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Power Armor Battery Box by Torklift International

CincyGus
Explorer II
Explorer II
A few months ago, I received a PM from someone on RV.net stating they were a representative of Torklift International. I had no idea who that was but the email went on to say, they were looking for experienced RV-ers who offer their help to others to be product evaluators.

So I did what most intelligent people do when they seem to be getting something to good too be true. I did a little research. I checked them out online and they have a website that has other products. I called the number and asked exactly what was involved and if I would be responsible for any costs (shipping or anything else).

They said no, I just needed to fill out an evaluator application and provide some info on my RV type, how often I RV, etc. but no credit card info, no charges to me of any type. And good to their word, about 3 weeks later, the Power Armor Battery box showed up on my door step.

Below is a review after installing it this afternoon.

First off, it's a beautiful battery box. I was sent a black powder coated aluminum diamond plate version measuring 27 1/4" x 7 15/16" x 12 7/8". This is the taller of the two sizes they have and suitable for larger batteries such as 6v or as in my case, a pair of group 29's.

Its quite simple in it's design but effective. It is a box with lips on the front and back of the box that a sliding flat lid slides onto from the sides. It has a hole in the middle front for a lock, a hole in the back side for the cables to run through, a few slots in the bottom for included battery straps to be run, a few pieces of aluminum angle for mounting along with self tapping screws, washers and a bit more hardware that might be needed specific to your install situation.

I started by removing my duel propane tanks, disconnecting my battery and removing it and the battery boxes. Slide the box in place, centered on the existing angle that held the battery boxes and drove a couple self tapping screws with washers through the inside into the angle below. Nice and secure. Replaced the battery, slide it to the curb side of the box and fished my old battery cables through the hole in the back of the box. I quickly came to realize, the cables were going to be too short, thanks to the total of 24" of cable Keystone left me to work with. No problem, quick trip to Pepboy's and I had a couple new, longer, 2 gauge cables and now actually have a red and black one so I don't have to remember RV electrical code every time I disconnect and clean my battery connections ๐Ÿ˜‰

Disconnected the old, replaced with the new cables, fished them in again and connected. Bag tied the slack in the new cables, installed the lid and put the lock on it and done. Took all of about an hour of work from start to finish which included the removal and reinstall of the propane tanks.

Now for some pictures.


The finished Product!




The lid and the lips it slides across.




A better look at the lid and how it is angled under to create a secure hold on the lips.



I placed a piece of the angle they give you across the top to demonstrate the clearance between the battery terminals and the top since it is made of aluminum. Plenty of room, even with my rather tall group 29 battery.



A top shot. The edge of the group 29 battery I have is right next to the hole in the middle of the battery box. I believe there would be room for another group 29 next to it but it will be very close and something I measure before I buy a second one. Mine is just two years old and frankly, it lasts long enough for us so I don't need a second group 29 right now. I'll wait till it dies and can get either 2 6v or replace with two group 29 or 27's, whichever fit.

Here are some pros/cons:

PRO's

Much better looking than the plastic battery boxes we are all used to using.

Definitely a more secure solution if battery theft is a issue for you (maybe off site storage or a little too much crime in the area you store your RV).You know what they say, you make it hard for a criminal, they will move on to a easier mark.

Very easy install. All parts are included for multiple applications. In my case, it fit beautifully in the existing two pieces of angle already on the trailer. If it hadn't, two pieces of angle were included including mounting hardware for that and the self tapping screws to mount eh battery box to it. I can't think of anything they left out that I would have needed on any install.

Weight! I was concerned about how much weight this would add to my trailers tongue weight but being aluminum, it is very light.

CON's

No Con's at this point as I have just installed but I'll update this post or answer PM's if anyone shoots me one asking down the road.

If your concerned about battery security, this looks like a well designed, light weight solution that adds a bit of style to your RV. Will also be a good fit for those just looking for some light weight, lockable storage. It appears these are sold through dealers if you go to their website. Priced between $199-$282 depending on what style (brushed Aluminum or black powder coat) and size (shorter for group 24-27 batteries, taller for 6v and group 29 and up).
2015 GMC 2500 Denali Crewcab 4x4
2019 Forest River Wolfpack 23pack15

Hope your travels are safe and the friendships made camping are lasting.
13 REPLIES 13

CincyGus
Explorer II
Explorer II
BarneyS wrote:
ryhed wrote:
Needs another lock on the other side. crowsfoot prybar against your trailer and the box is open.

That box is pretty stout. I think the trailer would give first. Besides, the lock only keeps honest people honest. A determined thief is going to get the batteries no matter what a person does. I would think they would just move on to easier pickins.

I agree with you wintersun. I think I will e-mail them with that suggestion.
Barney


Exactly. The box is not designed to be determined theif proof. It would have to be steel and much heavier to be closer to doing that. It is designed to make it very inconvienient and more time consuming to steal my batteries (or whatever you decide to store in it) than plastic battery boxes or normal storage units. A determined thief can also get inside your trailer with a crow bar and steal much lighter, easier to sell and more valuable items like your TV, Microwave, dvd's, radio, cash or whatever else you have laying around.
2015 GMC 2500 Denali Crewcab 4x4
2019 Forest River Wolfpack 23pack15

Hope your travels are safe and the friendships made camping are lasting.

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
ryhed wrote:
Needs another lock on the other side. crowsfoot prybar against your trailer and the box is open.

That box is pretty stout. I think the trailer would give first. Besides, the lock only keeps honest people honest. A determined thief is going to get the batteries no matter what a person does. I would think they would just move on to easier pickins.

I agree with you wintersun. I think I will e-mail them with that suggestion.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

wintersun
Explorer II
Explorer II
Odd that Torklift did not make the box long enough for two group 31 batteries at 26" as the height and depth dimensions could be unchanged.

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
You can see it in the bottom picture that I posted.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

JN_B
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
Thanks for posting, Gus. Barney, too, for the pictures. I, too, got one of the Torklift boxes. I haven't mounted mine yet but my initial impression is that it is a well made box for the purpose. Two features that stand out are the sliding top and the integrated lock.

For JN B--the cable access hole in the back of the box has a large plastic grommet, no worries.


I assumed so.. Just didn't see it in any of the pictures.
2014 Ford F-150 XLT, HD Payload, Max Trailer
2010 K-Z Spree 318BHS

ryhed
Explorer
Explorer
Needs another lock on the other side. crowsfoot prybar against your trailer and the box is open.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for posting, Gus. Barney, too, for the pictures. I, too, got one of the Torklift boxes. I haven't mounted mine yet but my initial impression is that it is a well made box for the purpose. Two features that stand out are the sliding top and the integrated lock.

For JN B--the cable access hole in the back of the box has a large plastic grommet, no worries.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

JN_B
Explorer
Explorer
Looks like a decent box..

My only comment.. Where are the grommets?
2014 Ford F-150 XLT, HD Payload, Max Trailer
2010 K-Z Spree 318BHS

bigcitypopo
Explorer
Explorer
I have seen these in my local RV shop. kind of expensive.. I had lock brackets put over my boxes. to secure... will the off gassing of the batteries degrade the finish on the box, causing holes... if battery acid will wreck havoc on support arms in vehicles... I'd be concerned in there too.

I honestly would like to see this compartment built into the trailer.. a cutout in the tonge area, pull out tray, sealed from interior but vented outside... so you could put 4 batteries... whatever flavor... if they can do it with 2 - 30lb propane cylinders... batteries should be easy
2014 RAM 2500 BigHorn CrewCab 4x2 ShortBox, 6.7L CTD
2014 Keystone Springdale 294bhssrwe - Hensley Arrow!
The best wife, 2 kids and a bunch of fun

CincyGus
Explorer II
Explorer II
BarneyS wrote:
jmckelvy wrote:
On a real bad bump or something similar, what keeps the battery from "bouncing" vertically enough to briefly hit the metal lid and short the + and - terminals together?

There is a strap that goes over the battery to hold it in place. He didn't have his installed in the picture. You can see the slots in the bottom of the box where the straps go through.
Barney


Correct!
2015 GMC 2500 Denali Crewcab 4x4
2019 Forest River Wolfpack 23pack15

Hope your travels are safe and the friendships made camping are lasting.

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
jmckelvy wrote:
On a real bad bump or something similar, what keeps the battery from "bouncing" vertically enough to briefly hit the metal lid and short the + and - terminals together?

There is a strap that goes over the battery to hold it in place. He didn't have his installed in the picture. You can see the slots in the bottom of the box where the straps go through.
Barney
Here is mine.



2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

jmckelvy
Explorer
Explorer
On a real bad bump or something similar, what keeps the battery from "bouncing" vertically enough to briefly hit the metal lid and short the + and - terminals together?
06 RAM 3500,Dually,CTD,Auto(ATS Stage 1),QC,4X4,PacBrake,Spyntec Freespin Hubs,60 Gal Titan Tank,EFI Live, Line-X,Torklifts and SuperHitch,Fastguns
2013 Arctic Fox 990, 275 Watts Solar, 2 Grp 31 AGMs
US Navy 1964-1968, 2-Tour Vietnam Vet

bobsallyh
Explorer II
Explorer II
First thing I'd do is get a battery mat for the bottom of the box.