New roof on my 24 ft. Wildernes

[gaucho10]

Hello everyone. This is my first post and hope someone can help me. I am actually working backwards here since I have already installed part of my roof but now I am asking the questions....So here goes...

I had roof damage so I removed the old, thin rubber liner. I then removed all the rotted 1/8" luan and all the insulation.

I then installed all new insulation and I laminated (2) 1/4" layers of plywood. I screwed the plywood directly to the roof ribs/rafters. Now I have a strong roof that I can actually walk on. I am not concerned with the extra weight in this case.

I have purchased a kit of 60 mill white on black EPDM that I will install as soon as it arrives, hopefully this weekend.

As I was removing the old rubber roof I noticed that the luan joints were covered with plastic sheetrock tape. I also noticed that the roof edges had what appeared to be duct tape to protect the old liner.

Now for my questions:

1. Should I install the tape on all areas where the screws are located, namely over the rafters? Or would it be ok to just tape the joints of the plywood. Rafters are approximately every 12", plywood joints every 48".

2. Did I secure the plywood with too many screws? I placed screws approximately every 10" on center and around 6" along the sides.

3. Will the extra screws affect the strength of the roof since the trailer WILL FLEX during travel?

4. Should I countersink all the screws and use a filler or just lay the glue and liner? At present the screws are flush with the surface.

[Weldon]

Sounds good..love that eternabond tape.

[gaucho10]

I did get it under the front aluminum but I had to play with the aluminum edges because now the roof is 1/2" thick and previously it was only 1/8" thick. I have already secured the aluminum edge with butyl tape and screws. After I finish the rest of the aluminum I will use ETERNABOND tape to make sure all gaps are sealed.

[Weldon]

Gaucho10, can you get the EPDM un der the front cap? That is where I made my mistake. Does sound like you have it all under control...give yourself a pat on the back.

[RVcircus]

gaucho10 wrote:
RVcircus, Why are you not happy with one of the seams?

The one seam seems like the tape came loose from the plywood after the glue dried. I don't know exactly what happened, but I don't like it. It may not be related to the tape at all, but that's my guess for now.

[gaucho10]

path1,

I went to that DICOR website and I think I am on the right track. So far everything I did appears to be "by the book", unknowingly of course. 1/2" plywood is good, screws are good and tape is good. Thanks again...

[gaucho10]

RVcircus, Why are you not happy with one of the seams?

[RVcircus]

I'd skip taping the seams if they're tight. Just sand the seams and edges and use filler. I did my roof last week and I'm not happy with one of the seams I taped.

[gaucho10]

Thaks path1...

[westend]

westend, I will check on "organic filler". The only type of filler I know of is HD/Lowes wood filler which might be "oil base" which I understand is a no-no with EPDM.

Filler= Durham Water Putty
Mix a small batch at a time, it hardens quickly.

[path1]

https://www.dicorproducts.com/resources/installation/

This site answers some of your questions. Also some good vid's available.

I wouldn't "overbuild" to much but your probably going to make better than when manufacture built it anyways.

Flexibility does need to be taken into consideration with "wobbly boxes on wheels" but I don't see how what your doing will hurt or change anything.

(Edit part)On the roof installation link NOTICE what they call the front and rear termination pic.

The front is under and rear is over.

[gaucho10]

westend, I will check on "organic filler". The only type of filler I know of is HD/Lowes wood filler which might be "oil base" which I understand is a no-no with EPDM.

Weldon, I originally planned on using duct tape only around the perimeter of the roof and the sheetrock plastic tape on the joints. I removed all of the decking so the whole roof is new plywood and all level. The original 1/8" luan went under the front aluminum and was flush on the back. It has now been installed the same, only 3/8" higher (thicker). I don't see any problems with the extra 3/8" affecting my "plywood-aluminum-EPDM" installation. I have feathered the edges around the perimeter so there are no sharp edges of plywood but I still plan on using duct tape as extra protection.

[Weldon]

I would use duct tape on seams and screw heads. Your luan should be the same thickness as the old where it meets the ends. Did your old epdm go under the front and back ends? If yes then the thickness of luan needs to be the same in order to get the new epdm under the ends.

[westend]

The tape is installed so the EPDM will not be grabbed by a screw head or uneven seam when installing. If you're confident that all screw heads are countersunk, all seam edges are even, and your adhesive will hold the membrane in place, you don't have to tape anything.

If I was doing it, I'd use filler on the seams and screw locations. A small canister of organic filler is less than $5 and time involved on a 24' x 8' roof is less than 1/2 hour. Troweling the filler on will discover any screw heads protruding above the surface.

Your fastener schedule sounds right on.