โApr-25-2024 05:49 PM
New guy here. Thanks for the add to the forum!
I would like to increase ground clearance 2" to 4" on my 2020 26 foot Dune Sport toyhauler. We are finding we are scraping the rear frame or rear stabilizers when getting into boondocking camp spots, and even gas stations. I know the easy fix, often recommended would be a spring over conversion. But with my set up that will likely result in 5 to 6" of lift. I would prefer to not go that high. Below are the options I've researched, along with my observations questions or concerns on each.
Here's the current set up:
Tandem 5200 lb Lippert axles with 4 leaf leaf springs which are 2600 lb capacity each. GVRW of the trailer is 10,400 lbs. The spring hangers are all the "boot" style hangers, front center and rear hangers. (Ill attach a picture of the hangers as they will be a specific topic of discussion)
โApr-26-2024 05:18 AM
does your trailer already have a suspension upgrade like the MORyde CRE3000 or equivalant, that will usaly gain you about 2" of lift while aloing you to tune/align your suspension properly.
โApr-26-2024 09:57 AM
No, I do not. I did look into that type of equalizer, thinking of intentionally using a taller than current.
From what i read online you needed to use one with very similar dimensions to current equalizer. If I used one two inches taller, to keep suspension geometry with all spring ends at equal height, I'd have to extend front and rear hangers 2". Oh, another bit I read was that changing center only would yield a ride height increase of 1/2 the height increase of the equalizer (2" taller equalizer = 1" increase in height due to outer ends remaining at same height)
As to the ability to align the suspension, I thought that would require the likes of the Lippert Correct Track ( which also can provide a lift) ? Unfortunately those are not compatible with my type of spring hangers. I called Lippert and confirmed that.
Have you used a taller equalizer leaving outer spring ends in current location? Perhaps that is viable.?
โApr-27-2024 05:14 AM
that might be the one I am thinking of, I may have just rememberd the wrong name. I have it on my 5th wheel and it has octagon pucks that are offset you can change to adjust the alignment. but ya it does add 2" of hight when you install it also.
not compatable.. hmm that sucks, so your left with fabracating new mount points or longer shackels (which I don't like myself) or makin g a 2 to 3" sub frame and dropping your suspension and putting that on the frame then remounting your suspension.. or an axel flip (easiest, but gives you more hight than you want) for me it would be easy, I would flip the axels and get the extra ground clearance, but on a toy hauler that could have implacations with the angle of the ramp and such..
โApr-25-2024 07:08 PM
Simplest would be what you suggest to flip the axles and then use the higher mounting hole. If I understand your concern, the side of the spring would rub against the hanger bracket...but from the picture, I can pretty much guarantee that's happening already as you go down the road, so the upper hole shouldn't make it any worse. On the positive side, being closer to the frame should make the hanger stronger against side to side forces.
But really once you go thru the hassle, I would just do the flip by itself and try it for a season. You can always change the mounting holes later.
Another option if there is enough room in the wheel wells is to mount bigger tires. You could probably pick up an inch or two that way with no other modifications.
If you want to throw money at the problem, you could add airbags with a remote air fill compressor connected into the cab. Any time you are worried about clearance, just pump up the bags then release once you are back on the highway.
โApr-26-2024 09:40 AM
No, it's not a concern of leaf spring contacting jnside of hanger, rather, it the shackle and equalizer hitting the hanger specifically center hanger. Take a look at these pictures, circled in red is where I already get some light contact. Hanger is about 4" wide at contact point and widens to 5" at the top. Moving to upper mount will shift it to an even wider point and more contact.
I already went one size larger on tires.
You're correct I could just do the spring over and not mess with changing spring mount locations.
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โApr-26-2024 10:01 AM
I would have to go check but on mine but I'm pretty sure the center bracket is shorter and squared off. The two outer ones have the angled cut.
You could cut of the angled one off and weld on a shorter square one.
โApr-26-2024 10:38 AM
If I can do this without welding on the frame, I'd prefer to. Another thought I had was to simply cut the existing angled hanger into a rectangular hanger. No welding involved other than spring perches onto the axle for the spring over.
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โApr-26-2024 10:43 AM
Actually, nothing rocket science about the hangers. I'm betting any moderately competent welding shop could bend you up some custom hangers that are 2-3 inches taller and weld them on. I would look at welding plates on the ends to stiffen them against side to side motion. Alternatively, weld heavy square tubing to the frame and then weld a stock hanger to the tubing.
This would allow you to specify the exact height you want to raise the trailer by and the rest of he suspension doesn't need to be changed out.
โApr-25-2024 06:32 PM
โApr-25-2024 06:28 PM
Oops...accidentally submitted post before I was done!
Options:
Spring over conversion
Possible taller than I'd prefer. But given that my spring hangers are made to be adjustable, could I do spring over, then move spring eyes and equalizer to upper hole. End result should be 3 to 4" of lift. But, as is, with equalizer in lower hole it can actually contact hanger along angled side as it gets wider. Upper hole will guarantee that will happen. Could I cut the boot hanger down to a more typical rectangular hanger to increase clearance?
Upgrade springs from 5200 lb to 6000 lb? How much higher would the heavier springs raise the trailer.?
Other options..?
Thanks Mike