestals are usually the de rigueur hookup.

[LarryJM]

TNGW1500SE wrote:
Did the same thing in my (sold now) TT. Worked great. Also ran and outlet off the "new phase" for an electric heater. Never tripped a breaker again.

The wire is what cost the most.

Yea the cost of the 50A cable and Trailer end connection is what drove me to install a dual 30A system for a total of 60A over a true 50A system. The cost of just a 50A Marinco type shore power cord would come close to costing $150 and with the Trailer end drives just the cost of the stuff external to the trailer in excess of $150. I'm sure you could go cheap on the 50A cord, but then you have the issue of messing with that 2x6 board in colder weather not to mention the weight.

I'm also waiting for pics to see exactly what was installed.

Larry

[BarneyS]

NanciL wrote:

rhagfo wrote:
Would love to see a picture or two of the panel install. Sounds like a great upgrade, just many of us don't the space for a 100 amp panel.

I don't know how to post pictures.

Snip...

I'll see if my wife can take a few pictures and figure out how to post them.

Jack L

Take a look at this thread stuck at the top of this forum. It makes picture posting so simple that even a cave man could do it! 🙂
Barney

[Cummins12V98]

"but a 30 amp in a 40' rig is insane."

That's a "what were they thinkin"

[rhagfo]

Lantley wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:
Good job. It is insane and the pinnacle of cheapness for an RV manufacturer to install 30a service on an RV of that size.

I don't blame the manufacturer the buyer needs to know what they are getting.
While I am a 50 amp guy there are plenty that prefer 30 amps.
In the OP's case he just needed to put the water heater on LP to resolve his issue.
A single AC rig does not have to have 50 amps.

Some prefer 30 amps for ease of dealing with the cable. I see it as an option in a 27' rig, but a 30 amp in a 40' rig is insane.

The power cable is really a non-issue if one gets an SO cable, I carry 40' in a 3 gal. bucket.

[Lantley]

beemerphile1 wrote:
Good job. It is insane and the pinnacle of cheapness for an RV manufacturer to install 30a service on an RV of that size.

I don't blame the manufacturer the buyer needs to know what they are getting.
While I am a 50 amp guy there are plenty that prefer 30 amps.
In the OP's case he just needed to put the water heater on LP to resolve his issue.
A single AC rig does not have to have 50 amps.

[beemerphile1]

Good job. It is insane and the pinnacle of cheapness for an RV manufacturer to install 30a service on an RV of that size.

[NanciL]

rhagfo wrote:
Would love to see a picture or two of the panel install. Sounds like a great upgrade, just many of us don't the space for a 100 amp panel.

I don't know how to post pictures.

The 100 Amp panel is only about 15" x 15"x 4". I mounted it in the closet at the end of our trailer which also is a storage compartment that opens from the outside. This made a neat installation for the feed cable since I was able to bring it outside right next to the existing 30 amp cable. I installed a new cable entry port right next to the 30 amp one.

I'll see if my wife can take a few pictures and figure out how to post them.

Jack L

[time2roll]

I put the water on propane if using the air or a space heater.